so the floors came out of my '73 2.0 today. i took out the pedal cluster, the gauges in the center console, and the master cylinder came out as well.... now the question is...would it be better to get a 914/6 master cylinder, rebuild mine, or do a big brake up grade - to the 911 calipers and what not.

what did you guys do to make the cockpit a little nicer?
any suggestions?
what would you change about the cockpit?

The 911 19mm master cylinder is a nice up grade. If you have a butt load of money to burn you could do the 911 suspension but it isn't nessesary.

You know this is coming...

I like stock interiors. I wouldn't change anything.

If the center tunnel is open, make sure the clutch tube is firmy attached, if not weld a bracket onto it. Also would be a good time to replace the fuel lines as well. Couldn't hurt to change that pesky shift bushing in the fire wall as well, and the shifter bushings up front.

Got pics?!

I prefer the pedal feel that the 17mm (stock 4 cylinder master cylinder) MC provides. The feel with the 19mm 911/914-6 unit is too stiff IMHO.

i dont know how to put up photos or i would because there are some pretty sweet ones

this wasn't the worst area

Click to view attachment

...probably not the best way....Click to view attachment

partially out

dirty work

almost done...sorry about all the posts. didnt know how else to do this

the floors are out...in my pickup...

and lastly before pictures of new floors....

and lastly before pictures of new floors....

Wow you got your work cut out, is there anything to weld the new floors too?!!

Plenty of and fabbing, look forward to seeing your progress.

i am actually paying a guy to fab the pieces and weld them in...there isnt much to weld to...but we will figure it out.

i will keep it updated for you guys

This is only one of the threads here on the site about repairing the chassis but it's a very good one.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=16748

Lots of great info.

After seeing that floor rot... I think I'm going to weld in some extra material along the seams of the center tunnel, inside longs and both firewalls. So do you stop and go like the flinstones?

what's he chargin you to do that?
tryin to get a ballpark figure of what a proficient welder would charge to do my floor (rear pan)

...i get the flinstones thing alot. and i'm going to be completely honest. sick of hearing it. haha.

price wise. he is charging me $65/hr - until its finished. his usual prices are $80 / hr but he knows i am just a college kid. so he was throwing me a bone. hahaha

hope those answer any relative questions. keep 'em coming. i like to answer some envery now and again. seeing as i ask most of them.

so do you start and stop like the flintstones?
















lol. jk. thx for the estimates. wonder how many hours that's gonna take lol...

I am doing something like this, but my floor is not as bad. In fact the problem areas I am dealing with are the intersection of the floor and passenger longitudinal as well as the rear bulkhead on the passenger side.

It looks like you have little if nothing to weld to on the center tunnel, box section that travels left to right as well where the longitudinals meet the floor. If it was me I would...

1. Get the car up on some good jackstands so you can work under the car. The engine lift/strap scares me.
2. Drill out any remaining spotwelds (such as near the rear bulkhead) to completely surgically remove the entire floor
3. Media blast and rust treat the entire area.
4. Have your guy fabricate lower sections for the tunnel, lower longitudinal, etc. so that you can have something to weld the floor to. This is to replace the stuff you cut out when you removed the floor itself. It would also be interesting to see how health the bottom of each longitudinal is.
5. Buy a complete repro floor vs. trying to fabricate a replacement.

back to the brake issue.

a friend gave me the front struts from a 911. came with calipers....should i go ahead and do that upgrade or does that mean i need to do the whole suspension...

i just want to take the calipers and put them on my car. get 2 more. and go all around the car. i know i'd then need the 911 master cylinder...

is this possible or is this just wishful thinking.

let me know what you guys think.
thanks.

i'll take photos of what i've got strut wise so you get a better idea of what i have when i get home

Regarding brake calipers, this Wiki article will give you some background...

http://www.roadglue.com/wiki/index.php/911_front_suspension

In short, I believe you can replace your existing struts with the 911 struts and keep your existing A-arms and torsion bars. Did your struts also come with hubs as well? If you talking about just the calipers, then we need to know if they have the 3" or 3.5" spacing. This is the bolt spacing where they mount to the strut. The 914 strut (and earlier 911) use 3" spacing while later 911 struts use 3.5" spacing.

i didnt see your first post, sorry. thanks for the adivce on the floors...the engine hoist way was actually surprisingly strong...i wont lie.

the problem with the repro floors route is that i have almost all of hte floors already in separate pieces. either A) bought what i didnt have got for free some pieces C) bought scrap steel...if i hadn't gone through that already i would buy a set of repro floors. but i already have about 80 -90% of what needs to be replaced...

i will get back to you on the caliper situation. i have to take a look at them. like i said, a friend gave them to me for free so even if i cant use them unless i replace the whole suspension, i haven't lost any money

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3 inches center-to-center will fit 914 struts, along with the 19mm master cyl. a T should replace the factory proportioning valve. I know Eric Shea sells em.

more info in Search

Those are not 911 struts.

Those are 914 struts that have been drilled and 5-lug studs installed.

If you look closely, those are solid rotors/hubs.

911's used an aluminum hub and had the rotor bolted to it.

Those are 914 calipers and will fit, but you will be gaining nothing.



Good luck with your floors. I hope you find something to weld to.

hey thanks for all your help guys. one more question

if i didnt replace the calipers and just did the 19mm master cylinder, what kind of improvement will i be looking at. is it worth the money? or should i just rebuild mine or get a new one or whatever

The 19mm master cylinder will displace more brake fluid given the same pedal travel. The pedal will be slightly harder to press, but will have less travel than the 17mm unit. Is there a problem with your 17mm unit? Is it leaking?

If the master cylinder is not leaking, I would not bother with it. It will be more important to make sure your calipers (all 4 of them) are in good working order and that all pistons extend and retract as they should. Also read about setting the venting clearances on the rear calipers. If anything in the brake system needs to be rebuilt, I'd bet that the calipers will need rebuild kits. In my opinion, master cylinders are not worth rebuilding.

These are just my opinions, and your milage might vary.

I also have no idea where one finds a 17mm rebuild kit (if they are even still available; everywhere I checked said that they aren't). I just bought a new 19mm. It was cheaper and definitely works.

there is nothing wrong to my knowledge with the master cylinder i took off the car. it just looks like hell. but what doesn't on my car. haha. anyway. i guess ill just look at the calipers determine what i need to do with those. and if i dont need to get new ones or do too much to them ill just give 'em a nice red coat to make them look nice