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horizontally-opposed
Curious to see if you can see the CF weave through your paint now that time has passed. Also would love to see pics of fit and finish around the edges of headlights, by the cowling, etc.

Any regrets? I'm considering the swap while I'm painting my car to save some weight....

Thanks!!! beerchug.gif

pete
stevesc_us
QUOTE(horizontally-opposed @ Feb 13 2008, 01:14 PM) *

Curious to see if you can see the CF weave through your paint now that time has passed. Also would love to see pics of fit and finish around the edges of headlights, by the cowling, etc.

Any regrets? I'm considering the swap while I'm painting my car to save some weight....

Thanks!!! beerchug.gif

pete


Pete,

Who is doing your paint and body work? I live in the bay area and am considering having steel flares installed on my six. Knowing you, whoever is doing the work must be a shop you think quite highly of.

Thanks,
Chris Pincetich
I store my 914 in the garage, but had it out in CA sun for lots of drivin and racin for 2 years with clear-coated CF lids. Randal's #222 914 has both painted and unpainted sections on his CF lids (BPR Racing in google, photos on McMark's site). I haven't noticed any ill affects from sun yet. As far as finish, mine are from GT Racing and were purchased used. The Getty ones are supposedly best, and mine are a bad example because of they weren't perfect to start. They fit fine for me, but others would point out gap issues. I need to buff out some major scratches and repairs in the front, the rear looks fine. The natural CF weave against my black 914 looks sweet! beerchug.gif
horizontally-opposed
QUOTE(stevesc_us @ Feb 13 2008, 02:05 PM) *


Pete,

Who is doing your paint and body work? I live in the bay area and am considering having steel flares installed on my six. Knowing you, whoever is doing the work must be a shop you think quite highly of.

Thanks,



Metalwork is being done by Genoa Racing, which is a shop just down the street I've been visiting for 15 minutes or so a day for most of the last decade whenever I need some fresh air. Good guys, and one of them is an EXCELLENT fabricator/metalworker. The manager, Ed Nelson, has owned Porsches and crewed on 962s with Bayside Disposal.

It's a fun place to visit. They've worked on everything, from full restorations of million-dollar Maserati prototypes and 1950s Indycars for Pebble Beach to rare motorcycles, Model Ts, and budget-minded Triumph and Lotus vintage race cars. Right now, they're working on my humble 914 wub.gif and Peter Brock's front/mid-engined, Nascar V8-powered Datsun 510. blink.gif

Suffice to say, yes, I've been impressed with their work. So has Phil Reilly & Co. (mega-dollar restoration house in Marin), which has subcontracted work their way. So they'd probably be a great place to do your flares, as John is VERY good with a welder, but they don't do bodywork per se. My car goes from Novato to Cars Dawydiak for paint.

Here's the amazing thing: their shop rate is $70 an hour, which is ridiculously cheap for their level of experience/skill level in the bay area. They'll do anything short of actual bodywork, especially if it's race-oriented.

What they DON'T do well is promotion, so I try to steer some work their way. I can do it on a 914er to 914er basis, but not in my capacity at Excellence. So it's a personal recommendation, not an official one.

Genoa Racing & Restoration
(415) 883-4824
(415) 883-4899
Email: manager[at]genoarestoration.com

pete
JPB
Urathane paint holding great however, the FG front end looks like ASS! beer.gif
yarin
What are a few sources for fiberglass hood/trunk? I've seen them on ebay for $250 each. If anyone comes across a used set be sure to let me know!

stevesc_us
QUOTE(horizontally-opposed @ Feb 13 2008, 03:59 PM) *

QUOTE(stevesc_us @ Feb 13 2008, 02:05 PM) *


Pete,

Who is doing your paint and body work? I live in the bay area and am considering having steel flares installed on my six. Knowing you, whoever is doing the work must be a shop you think quite highly of.

Thanks,



Metalwork is being done by Genoa Racing, which is a shop just down the street I've been visiting for 15 minutes or so a day for most of the last decade whenever I need some fresh air. Good guys, and one of them is an EXCELLENT fabricator/metalworker. The manager, Ed Nelson, has owned Porsches and crewed on 962s with Bayside Disposal.

It's a fun place to visit. They've worked on everything, from full restorations of million-dollar Maserati prototypes and 1950s Indycars for Pebble Beach to rare motorcycles, Model Ts, and budget-minded Triumph and Lotus vintage race cars. Right now, they're working on my humble 914 wub.gif and Peter Brock's front/mid-engined, Nascar V8-powered Datsun 510. blink.gif

Suffice to say, yes, I've been impressed with their work. So has Phil Reilly & Co. (mega-dollar restoration house in Marin), which has subcontracted work their way. So they'd probably be a great place to do your flares, as John is VERY good with a welder, but they don't do bodywork per se. My car goes from Novato to Cars Dawydiak for paint.

Here's the amazing thing: their shop rate is $70 an hour, which is ridiculously cheap for their level of experience/skill level in the bay area. They'll do anything short of actual bodywork, especially if it's race-oriented.

What they DON'T do well is promotion, so I try to steer some work their way. I can do it on a 914er to 914er basis, but not in my capacity at Excellence. So it's a personal recommendation, not an official one.

Genoa Racing & Restoration
(415) 883-4824
(415) 883-4899
Email: manager[at]genoarestoration.com

pete


Thanks for the info Pete....that is a very reasonable rate. Looks like they are doing a great job so far.
Borderline
I was very happy with my f/g front hood until I forgot to put the pins in one day (I was in a hurry to check out my new shifter). I was very careful with the prep and paint, but the weave was starting to show. Not sure if it is a cure/shrinkage problem or what. I'm in the process of building another front hood and just layed up the rear deck lid the other day. I'm looking for light weight and probably don't have the same standards as you. You should talk to your paint/body people and get their advice, if the weave showing some is going to bother you. I get the impression it will. beerchug.gif
horizontally-opposed
QUOTE(Borderline @ Feb 14 2008, 04:38 PM) *

I was very happy with my f/g front hood until I forgot to put the pins in one day (I was in a hurry to check out my new shifter). I was very careful with the prep and paint, but the weave was starting to show. Not sure if it is a cure/shrinkage problem or what. I'm in the process of building another front hood and just layed up the rear deck lid the other day. I'm looking for light weight and probably don't have the same standards as you. You should talk to your paint/body people and get their advice, if the weave showing some is going to bother you. I get the impression it will. beerchug.gif



Thanks for the input...

I can probably deal with a bit of CF weave showing up (so long as it isn't too obvious) but I'm not sure I want lids with less than excellent gaps.

Dropping the weight, however, is very appealing to me. I suspect that, between dumping the steel lids, ditching the chrome bumpers for GT units, and using the GT headlight setup one might lose 80-100 pounds, all in very good places. idea.gif

This is where photos of CF or FG lids would be VERY handy...

pete
Eric_Shea
Pete,

On my RS clone the FG weave is beginning to show in some areas. I believe the epoxy based resins for FG and CF are very similar if not the same. Just by nature, those elements are fluid and will eventually settle over time (call it "Patina" and you'll be able to palette it better). biggrin.gif

What I've done with the teener glass is let is sit for "years". It will probably get squirted this summer. What we did with the 911 glass is set it outside for about a week in the hot UT sun before mounting it and working it into shape on the car. I'm still "extremely" happy with my 911 glass, however, you can find weave if you look.

Bottom line; the longer you can afford to let it sit (and settle) before prepping and painting, the better it will be. wink.gif
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