I have a factory supplied rear stabilizer bar for HillKing. My question is has anyone out there installed one of these into a car that did not have one from factory? Looking at the Stoddard book they show a 914.507.027.10 "securing plate" for 75-76 year car and a 914.501.259.11GVR for 73-74 cars. They also show part 914.501.532.71 reinforcement for both securing plates. Pelican shows this in their diagrams as well. Looking at the car there appears to already be holes for the bolt up stamped in the sheetmetal under the trunk crossbrace. So it looks as if the securing plate goes into the void between the upper engine compartment sheet metal and the trunk cross brace. Do you have to cut out on the topside to mount the securing plate and I assume the "reinforcement" would weld on after? Anybody using this setup?

It should be just a simple welding job on both sides of the trunk floor.

the reinforcement plates go inside the rear trunk. they add strength to the mounts:

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then clean up the underside and weld in the mounting brackets:

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Andy

PS: i used the bar and clamps as a guide to where exactly place the mounting brackets. i made sure both clamps where at the same spot left/right on the bar and then centered those and tacked in the brackets. double checked and then did the final welding.
the reinforcement on the inside of the trunk fits snug into the corner of the floorpan.

Just like Andy, Factory installed

I wouldn't use a rear sway bar unless you have an LSD......or even then, come to think of it.

Why is that? Others have mentioned this too. I've always had a rear sway bar in my 914s and thought they were fine.

wheel lift ...

on a car *without* substantial stiffening like full rollcage tied into the shock towers etc. you'll twist the tub when cornering hard. the rear swaybar will lift the unloaded tire up in the air and instead of going forward, all the uhmmmpf goes into spinning the unloaded tire ...

Andy

"Funny" things happen to 914s as you add increased grip.
Finding the good set up to optimize each new set of stickier tires as one progresses thru the stages to.... wherever, is a challenge.

Here's a couple pics separated by 4 years.
In the green car pic, notice the curved black line following the car around.
In the yellow car pic, notice the weight transfer to the outside rear tire.
Same car, different set up, but a similar situation.....accelerating (or trying to)
around a corner. No rear sway bar.

So with no rear bar do you dial in the rear suspension with the spring rate

That is the method I use.

The green car pic is with (IIRC) 250 lb springs. I went to 300s and that cured it....then backed down to 275s and it was still OK......21mm T bars up front. There needs to be balance F to R to get the front bar in an optimal range of adjustment for your preferred over or understeer. Half way hard is gud.

I assume there are other ways to get there, but you NEVER want to lift that inside rear. I now run a torque biasing LSD. They won't work if the inside tire is off the ground. A clutch type will but they will give you a push (understeer) at AX.

Interesting
Thanks J P