Click to view attachmentSorry, absolutely no 914 content . . . but thought this might be a good place to turn for honest advice if there are any knowledgeable Ford 5.0 folks out there.

Last weekend I finally started to the install parts I've been gathering for our Ford-engined Volvo ("Fjord") wagon. These include GT40 heads, Cobra intake manifold, 65mm throttle body (with a 70mm MAF and a set of 24# injectors still on the shelf). While the work isn't going as smoothly as I'd hoped, the delays give me an opportunity to look at what else I should do "while I'm in there."

One of the recommendations I'm getting from the local shop is to install "roller rockers" (1.7:1 ratio, same as on the 94-95 Mustang Cobras). I can understand some of the benefits (greater valve lift, less friction, lower oil temps), but I'm not hearing any disadvantages (other than "some clearancing of the valve covers may be required").

So, what are goods, bads, and uglies associated 1.7:1 RR's? Will I be giving up bottom-end compared to the stock rockers (1.6:1 pressed steel)?

Any advice--especially BTDT's--would be great.

Thanks in advance!

Steve A-

If you are using the stock cam the roller rockers will give you a tiny bit more power (not really worth the expense IMHO) the low end will be still be fine and they will make a little more valve train noise. If you are keeping the stock cam don't use the big MAF or the big injectors as they will ruin the drive ability of the car. It is just like putting a carb that is to big for the engine.
BTW I have a roller cam 351 that I really want to put into my 80' 244.

The only down side I'm aware of is you will need to buy new "tall" valve covers.

Steve and Tim, thanks for the input . . .

I'm keeping the MAF and the bigger injectors on the shelf until I do a complete rebuilt sometime in the future (I'll be doing a custom cam at that time).

A 351 would be a heck of an engine in a 2-series Volvo--but it's a little bigger engine (if I remember, the 351 is about 3" taller and just over 2" wider)--and the 2-series engine compartment is pretty narrow. Now a 7- or 9-series car might be just the thing!

Thanks again,

Steve A-

I managed and built all the engines at Ford Performance Solutions for a few years in the late 90s... just for background info.

The higher ratio on a rocker arm simply increases overall valve lift. So you want to use the ratio to maximize higher flow rates, assuming they exist at the lift you end up with. So that brings me to the GT40 heads - they aren't really that great, but they're good for what I think you want to do. You should consider porting them. Additionally, you REALLY need to dump the stock cam and go with a little hotter cam to take advantage of the parts you bought. There is a lot of advertising lingo with cams and guys talk level 2 or stage 2 etc... those cams are typically in the 220 dur @ 050 int range and 228-ish @ 050 exh, which 8 deg additional exh works well with a GT40 head as its exh doesn't flow as well as some other aftermarket heads.

If you port the heads, they will flow better at higher lifts, and then with a good cam, you can determine what the valve lift is with 1.6 or 1.7 and determine what are the right rockers for that combo. Stock cam is a waste of time.

So go with a 218-220 int/224-228 exh @ 050 hyd roller cam, which will have a mild bump to the idle but work well with the parts you have. Do NOT buy a cam with the same int and exh duration with those heads, like a B cam.

Actually, just call Troy at FPS and get his Level 2 cam - awesome street cam with those heads (714) 773-4177 or -4178. He is always on the phone so hang in there.

Getting a cam like that and a decent port job on the heads, with the TB, MAF and 24# inj you will have a pretty nice combo for a streeter. I would also port the intakes to match the heads.

That is what I would do if it were me... maximize what you just bought.

FYI, my buddy had an early 80s Volvo with a 305 Chevy in it back in high school with nitrous and a huge flowmaster on the rear with a single 3" dump. Car was a riot, and did the one-wheel-peel for blocks Probably find some pix at his website www.denverspeed.com and you can see his 16V big turbo wagon he has right now.

Thanks for the advice--I've copied it all and pasted it into my folder for what I should do next. Interesting too, as Troy's name came up in another recommendation! I'll definitely have to give him a call as this project goes forward.

BTW, I checked out your blog--really impressive work on the MBT-8

Thanks again for the inputs!

good to here Troy mentioned elsewhere... he is the coolest guy and most knowledgeable Ford guy I have ever met. He is too cheap too (charges too little for his knowledge IMO) so take advantage of it!

I saw your post right after I posted mine... if you plan to do some bottom end work, unless you have a real need to put the heads on and so forth (like blown gaskets, cracks, burnt valves or whatever) just wait and do it all at one time. It is so much easier to send the heads out for porting before you need 'em if you catch my drift Then you can get the right cam, the heads could already be a Troy's (FPS) and he can set them up for the right springs to match the cam exactly, port the lower and do a simple match on the upper to the lower and TB, and then get all that back at one time and be ready to tear in with all the parts.

You will be impressed with the power that stuff with the right cam and porting can make... but just bolt it all on as-is and you won't feel you spent your money well at all.

No, had to do it now . . . hope to make it a couple more years on the current bottom end--then a complete custom rebuild (ported intake and heads, cam, custom headers, swap the AOD for a T-5Z, etc.)

Again, thanks for the advice!