OK I have a slightly smaller than setrab type oil cooler up front, 12an lines and the stock tank with a mocal t-stat...I have put 12 qts in this beast and still get no reading on my dipstick while @ idle....do I need more oil??

Thanks

Josh

Run it until the car is warm and the oil thermostat opens, make sure you are on level ground, keep it running. Add 1 quart at a time, keep checking the dip stick....between 12-14 quarts is normal.

Don't let it get more than above 1/2 way on the stick....too full and you suck oil in thru the intake and kill mosquitos for the next week....

Why would I suck oil into the intake?

look where your oil tank vent lines go...

There's a breather from the oil tank that's connected (or should be) to the air cleaner of the carbs or FI intake. Normally heated oil fumes are regurgitated thru the engine along with the air and gas. If not vented to the intake or down under the car, you'll spread a nice thin layer of oil all over the motor. It then attracts dust and turns a nice shade of gunky black.

If the tank is too full, oil can slosh around when making hard turns or going up/down a steep driveway, get sucked in and then get a nice dark cloud of smoke out the exhaust. You also oil up your plugs.

Nope...non of that here just the main breather that goes to the case , then one that goes from the tank to an overflow tank with a breather type filter on it.

Post a pic....if it vents in the engine bay you'll just oil up the whole area and be a dust and sludge collector. But...hey, it's YOUR ride....

I kept a breather like that on my turbo....kept meaning to re-route it and had the waste gate get stuck....spayed oil all over. Live and learn....had the lines and stuff sitting on a shelf, I was just lazy.

I pulled the intake off to seal air leaks and did the clean up then....long job to do something I shouldn't have had to do if I had simply taken 10 minutes to do it right the first time.

Here is my setup. I vent from the tank to this lil catch tank. which then vents through that filter dohickie? If this is not correct please let me know....


Click to view attachment

At least it's not in the engine bay. You'll probably have some residue under that filter after a hard run....

lotsa weight and expense in that vent setup...

I don't recall - is the only vent exit the fitting out of the filler neck, or is there one at the tank too?

So I should be running from the catch back into the airfilter housings?

Well there is one that vents from the crankcase to the tank, then the one that vents from the filler neck....which runs into the above setup. It is the way the PO had the tank set up only without the catch tank just that filter off the filler neck. The catchtank and filter + hose wieghs about 1-2 lbs MAX

if it's a street car, you may have issues with the emissions guys about venting directly to the air. if it's a track car, it's pretty much the way it's done.

except you don't need braided hose for a vent, and you don't need a $25 tube hose end and 3 fittings to connect to the filter. but it's your car, do what makes you happy!

These were pieces I had left over from a lot I bought...so it was no $$$ off my back as it came as a package....It is overkill no doubt!...LOL BTW after the few drives I have been on I fear that the street end of this ride will be few and far between...It is meant to go fast and RACE! Historic tags and no E missions!

Some empirical info.
Mikey has it right, fully warmed engine, half way to the full mark.

In street ops, your catch tank will prolly remain dry. At AX, I'll often pump 4-8 OZ of oil into the catch tank....slosh in the oil tank seems to get caught up in the windage.
I put the breather filter goodie *in the catch tank*, then vented the lid (a plastic mixed nuts jar). Your set up may drool oil onto that pretty paint.

Scary...ain't it?