The restoration of my 76 teener is finished and the car looks super. New paint, interior, trim, chrome, lights, wheels, tires -- the works. That's the good news. The bad news is that we just moved the car and the dreaded oil spots on the garage floor have suddenly appeared. After inspection, it looks like the oil is comming from the heads and the lower case. So here is the question -- do I rebuild the 73 2.0 with dual 40mm webbers or do I replace the whole thing? I am on the east coast so any decent engine will need to come from California. Help!

coming from where on heads?

Valve cover gaskets?

Pushrod Tubes?

Coming from where on case?

Mating seam?

Pushrod tubes?

Valve cover gaskets and the mating seam. That's my best guess.

1. Couple of bucks for gaskets, screwdriver, rag, maybe some glue (RTV, Gasgacinch, etc)

2. Splitting the case required - doubtful

Get some cheap Brake Cleaner in a rattle can ... get goggles ... put goggles on and spray the areas to clean them. Start engine ... run up and down the street a couple of times .... get back under and see if you can spot the oil trail.

or

find a friend with a lift

Oil leaks do not necessitate a rebuild.

Several $1000's for a rebuild ......that can buy you a whole bunch of oil.

If the motor is running good, reseal the leaky parts and drive. For the oil spots, buy some cheap carpeting to put under the car and change as needed. Cardboard works too.

A few spots doesn't mean a rebuild. Clean it up and see where the oil is coming from. Some seals can seep for years without causing any real problem. If the leak is from something that can suddenly fail and cause a large leak you'll need to do it soon. As far as east coast shops go you have Tangerine Racing right in your backyard. Contact Chris if you need anything.

The most common problems are valve covers, push rod tube "O" rings, front and rear main seals, and oil cooler. Thats about all there is. If your not confident enough to pull it and replace 30.00 on seals and gaskets call Chris. A couple days and your back on the road.

No, the best engines are shipped from East to West.... Not the other way around!

You need to verify the integrity of what you have before just ulling out out and going through it... Many times when that occurs and a replacement is purchased from a mass producer, your old core is a BETTER ENGINE than the new one.

The integrity of what you have can be judged from leak down and compression tests and a few simple procedures to help gauge valve train wear.

If the engine has leakage issues it may have high crankcase pressure and that can be caused by many things within the engine and even the exhaust system.

I agree with an above poster, take the car to someone who knows the 914, Like Chris Foley from Tangerine Racing. When trying to figure out what needs to be done its important to get second opinions and its also important that those offering those opinions are specialists with your car- not just some guy that works on import cars.

It sounds like you have done a really good job on the 914 and you need to remember that the engine is the heart of the car. If the engine sucks, leaks, smokes or can't provide solid reliable power the car is worthless...

a set of rollup ramps or your floor jack, a few cans of brake cleaner, some rain gear, $5 to $10, and hit the local spray and wash. get the bottom side sparkling clean and find the leaks. if it's a grungy mess you'll just be chasing your tail.

k

I see that you are from White Plains, just a skip away from Stamford. No need to rebuild the motor yet, just take a look underneath and see where its coming from. If not, take it to a reputable shop and have them take a look. My garage is full otherwise i'd offer to take a peek at it. Come spring you are welcome to come by my place and I'll take a look at it.

Any interest in autocrossing