problematic relay board - can not get power for fuel pump from side of board to the other. did search and note some have stripped and rebuilt them. so does anyone:
1. have an inexpensive rebuilt option;
2. know of a service or shop that does this;
3. have a fix to simply wire around problem?

thanks in advance for any help.

Mine still works but the bottom black sealing material is dry and coming off. It is only a matter of time before something goes wrong with mine. I look forward to an answer to these questions.

Sean here redoes them and can answer any questions you may have 770 427 2844 ext 27

have you done any trouble shooting yet? A bit of poking around with a voltmeter can often time locate the problem. Probabilities are pretty good that it is not the PCB. The relays or the fuse/fuse holder are the common culprits. If you need some help I'd be happy to step you through it.

get a picture of the current paths in the relay board (look on pelican electrical diagrams or workshop manual) and do continuity checks between terminals. i had a fuel pump delevery issue and determined it was not the relay board but the pump (it could have been that the pump was OK but the board bad)

The Haynes Manual has lots of good relay board diagrams covering all 914 years. Repairs can be made on the underside with new soldiered wire, but be careful getting all that gunk off the back. Some racers wire the fuel pump seperately, some cars use the extra switch as an anti-theft mechanism. Jumping it is OK for diagnostics, but make sure the fix is roadworthy. I ended up having a bad voltage regulator from rust and the rest was good after all contacts were cleaned and sanded rust-free. Good luck

Found a problem on mine when I had the engine out for cleaning and sealing. The fuse holder on the relay board is rivited to the underside where the trace goes to the next point. The rivet was loose and made contact some of the time. It may even pass an ohmmeter test, and still can break down when asked to pass current. I wire brushed as well as I could, then soldered the fuse holder to the rivet. Been 2 years and no further problem yet.
Tom

very much appreciate all the responses. and so i have/will:
1. left a message for sean;
2. bought replacement relays;
3. ask anyone here for detail on wiring around board.
many thanks.

CSOB hint #1. If your headlight motors are working you have a source of two known good relays. They are the same as the ones on the relay board. You can just swap them in for the fuel pump and master power relays and know if you need to buy new ones.

CSOB hint #2. Old relays sometime can be brought back to life through terminal cleaning. Perhaps this is a RCSOB hint

Probably one of the first things you should check is the fuse block. Remove power from your coil (to avoid the chance of frying your points while troubleshooting). Key on. With Volts selected on your multimeter measure from ground to each side of the fuse - it should be whatever your battery voltage is on both sides of the fuse.

Maybe this helps?

thanks for suggestions.

to be precise the black wire that seems to run the pump comes in one side of relay box but exits the other end with no power. we can jump it at the relay to get it to work. but in short that is the problem. so can we just by pass the box ??

Damn Jeff... You keep coming up with the nost incredible documentation!!! THANKS!

Maybe this can help tooClick to view attachment

and this

um what engine are we talking about here? DJet or LJet?

i assume since it is a 1974 2.0 it would be a DJET?

also thanks to all for the diagrams, they are great!!!

hmm. You do understand that the pump only runs for a second when you key on. It then stops until the ecu detects that the engine is turning over. You can over ride this by removing the 4 pin plug at the back left of the relay board and jumpering pin 3 to ground. Then the pump will run continuously.

Isn't there a negative issue with keeping the fuel pump running continuously? Or maybe not, with the return line providing pressure relief. What are your thoughts?

sorry, i have not made it clear that i have converted this car to carbs. also did the switch to correct rotary fuel pump,etc.

So maybe you could tell us how you wired this up and what changes you made
in wiring including any jumpers and the location and colors of
all the wires you tapped into.

If we know that, we can easily help you locate where your loss of power is
or offer a simple work around to get you up and going again.

--- bill

That's how I have my car wired--except I've added a Ford "Fuel Pump Inertial Switch" (FPIS) to kill the pump in case of an accident. It's simply wired in between pin 3 and the ground. The FPIS can also be "popped" if I want to keep the car from being started (at least they'd have to look for the "problem").

made no changes in wiring other than ground wire for new fuel pump. was running ignition through MSD before i made switch to carbs and am still now doing this. my problem is getting power (for fuel pump) from one end of box to the other. so looking for good fix to box or how do i wire around it.

Was the fuel pump running before or are you just now finishing up the carb conversion and trying to get it to work?

You also mentioned a black wire coming in and
exiting the board. Perhaps you meant a black/red wire? That is what normally
goes to the fuel pump.


You said that if you jump it at the relay it works.
Which relay socket pins were jumpered?
Depending on which pins you jumpered, you have eliminated quite a bit
of the failure points in the relay board.
If you look at the board as it is pictured in the technical article,
are you jumpering the fuel pump relay socket holes at 6'oclock & 3'oclock or
6'oclock & 12'oclock?

A few other things to check:

Do you have both the Fuel pump and Power Supply relay installed?
If using the ground jumper as described in the technical article you need the
power supply relay installed as it feeds power to the fuel pump relay coil.

As pictured in the technical article, Is there a fuse in the lower fuse holder?
(shown in the photo as a red fuse)

When the ignition is on if you remove/install the ground jumper in the
T4b connector pin III can you feel/hear the fuel pump relay "click"?

ah - I wondered about that when you started to talk about the black wire. You can disregard most of what I was talking about - I was in DJet mode.

Steve's got the right idea - you have to ground that pin 3. His idea of using a safety switch is great - performs the same task as the DJet ecu

Another thought occurred to me.
When you say "other than ground wire" are you saying a ground for pump
are are you talking about a ground wire that is plugged into T4b connector
pin III.

I had assumed you meant the T4b pin III ground wire. If that isn't what you meant.
See the technical article on this subject:
Fuel Pump wiring for Carbs

--- bill

very much appreciate all the suggestions. Unfortunately am not smart enough to understand all which has been offered and so i remain stuck. since i have now replaced all the fuses and relays believe the problem to be in the board itself.

So unless i get any advice to the contrary, tonight i will pull the board, chip away the underneath coating and use a voltmeter to test all the connections. any suggestions on how best to do this would be great and again thanks to all for the help.

We can help you debug this, but you need to be our "eyes" and "hands".
Don't let this get you bummed out.
We do need a bit more information to help isolate the problem.

The biggest question we still need to know is how you have wired in your
fuel pump and what you have tried.

Are you referencing/using the online technical article?
Here is the link to it: FuelPump wiring for Carbs
It shows a simple way to hook up a fuel pump for carbs and has some
really good photos which identify and label relays, connectors & wires.

If you scroll that WEB page down, you will see a photo of a relay board.
That is the picture that has the locations that I was referencing in the
very specific questions I asked in post #23 and post #25.

From the information you've provided so far, it isn't clear that it is a relay
board problem yet.
It's not worth tearing into the relay board looking for something
before other possibilities are ruled out.

Should it turn out to be a relay board issue you don't have to chip away any
of the undercoating in order to test the relay board,
so I wouldn't mess with any undercoating yet.
Also, a big clue on relay board failure can be how the undercoating looks
before you remove it. If there are open areas or melted areas, that area
should be looked at very closely because the rivets in those locations
may have oxidized or worked loose. But again, I wouldn't touch the
relay board, until other possibilities have been ruled out.

If you are totally stuck and want to talk directly, PM me
and we can exchange phone numbers. I'll be happy to help
you out. Just let me know.


--- bill