My steering wheel has some play in it and my first thought was to install the $12 "Quick Fix" bushing as described in a number of links and in an issue of "Excellence" magazine. Upon inspection (steering wheel off, signal and wiper controls removed) I noticed that the play seemed to be on the outside of the bearing, not from it being loose on the inside (where the bushing would seemingly take up slack). I also noticed that the PO had previously installed the bushing. This brings me to the assumption that I need to replace the steering wheel bearing itself.

Are there any tricks to removing the old bearing and for the proper placement of the new bearing? Although I have seen a number of links for installing the "Quick Fix" bushing, I have not seen any instructional links for the nearing replacement itself.

My thanks to all for your contributions to this BBS. I have learned a great deal from this site since I got my 74 2.0L teener (about a year ago).

Would someone respond to this issue. I got the same problem. Sure, Haynes will help but, I would like to hear from someone who has been there and done it.
Just how much steering column slop, if any is acceptable?
Allen

What year?
The bearings changed in the later years.

To do the full replacement its not rocket science.
Take out the steering column, get it to a bench.
Keep digging and removing parts till you can remove the 1 foot shaft.
The bearing is on the back.

Then a new bearing and bushing , done.

First, check to make sure the play is not from the four bolts under the dash being loose..it happens.

Rich

i think he's talking about the top bearing at the steering wheel side.

i did it a while ago, it wasn't very hard at all. just pull the wheel off and the turn signal switch and the stuff to get to where you can get access to the bearing . i was able to use a tool with a 90 degree bend at the end to pry the bearning out side by side style.

the bearing is easy to replace. all you need to do is to take of the circlip and it'll slide right out (well, yours will because it has play already) ...

but here's the problem, if the bearing has play on the outside, your column might be worn and a new bearing will be just as lose as the old one. i have seen that before ...

let us know what you find.
Andy

It is fairly self explanatory once the column is out. Just be sure to remove the "Jesus" clips (Snap Ring Clips). My bearing was really tight and I found it easier to remove the clips from both bearings to make some play availiable. I had to tap on the shaft to get the bearings to slide. Once I got about an inch of play, I was able to just grab the bearing an slide it out.

Thanks everybody for your responses. BTW, it's a 74 2.0L. I have the bearing on order. As soon as it arrives I will update you to my experience.

none ...


when i rebuild mine, i made sure the bearing fit snug into the column and i used the metal crush sleeve on the shaft.

no sloppiness what-so-ever ...
Andy

I've done a couple of dozen upper steering wheel bearings on 914s over the last 35 years, ans have NEVER had one that slipped either on or off. They're supposed to be a press fit in the column, ans slightly loose on the shaft. The Cap'n

If you are talking about the plastic bearing, I had the same issue with my 75. Everything gets bigger with age (Well at least things we don’t want to get bigger).

Obviously, this problem can be solved with money. However when ever possible, I prefer use KISS. So if you want a simply low cost solution. The answer is simply to shim it. Use an old feeler gauge to determine the shim thickness. Now of course you can look around and find some sheet metal that is ½ or adds to that thickness and shim it (or what I did was to use a blade that is half that size). Cut the blade into small pieces and shim the bearing in at least three places (I did in at 9:00 12:00 3:00 and 6:00) around the bearing.

If this is your problem this solution worked great for me.

Hope this helps

James

I had the same problem, and had to fix it to get a Roadworthy Certificate, to get my car registered.

I found my column was damaged, with a crack that let the bearing move up and down a little. I put some epoxy putty around the outside of the bearing and pressed it in, and now it's solid as a rock.

This is for the 73

And a few more.

I was thinking of doing this. Thanks for the pictures Mike.

Do you always work on car stuff in your bare feet?

Hello Doctor!

I sure enjoyed your clinic at Trevor’s. You are on my future project list for my transmission rebuild . My question is…. Is it so warm on the east coast that you work with bare feet?

Regards,

James

YES! I miss San Diego

Beware! All bearings are not the same and no one seems to be able to tell you what size they have. Some are thinner than others, some thicker. I have yet to be able to completely remove all slop in my wheel as the collars wear out as well.

Thanks everybody for the advice and the pictures. I followed your instructions and replaced the upper bearing as planned. The new bearing sat in the housing a little loose, so that the play in the streering wheel was still present. I knew from James posting that I needed a shim, but a very, very small shim. I ended up using some tin foil (from the kitchen) folded over about four times and inserted into the steering column on the outside of the bearing. The bearing pressed in very snugly and solved the problem!

What did I do wrong that took me a fully day to do this? Well, I used a hammer to snug up the inside "quick-fix" sleeve. Obviously, it didn't fit correctly and I ended up replacing the sleeve with the plastic sleeve that came with the bearing. In doing this I flattened out a number of splines on the steering column. After an hour or so of filing the splines back so that the steering wheel would once again fit on the end, it all came together rather nicely.

No more bouncy steering wheel. I went ahead and replaced the tie-rod ends the next day. What a difference!

Thanks again everybody!

Thanks for the follow up! Glad it's all better for you.