Jake and Co.
I've got my finger poised over the "checkout" button in the Type IV Store for the Super Valve Train Upgrade Kit, but I've watched the ppt and still have questions. I have decided that yours is the best product out there for stock upgrade and refurb and I've read alot about how folks have f'd up by not sticking to your recommendations. So, help me to get this right the 1st time.
Here's the scope:

Have: Operational 1.8L w/60K on it (L-Jet, of course)
Also Have: 2 - 2.0L motors to part, including D-Jet injection system
Budget ~ $1500

Want: RAT inspired 2.0L daily driver (i.e. more HP, more MPG, cooler ops) using the 1.8 block, 2L P&C's and Heads and your valve train kit.
Considering: Upgrade to 96mm P & C's

Your valve train kits come highly recommended as does sending you the flywheel and crank for lightening and balancing. If I purchase P&C's, which stroke will fit my 1.8 block? What more, less or different do you recommend within my budget?

My direct contact info is available in my TypeIV Store profile, username is Rick L.
All input from the forum is welcome, pics will come when the build begins!

You might try "calling" him on his own forum...

damn details!

yep, posted there too

I'd kind of like to see the information that Jake provides, as well as the progress being made on the upgrade.

Will do. I'm hoping to start the pull this weekend. The plan is to yank the motor, begin dis-assembly and cleaning, and figure out what all needs replacing. While the motor is out we're going to scour the engine bay and fix the hell hole and battery tray and assess any other rust damaged areas. I'm stoked!

If you're keeping it L-jet I wouldn't do much as that FI doesn't like big changes.

I'd look at the 2.0 crank and rods with 96's it would get you a 2056cc

Yes 96's will fit a 1.8 but it's different pistons (pin hight) from the 2.0, so you couldn't slap in a 2.0 crank later.

Balancing is good... But I wouldn't lighten a fly on a small engine daily driver.

Jake posted this on his website a few weeks back.

So tell me... serious question... in your own words, why do you need a "Super Valve Train Upgrade Kit"? I mean, what's to be gained?

Also, are you going to use the crank and rods from one of those 2.0's? Building on the 1.8 or one of the other 2.0 cases/short blocks?

Good point on the flywheel, Mark. My intent is to keep the 1.8 short block and transplant the 2.0l crank. If $$ permits I'll pick up the 96's, else the 2.0 P&C's will go on. The heads will come off the 2.0l. As the heads need rebuilding, I figure the valve train upgrade kit will make the thing more reliable and easier to maintain and this seems to be the soul of Raby's power train with regards to power and efficiency.

My concern with the 96's is that, apparently, there are 2 strokes: 64 and 71. I wondered which is appropriate for the 1.8 case.

Evan, thanx for digging up the link for me, it was helpful.

Please, correct me if I'm wrong anywhere. I posted here and there for exactly this reason. I'm an amature engine builder and your input (pl) is crucial.

Thanx!

By the way, the engine came out last night...thanx Crash914!

You can do it. It's just nuts and bolts. Take your time and double check everything.

Roger that! I'll start by double checking the plumbing.....on the tap!

After reading this, I'll keep my 1.8 heads (provided they're in good shape and maybe exlude the "super" from the valve train kit.
Thanx again!

Strokes are 66mm and 71mm all the cases are the same except some early 1.7 don't have the castings for the windage tray and of course the bus cases have some extra (carb, oilfill, pump...) holes.

Except for the cam the valve train has nothing to do with extra power...it's used to handle the extra power (rpm's and lift).
I've used small performance cams with the stock valve train with no issues.

I would stop, read all you can on stock rebuilds and performance engines.

Your budget of $1500 is hardly good enough for a low buck stock rebuild.
What I would do is a stock rebuild of the 1.8, get it running and sort your car... THEN start saving and putting together all the goodies for a performance 2.0.

the 1.8l case will take the 2.0l crank and rods no problem. Use the 1.8l heads and have them rebuilt using 42x36 valves.
Use Jakes 9550 cam/lifters and the valve train upgrade and set up the geometry.
the 911 swivel feet stop valve tip wear...

should have 100-110hp done.....96's will gain you a few more hp's....

Ljet will have to have the AFM adjusted when you are done using a LM1 to reset the AFR..not hard.

I have read that his favorite case is the 1.7, but you can use any of em...

I'm less interested in a performance motor than a reliable driver with a little extra poop. It looks like a standard 2L conversion with a good cam, lifters and maybe basic valve train may be the way to go.

Would the Djet be better suited for the 96's? I have both injection systems and no desire to buy carbs.

My motor (that just went back in the 914 and runs again!) is 2056 buit on 1.8 case/heads. Crank ground to 71mm and 2.0 rods and 96mm P/Cs. Carb'd and it runs pretty damn good. All done years ago by the PO BTW.

I think that's exactly where I want to finish. I just can't afford to drop a G on carbs right now. Til then, I'll put the FI back in. The only question is, which one?

If'n you want a Raby motor and you know what ya want....why are you asking us? We don't know squat.....

Bring cubic mega bucks.....

if you want 96's, i've got some flat tops that are for the 66mm crank that I'm not going to use. They've been installed, but never fired. I also have a gasket kit. Oh, and a complete D-Jet FI setup. (I see you have the D-Jet, also... just tossing out pennies)

That could help keep you under your $1500 budget.

Is that why you're asking us instead of Jake? the budget issue?

I posted here for opinions and experiences. I like the responses I've gotten. I have a good idea of what I want and what I can get away with.

I just ordered the 96mm/71's, but thanx for the offer.

Jake's stuff does tend to run high, but it sounds like they're worth it.

Ah, good deal. I bet they are very much worth it. No question about that.

I hate it when I see a post like this on a forum other than my own, because it is usually an open invitation for my critics to start crap.. Luckily this didn't happen this time.Thanks for that.

I don't do anytyhing at any lesser state that absolutely complete, this is why my priices **seem** to be higher, when they really are not. My procedures won't allow a customer to make a mistake when ordering and won't allow someone to purchase incompatible parts that won't work together, which has always been the downfall of the TIV engine.

A good example of this is my valvetrain kits that are in question here in this thread. Every other company will give you a page of camsjhafts with a couple of specs and a one line description of their applications for that cam. This doesn't take into account the heads, CR, rev range, gearing or atmospheric conditions that the engine will be used in conjunction with- I don't do this. You buy a cam kit from me with all items that are compatible and I call you to consult with you about the rest of the engine so **I** can choose the best cam from my library. I do this because no one else knows mycams beter than I do and because they are not conventional other people can't comprehend them in most instances.

Of course, spur of the moment customers or those wanting instant gratification during an order don't appreciate this and think that my processes are too difficult, so they go elsewhere, get their instant gratification and a failure to go with it...

With my products you will spend more initially, but less in the long run with unparalleled support.everything we sell is used in our own engines sold as Turn Keys and thats backed up by more R&D than most can imagine.

Actually... On the valve train kits specifically, you've got a better deal initially and in the long run. I did some research just to compare prices. apples to apples type comparison, no citrus fruit what-so-ever. For the whole set of parts that *SHOULD* be replaced when doing a cam swap.

That's comparing parts only; then you've got that phone call to the customer to make sure you get the correct grind to them. It just doesn't make sense to buy elsewhere unless someone really really knows what they are doing and is able to source their own parts correctly.

I'm looking forward to seeing how Rick's adventure goes. Seems as if he's off to a good start. =o)

I REALLY dislike selling camshafts and at times I have halted their sales because of all the liability they are surrounded by.. The procedures I have came up with to sell cams has been the only way that I have had good luck with them in the past. When people have a chance to choose incompatible parts- they will.

Again, if this forum is NOT where you want to discuss the issue....go over to that BBS and discuss it.

The opinions expressed here, within the rules are subjective. If the opinions need to be controlled to your liking then the thread can be closed by request of the author or if it goes against a standard where a 3rd party is offended.

I myself have never gotten a straight answer on this subject and thus don't bother anymore.

Good luck in your future sales but don't bust this sites chops because there are critics....

Just MY opinion....

The main reason I started my own site was constant issues with other forums and the questions that came up when people asked simple questions about my parts and I was forced to answer them...

Iver time I have removed myself from other sites more and more because the issues that are started when people accuse me of advertising on sites administered by enthusiasts, for enthusiasts.

It has nothing to do with contriol, I just don't have time to fight, point fingers and apologize..The more notable we become the heavier the critics look to find our faults and thats to be expected.

Didn't mean to "bag" on this site, not at all.

I'm discouraged by the turn in this thread.


I will start a new thread when the engine build begins.

Don't be discouraged.. Things like this post are just a way of life in a close knit, enthusiast based industry where its easy to step on toes, break rules and create critics.

I deal with it everyday, that doesn't make it easier, just more tolerable.

My forums offer the perfect venue for people to ask me commercial grade questions and work very well for most people. Its much better than it was a few years back when I got dragged into 2-3 posts like this one per week!

All I can say is:
No one else knows what we offer better than I do since I created it, tested it and I drive it everyday myself. Others on forums and etc may have experienced it once, but that limited experience doesn't make them anything more than a "User".. They are certainly not qualified to make recommendations for the things I have developed, but I do appreciate their interest in sharing their experiences.

Looks like I know what my "Rant" subject will be on this months radio show- hold on to your hats!

Can you explain to me how the AFM is adjusted for use in a 2056 motor?

Nice! So this weekend... being the 10th of May? (ish)?

Too bad MD is such a long drive... I'd volunteer to come help drop your engine.

'preciate the love! We actually pulled the motor on Friday night. I'll get pics on Thursday and start posting probably this Friday.