I've read posts on the topic, the PP tech article, and the Haynes procedure but I'm not sure I'm clear on adjusting my '73 side shift linkage.

To rotate the shift rod left or right it has to be out (disengaged) of the coupler at the shift lever, is that correct? Also, in the access hole between the seats please help me identify whats what. The shift rod is the thick bar against the drivers side. Then there are 2 thin metal tubes in the middle going through the fire wall, what are these. There is also a curved metal tube with nuts on it's middle section. Is this tube part of the shift linkage and are the nuts turned for adjustment?

I am able to access all gears but have a grind downshifting 3 to 2. I presume I am "nicking" reverse? The lockout plate looks good and the springs are Weltmeister replacements (they did not appear to be any more stout than the originals). What is the best adjustment procedure to remedy this?

Thanks for any help.

Mark

i'm not sure exactly which one is which without seeing a pic, but your accele cable and clutch cable are in there.

it seems like if you can find gears, it just needs a little adjustment. what i did was think backwards, i.e. my 2-3 plane seemed to a bit off to the right (meaning i needed to push a bit to the left to engage) so i simply undid the coupler and rotated the bar a bit to the right. small adjustments like that helped me a lot. just takes a while

No, it shouldn't be out of the coupler at the tranny . that should be attached as well as everything else but the adjustment at the shifter.
your gear shifter goes down into the tunnel. that has the spring centerer in it.
that is connected to the shift rod that goes all the way through the tunnel and to the tranny.

loosen the tranny linkage at the tunnel.
then get under your car and shift your tranny into 3nd gear.
This is supposed to be a neutral (left and right) position for the shifter.
Then move your shifter into the proper position for 3rd gear position. Then tighten the linkage adjuster. That's about it...
Now your shifter neutral position springs are in alignment with where the middle of the tranny shifter pattern. Make sense?

How is the tranny shifted from under the car?

Grab the rod and push pull and twist. you should be able to detect all your shift gates.

I do as explained above establish 2-3 gate. tighten the shifter clamp. You should be able to easily go 2-3
Now go into 1-R gate this should be against spring pressure.
With your finger tips on the shifter go 1-2 the shifter should pop out of the 1 gate and center up in nuetral ready to go into 2nd with just your finger tip on the top of the shifter ball.
If this is not what you get then you need to adjust the rod in relation to the shifter, loosen the clamp on the shifter and rotate the rod one spline and try it again.
Once you get 1-2 shift working then go to 3-4 and this should be against less spring pressure but some. if you get 4th then 4-5 will be done as well.

Now go drive it. and be prepared to make a 1 spline adjustment either way.

Take off the plastic over on the shift console and you'll see the shift rod head (page 89 in your Haynes Manual)

Click to view attachment

Here's the shift pattern (think of it as your shifter pattern 'on its side')

Click to view attachment

Hope this helps!

Do you understand how the linkage works from the shifter to the transmission? If not, back the car up on some ramps, get under there and take a look. It will help you a lot to understand how your moving the shifter affects the linkage.

At the firewall, down at the bottom in the middle, there is a hole where a fairly sturdy rod comes out. It is connected to a coupler and another rod. This second rod, continues backwards under the engine and through a hole in the engine mount bar, to the side of the transmission.

Race914 posted a picture of the console. Remove that big plastic cover, and let it hang there. You should see the head of the shift rod there. This is what moves when you wiggle the gear shift in the cabin. Per the diagram, it has 7 possible positions; 1-5, R and N. In the car, when the shift lever is moved forward, the shift head moves backwards. A move backwards (1st, 3rd, 5th) moves the shift head forwards by pulling on the rod. Moving the shifter in the cabin to the left or right rotates the rod and cause the change in height at the shift head.

Here is a Diagram on PP for reference: Linkage

Dr. Roger's procedure works well, but you might need to tune it a little and knowing how the changes in the cabin at the shifter affect the position on the trans well help you get it tuned.

Lastly, while you are down there, and tweaking the shifter, buy the bushings and replace them. If you are having shifting issues, new bushings are a must.

Good luck and report back!!

Where in the world did you get those graphics Greg?!?! They're fantastic!

Recently unclassifed Reverse Engineering report from Area 51 Click to view attachment

swell diagrams. i sent you a reply pm mark. as i said, suspect the rear cup bushing first. unless the lever is hard, HARD to the lockout plate (pushing against the springs all of the time) i think you're knicking 4th when trying to go from 3rd to 2nd.

k

Very cool graphics! Do you mind if I copy them into my rebuild thread?

By all means, please do!

I've gotten underneath and used the great diagram to follow Dr. Roger's procedure. The bushings are original so I will need to replace them. Now if I finesse it I can avoid any grinding downshifting from 3 to 2. I can access all the other gears no problem.

I'd like to go one better than that. I'll be talking to Greg about posting that in the 914 Info (Tech section) of the site.

I'll have to get that done over Christmas!