I'm looking for an engine for my car. I'm considering a 2.7 /6 conversion. The 2.7, despite it's possible problems, looks like it would be far less expensive than a 3.0 or later /6.

Problem is, I know very little about them. I know that they are notorious for pulled head studs. I know that the tensioner upgrade and turbo cam covers are desirable.

Worst case, what am I looking at if I purchase a core sight unseen? Is it scrap? How much does machine work typically cost to rebuild a 2.7? Time-serts?

My other options are a 2270 or a Subie. The Subie kills any chance of competitive racing, but the reliability looks promising. The 2270 would be in the distant future, as I don't have the funds for a complete engine right now. I figure I could build a 2.7/6 over time and fund it as I go step by step. Might take years.

Any advice on the 2.7 option?

You can spend over 5K on a stock rebuild. It really depends on what's good and what isn't. The 2.7 was the biggest production motor built on a magnesium case. The aluminum cases are stronger. Here's a link with machining prices, I don't know anything about this machine shop other than they have a good list of prices.
http://www.germanprecisioninc.com/Price_Sheet.html
If you want to learn about 6 cylinders, go to the pelican parts forum on 911 engine rebuilding, buy Bruce Anderson's book "Porsche 911 Performance Handbook" and buy Wayne Dempsey's 911 engine rebuilding book. You can get both used on Amazon or Ebay used for under $15.00 each including shipping, each will pay for it's self a hundred times over.

Thanks Steve. I've been looking at Bruce Anderson's book... even if I don't go with a /6, it looks very interesting.

How much would a complete longblock of unknown condition be worth?

Unknown longblock worth about $500. 2.7s are good motors if the problem areas are taken care of. They pulled studs as they got so hot due to the use of Thermal Reactor exhaust systems. If money is a concern, when isn't it, save up some greenbacks and buy a running motor from someone who is upgrading

A couple three months ago I paid $1000.00 for a 2.7 question mark with a pair of Weber 40's. I figured a good rebuildable set of Webers is worth what I paid for the whole engine. Most of the engine is bad, I'm glad that I didn't pay more.

It would be hard to spend UNDER $5k on a stock rebuild on a 2.7, if you were at all interested in doing it right ..................... The Cap'n

Unless you want the experience of rebuilding a motor . . . .

Since you said it would take years to do this anyway, I would just start saving the $$$ and then purchase a 3.2 or 3.6 in good running order.

Wayne Dempsey's book is all about rebuilding a 2.7, with pictures to boot, so I wouldn't be afraid of it. All these 3.0 and 3.2 engines out there are also considered old, so they should at least have a top end overhaul, which also isn't cheap.

I've had a 2.7 that we rebuilt over ten years ago, and it's still going strong. the trick seems to be to do all the right steps outlined in the book, and it will live.

If a good 3.2 comes along, the Motronic is happier with today's gas than the old Webers are.

another part of the jig saw puzzle is the induction. what are your thoughts on the induction system of your long term motor?

when i bought my car, it included a 69 T basket case motor. i'm fantasizing about a 2.2 w/digital EFI TMW intake. need to research which cam as i don't want a motor that lives at high rpm (not my driving style). E cams?

MFI would be my preference, but realistically, it would be carbs on a 2.7.

Anyone want to trade an engine for my services as a wedding photographer? That's how I got my 914...

You're right, I forgot to say- if you do all the work yourself. Even then it's hard to stay under 5K.

I listed a 77 65kmiles 2.7 for sale a while back if you are interested.... It ran fine when I pulled it out a few years ago... I have to sell it to buy a 98 993 vario motor.


Looking for 2700 for the complete motor.

5K is really pretty conservative for the rebuild cost if you buy a cis 2.7 in unknown condition. A friend of mine is building one to RS spec and including the cost of the core engine has about 10K into his. Case work from ollies is about 1500, Crank work another 600, buy a set of webbers and a rebuild kit 1100, pmo manifolds for the 2.7 170 bucks, rebuild the rods with good bolts 500 bucks, new RS pistons and cylinders 2400 bucks if you can find them for that price.... on and on ...

However, I also think that a 3.2 / 3.6 conversion is a stretch for the 901 (personal opinion)

All those things considered the 2270 is a lot cheaper option.

Also dont forget that for the oil tank 1000, engine tin 400, and 914/6 headers (without heat) 500.

I have contemplated the same things over and over so please read that as just sharing my research. I am leaning towards the 2270 due to the bang for the buck factor... but I am a flake so could wind up doing just about anything

I second everything above...

In Waynes book they spent over $6k to rebuild a 2.7 not including air delivery ( CIS/ Carbs).

I also bought a 3.0 and found out that it needed new head studs and a valve job. However I did know that it was going to need somework when I bought it.

I think the best swap is a good running or rebuilt 2.7-3.2... Unless you are trying to figure out how the 911 engine is put together, but rebuilding a 911 motor is nothing close to any iron block v-8 pushrod motor...

Sounds like a pretty decent deal, but my big issue is that I was just medically "retired" from the Air Force, so now I am unemployed... I can't afford $2700 in one lump.

Maybe six months from now

You must have this book!!!

Whats the head stud history on this unit?

No known problem when pulled.. I saved it all these years- 'just in case' the smog issue came up.. 77 still in the family .

Looking to up grade to a 993 Vario..any leads. Other wise, just collecting part for a 'what' if... want it?

Yup. Also factor in the cost of the oil cooler (/6 or modified), oil lines, motor mount, clutch/PP/flywheel, muffler, fuel pump, CD box, /6 cables, /6 Tach ...

staying 4 lug?

Looking for a 911 front suspension too.

My original estimate, when I got the car, and had a job, was that I would put $20K into the car, over a period of years, before I was done with it. That is doing my own welding, painting, etc.

Now, I have plenty of time to work on the car, but a very limited budget. One of two things must happen... lower my expectations, or increase the timeframe.

On a 2.7 you don't need to install an additional oil cooler, unless you are going to do autocrosses or DE's... I ran with out one for years, it would get a little warm on hot (100+) days but it was still in range. Also this is pretty much a stock CIS 2.7.

I did eventually put a cooler in b/c I want to do some autocrosses...

+1 on the no need for extra cooler. My 74 911 did not have an extra cooler until I upgraded to a larger engine. I drove it to and from work in bumper to bumper traffic for a couple years when it was stock.

but still cheaper to go with a 4 and pretty much the same hp if you build a 2270 4. If you build the 2.7 6 cyl and have deep pockets of course you could build more out of the 6 ... but from what I am reading here I bet you would be happy with a 2270. I saw how fast Robs car is with a 2270 and I was very impressed.