I purchased a 1974 2.0 non runner. The shop said FI issues. I've been reading the forum and found Daves site with trouble shooting the FI system. Alot of the checks are done at the connector end of the ECU connector.

1. Problem the ECU is a remanufactured unit and the cable is connected INSIDE the ECU.

2. What are the Values for just the individual parts?


So far the Battery read 0.00 Volts, it's on the charger now. It started taking about 6 amps though, might be salvagable.

All the Ignition wires are miles to long and cracked. The boots blocking the tin are melted and hard as rocks.

Wire routing is non-existantant. They are all over the place running in and around, under or though everything.

Fuel lines look to have been replaced not long ago.


Ideas???

Thanks

Smitty

All the FI info you need can be found at Brad Anders site. Start with the basics, do you have spark and fuel pressure. Get a good battery and avoid doing key on checks and cranking using a battery charger. To remove the connector from the ecu remove the screw on the cable retaining bracket, slide the cover off and then pull the connector off.

I think I would check the simple/obvious items before digging into the ECU based on what some shop said.

New:

Cap
Rotor
Plug wires
Plugs
Points
Fresh Gas

Now, does it have spark?
Can you hear the fuel pump kick on when you turn the key on?
Are you getting fuel?
Check your grounds, especially where the injectors ground to the block and the body to transmission strap.


And of course....

The most important item that comes to mind after the basics is the fuel injection harness. Most are rotten, and bad connecters.

After you have done everything BiltZ said, I would invest in a new injector

harness( it can be gotton from a member here) Then check the grounds again, did

I say Check the grounds. Keep use informed allong the way and soon

it will be running as good as new. Dave

Well I had a change to go work on the soon to be running car.

I printed the sheet from Brads site and wrote down the values, some may be a little off, but I don't know that it will matter. Here they are.

TSI - 300 ohms @ 68 F - 260 @ 70 (Gotta Love SoCal Weather)
Injector 1-4 - <3 ohms - measured 3 ohms
MPS Primary - 90 ohms - 93 ohms
MPS Secondary - 350 ohms - 345 ohms
Accelerator Pump contact Track #1 - 10 hits - My Voltmeter read ZERO
Accelerator Pump contact Track #2 - 10 hits - My Voltmeter read ZERO
ECU Ground - > 0.5ohms - 0.00
Trigger 1 & 2 - alternating Continuity - Both OK
ECU power source from Main - >1 Volt - measured > 1 volt
TPS Idle - >0.5 ohms closed infinity while open - passed
Start Signal from IGN switch - Should be <12 volts - Battery 13.14v measured 10.38
ECU to Fuel Pump - >0.5 ohms - measured .789 ohms
CHT > 2k ohms @ 68F - 1.0 ohms

So I plugged it back in, replaced the battary, Cleaned the Chassey to battary ground with a little dielectric grease before tighting and attempted to start her with some gas down the trottle body.


Nothing for a couple of cranks than a couple of pops almost starts. Cap and Rotor look New, points I didn't take out and check, I will. Needs new spark plug wires that being ordered. Some Fresh Gas and this dog might Hunt.

the accelerator pump test I'm not sure if I did it right, the start signal is really low, will they matter?

All the vacume hoses ends look cracked and are not connected in some places. A diagram would be nice and a one stop shop for a complete hose kit would be nice.

EDIT - What kind of Spark Plug NGK or Bosch what number? For Plug Wires get the Stock, 7mm or 8mm Magnecor?

Smitty


PS She drew first blood, removing a bolt on the battery strap. Geez

When you first turn the key on you should hear the fuel pump buzz for a second or two. If not then you need to troubleshoot fuel delivery.

The D-Jet is really sensitve to vacuum leaks so you need to get that sorted out quickly. The stuff that goes to the air filter is not important but the stuff to the plenum and throttle body are. Pelicanparts.com has good diagrams.

There is a cluster of ground points just under the airfilter on the passenger side toward the rear. Good idea to clean them up. BE VERY CAREFULL WHEN REMOVING ANY ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR. They can be tight. Pull on the connector not the wire!

Check that the MPS still holds a vacuum. That is one of the essentials. Same with the pot on the distributor although it is not as critical.

It's hard but don't be too eager to light it off. Do the basics first - you will save a lot of time in the long run.

Replace all your vacuum lines for sure. Check out Auto Atlanta for a full precut kit. The kit comes with all the vacuum lines and a diagram to install them. About 80 bucks for the kit. I just bought one, good stuff.

Vacume Lines, Spark Plugs and Wires have been ordered. Should arrive by Thursday/Friday. Saturday we'll have to take a real attempt at starting her up.

Has anyone found a method of keeping how much money will be "invested" into their cars from the Wife? Maybe I need a second job and seperate bank account. That could hold me over until Tax Time '09 when she would find out.

Thanks for the lead on the Vacume Lines, I was about to McMaster Carr them.



Smitty

lol. I reckon there are only two approachs here. Get her hooked so she doesn't care or send her back to mom

I'm lucky - the car has seniority on the wife.

Do you know how long this car has been sitting? If it has been a while there is some stuff you can probably work on while waiting for the plugs and wires.

I tried the "sending her back" method. Her Mom asked if I had the reciept. LOL

It sat for about 2-3 months. I'll be flushing the brake lines, Fuel Lines, cleaning up the engine bay.

Seems like there is always something to do with a car. LOL

I have some rust in odd places, I'll have to get some photos, for suggested repairs. On top of the passenger front quarter panel is one.

Smitty

2-3 months is nothing - you should be good to go. Just listening to some of your descriptions makes me think this car has not had stellar maintenance. Might want to give the brakes a good going over. Not sure if you are familiar with the venting clearance associated with the rear brakes. You might want to go through the process just to make sure things are ok inside the caliper. If you find brake fluid inside the adjuster holes then you'll need to rebuild.

This can't be stressed to much.
Check the basics first.
Ask me how I know?
Ok here goes.
Last year while driveing down the road, hit a small bump.
Car promply died.
Had it towed home.
Spent two days swaping dizzy and other parts.
Finially checked the condenser.
The wire broke.
Cheap fix would saved alot of time.
John

I don't know what kind of shape the Brakes are in. That is the first thing after having a running motor, will be the BRAKES.

I hate using the car in front of mines braking system. It more costly than fixing my own.

Smitty

One thing I am finding out is that owning an older Porsche and repairing/upgrading can make everyday like CHRISTMAS.

Pelican Parts is my new best friend. Parts ordered - Parts recieved.

Just got the New Spark Plugs, Plug wires (7mm Magnecor), Points and Condensor.

Soon my All New Vacume Lines will be here from Auto Atlanta.

This weekend we should be able to start her up. I'm hoping.

Smitty

Pooked around some more this weekend and today. Points and condensor checked out ok. I will be replacing them anyway. The silly little phillips screw holding the Condensor on is holding me up.

For changing points does everyone just pull the dizzy, replace and time them.

Still no Spark.

Looking around on the underside of the body it appears that at one point the PO had welded in some extra metal. I'll have to get pictures to find out what has been done.

Right now I hate Kodak camera software.

Smitty

when i was married, i always kept my own bank account ...
Andy

You have to set your timing anyway so why not make life easy. And while its out you can lube the advance plates. And check the trigger points. And ...
Hmm - maybe not such a good idea.

BTW there are only two bolts that hold the engine cover on. Makes life so much easier just to take the thing off when you are doing this much trouble shooting on the engine.

More poking around. The Copper Braided line in the dizzy has an extension wire added to it. It would appear that the Briaded line broke and someone soldered the copper wire to it. This doesn't look like a replaceable part. Hmmmmm

I'll be pulling the Dizzy tomorrow and cleaning and lubing the plates. Looks like alot of old grease here and there inside.

Smitty

that point plate can be replaced rather easily. rich at highperformancehouse
in cali has some. they tend to stick after a while. If you pop the bearing out
of it, you'll be able to clean where the 2 circular parts connect.

She started tonight.

After tracking down everything, pulling the Dizzy to clean EVERYTHING" new points and condensor. I attempted to start her up. Nothing.

Started cleaning up for the night, looked down to see the condensor wire not attached. Ok attach it attempt to start, nothing, put it on the wrong side of coil. Reattached to correct side, Dizzy loose as I don't own a timing light right now. Attempt to start, nothing. Continue to clean and remembered that someone said to remove the TACH wire from the coil. So I did. Attempt to start, motor started turning faster and faster, a good sign.

Get out reach in and give her a twist. SHE FIRED, ran really, really rough. Rev a couple of time, jump out and start twisting. She started to idle higher and smooth out.

I was doing the Chicken Dance in the drive way when the wife pulled in. EAR TO EAR GRIN, Shes alive. First words out of my wifes mouth, it smokes alot.

Sorry for the long post I'm just really excited.

Now what does removing the TACH wire have to do with the price of tea in China? How do I repair that.

All the lights work. That's a +. The low beams dont work, one high beam does?????? Could be as simple as new head lights.

Did I mention that I was excited. soon

Smitty

yeeee haa!!!!!! Good on ya Smitty!

Tach - could be as simple as being on the wrong side of the coil.

Congrats!! The headlights each have thier own fuses, and seperate high and low beam fuses. It may be that simple. If not, they each have their own grounds. Clean them.

Grounds-------- I may just braze in a solid Copper Bar running the length of the car. LOL

I'll be checking these today.

And getting a GOOD Fire Extengisher.

Having a running motor is better than making Vrooom Vrooooom noises.

Smitty

Congratulations on the big leap in progress!!

for the headlights check fuses, next on the list is the relay above the fuse panel. you should hear feel it clicking when you actuate the lever.

k