I got a new micrometer from HF, with a vice-grip base. I started getting stuff set up, and then I started second guessing myself.

My cam lobes for In and Ex are .465 (according to the cam card). Raby's guide to setting geometry says to "preload" the dial indicator. Valve lash is set to zero. I have positioned the indicator so that it shows .5 (halfway though it's travel). So, when that valve is fully depressed, my goal is to get the dial indicator to read .035 (+/- .023 [5% of .465]) right? (.5-.465=.035)

Am I doing this properly?

Zach

Yes and no. the most important thing is to get the1/2 lift geometry/alignment right.

Spin the engine over the way you ahve it set right now and see what your lift is.

once you have the total lift, divide it in half, then spin the engine until you come to your half number and check your valve stem/rocker tip alignment.

If your alignment is good, then your all set. (and your a lucky man) If it noees adjustment, adjust it and repeat the process.

Things usually fall into the 5% range.

Post lots of pics.

Keith

EDIT: setting the indicator at .5 is for FULL valve travel.

I am not sure exactly what your dial indicator reads, but here is my explanation.
I have a dial indicator that has about one inch of total travel. I positioned it so that the end that travels would hit on the top of the valve spring, and so that the centerline of the indicator movement was in line with the axis of the valve centerline. This was to make sure that no angular errors were caused. I then turned the engine to get the valve fully closed, and with it there set zero gap on the pushrod. Take the indicator and apply it so that there is a little travel on it- doesn't really matter what, just some. This makes sure there is zero gap on the indicator. Then turn the engine crank to cause the valve to open, and read the indicator reading. Continue turning until you find the maximum travel and note the indicator reading. Subtract this from the first reading, and you have the total travel being the difference of the two readings. My indicator could have zero adjusted, so I actually installed it with a little travel, and then zeroed it. This made the arithmetic easier, but is not necessary.

After getting total lift, I then turned the engine until the lift was half of total travel, which would be the sum of the original reading and 1/2 of the difference. I think this is what you described you are doing. This is necessary for checking the angle of the rocker arm at 1/2 lift.

I don't know how the experts do it, but I pretty much followed Jake's directions. I followed the above procedure taking notes, and then adjusted the length of the pushrod in 1/4 turn increments and measured the lift again. There seemed to be a sweet spot where changes in the rod length made very little change in total lift. the notes were handy to go back to reference where the good spot was. For cutting the pushrods, I used a heavy tubing cutter to make a rough cut. I then drilled a hole slightly larger than the pushrod outside diameter into a steel block, using a drill press so it would be perpendicular to the surface. I then put the pushrod through the hole and filed the end of it flat with the face on the metal block until the length was correct. This assured an accurate and flatly cut off to recieve the new ends.

I had some concerns about the angle of my rocker arms at mid lift. I ended up having to screw the elephant foot adjusters pretty far into the arms (these had been releived already). I ended up using about 20 thousandths of shims under the rocker arm mounts to get the angle right without having to take more off of the end of the rocker arm. I ended up with using a pushrod lengeth of about 271 (if I remember correctly), which is about what Jake had said would be close on one of his engine kits). I have seen other posts where people have had the same concerns with the elephant foot adjusters. I think I may have just been a little too cautious. However, take note that if you have to screw the adjusters pretty far into the rocker arm, make sure that you have enough space left to later adjust them as things settle in, and that the foot actually has room to swivel.

Good luck, JoeO