I have collected a set of matching NOS 911 gauges that match the style of my 914 gauges for a Getty dash conversion. These are the gauges that I have:
Quartz clock (Looks NOS)...works perfectly
914 spedo
914 tach
911 oil temp/oil pressure (NOS)
911 fuel lever/oil level (NOS)

I'm trying to decide what to do with the "oil level" insert--I see no need for this one. I want to replace it with one of the following gauges. I don't want a console in my project car. The motor will be a stock 2.0 or 1.8 with bolt ons like stainless , webers, etc. Nothing fancy.

• Volt gauge
• CHT gauge
• EGT gauge

What would you put in that one slot? Is that something I can do being a DYI guy or do I need to send it to North Hollywood?
Your input is apprectiated?

I do a voltmeter conversion for this gauge, I can put any 90 degree sweep VDO gauge in there. Prices start at $100 depending on the gauge I re-print the face as well with the correct nomenclature for the type of gauge. You can do it yourself as well, but you won't have the proper fonts or face.
I am slso working on a gauge to replace the 911 clock with 2 of the following:
volt
CHT
air/fuel

Mark

It looks like you already have Oil Pressure and Oil Temp, so CHT would be the way to go.

I would be tempted to lose the clock, and get another dual gauge for that spot. Then you could add all three gauges.

CHT is good, if there is no console or other voltmeter, but if not, I vote for volts.

Even though I too first thought of a voltmeter, I'm not to sure why many of you also think that it would be beneficial more so than another gauge, i.e. CHT. If one day your 914 doesn't start, after getting it started, would you just throw an eternal volt meter to see if the system is charging etc and be done with it? It's either working or not?

On the other hand, if it was a FI motor, voltage can play a contributing factor to FI problems and I could see a voltmeter more important.

Am I all wet here????

PS...I like the 911 quartz clocks, although they aren not an important gauge either.

I wouldn't bother with an EGT on a n/a engine. The voltmeter is proll'y what I'd go with. The CHT usually runs at 300 to 350 deg. f, providing that all of your flaps, t-stat, and oe oil cooler are operating well. If you have a front mount oil cooler, I wouldn't worry about the cht gauge.
My $ .02
Marty

You'll probably need to change out the 911 fuel gauge with a 914 one, since they don't read the same, so sending to N Hollywood to put in the 2nd gauge would be a good idea.

Mark...I 've had several people tell me the 911 fuel gauge will work? Are you saying it won't read accurately? I know the 911 insert is a diff physical size than the 914 insert. Do you modify the insert to make it fit the hole?

Thanks

I've been *told* that they'll read different. Call N Hollywood & ask, I'm sure they'll know.

The 911 fuel level gauge will work and read reasonably close to correct at the full mark, but the linearity of the gauge movement and the marks on the gauge aren't anywhere near the same as on the 914 unit, so the other marks don't read correctly. The way it's off, it looks like you're getting great mileage at first, then the indicated level drops rapidly toward empty. The reserve warning light can come on when the gauge still says there's nearly 1/4 tank left! The stock 914 movement also moves the opposite direction (counterclockwise vs clockwise) compared to the 911 gauge, so you'd need a custom face anyway if you swapped the movements. North Hollywood Speedometer can definitely make custom gauge faces, and can sell you a movement matched to the 914 sender, and with better linearity, that moves in the same direction as the 911 one. If you're particular about accuracy, however, be aware that the standard in the gauge world is apparently to calibrate them for accuracy at two points, like 1/4 and 3/4, and not worry too much about accuracy at the other marks. I had NHS re-do a 930 turbo tachometer to change the boost gauge to a fuel gauge for my 911 dash conversion, and they printed the face with the same mark spacing as the standard 911 fuel gauge, which is what I was trying to improve on. The movement they gave me is more linear, so the gauge is much better than the 911 unit I was running before, but it was disappointing not to have better accuracy everywhere. It's still off significantly at the full and 1/2 tank levels. I got spoiled, I suppose, by the stock 914 gauge, which is VERY linear and amazingly accurate.

Click to view attachment

The reason I moved the gas gauge to the tach location, by the way, (aside from the fact that I had a turbo tach with that slot available) was to make room for a voltmeter in the left-most combination gauge. I think a voltmeter is useful, particularly for a car that isn't driven much. It gives you some advance warning of a weak battery that needs replacement, and can help you diagnose a short somewhere. Also, you may not think the clock is cool to have, but I find that I look at it much more than any of the engine gauges except the tach. Just my opinion, of course.

Larry

The few 911 gauges I have tested have the same resistance as the 914 gauge. So they do seem to be the same. They do turn in different directions though. Its no big deal to put the 914 fuel gauge in there though, the indocator face will need to be re-printed, but I do that as well.
Mark

Here are some 911 gauges I did for some customers this week

Mark

Trust me, you can melt a head without ever getting your oil hot.