the top nut that secures the alt bracket was way loose. the nut that goes on the long alt pivot bolt was gone. no wonder i had an odd noise and couldn't keep the belt tight. easier just to drop the engine and handle a few other tasks at the same time than tear into the tin to get to the fasteners while the engine was in the car.

couple of pictures showing how i secure elect and fuel lines. the 2 rubber clamps are both secured with the same bolt. the holes in the rear tin are the ones for the stock zip ties that everyone seems to love to cut to remove the starter + wire. the fuel line sits in the indent on the rear tin i split and wrapped a vac line to further protect/insulate it. i think it helps with the gas heat soak issue.

how i mounted the breather box. piece of aluminum angle stock, high enough to allow the collected vapors to drain back to the engine. simple, but it works well enough and the engine bay stays relatively clean

gave everything the once over with Oil Eater, rinsed with the hose and wiped it dry.

old skool triad single outlet exhaust. not alot of folks have seen one of these.

my answer to the "where/how do i mount my fuel pump?". cb self regulated low pressure rotary pump. large size chris folley stainless line, stock pump wiring harness, and andy's jumper wire trick. again, simple but it does the job.

edit: the cb pump comes with this metal filter attached to it when you buy it. the piece of hose connecting the filter to the pump is fastened with squeeze type clamps. changing the clamps, at a minimum, is a must do in my book prior to installing the pump. it's not fun with a bunch of fuel in the tank. pump it out or wear it when you try to stick a large golf tee in the line. i did away with the provided filter altogether and am using a stock fi filter, with shouldered ss hose clamps thruout the system, with the filter mounted prior to pump. i have a stock filter bracket that will eventually be mounted on the lower firewall.

not everyone's cup of tea, but i like it. faster than it looks.

k

Kevin .... ya gotta drop it again ...yer tranny attachment nuts and bolts are rusty ... yeeeeech!

Nice yob ..... was it hard to fit in the Neon PT Crusier?

hard to fit what? me or the engine? i fit fine. i have no idea if the engine would. no lattes, soft drinks, food of any kind, etc allowed in the gt. dispossable surgery bootties are provided upon entry.

My error .... I thought you converted the GT to aircooled.

i'll tell ya, if you could put the h.o. turbo engine from the cruiser in a 914, it would be good power in a fairly lightweight package.

k

I thought he was being funny. Shows a nicely laid out engine, and engine

compartment and then the 'PT'.

ron usually IS funny! esp when he exits a corner heading up to mulholland (in a 25mph zone) at speed, only to find what i presumed was a santa barbara county sherrif waiting for him. i'll never forget that. 05' in camarillo was a blast. hard to top it. makes me think of howie. now i'm sad.

Yes it was ... nice guy too. $400 nice

Everytime I go to the shop I get sad ... storing Howies' Suzi for MaryAnn ... miss that bastard a bunch.

i'm also giving a set of W8CC plugs a try. the old ones were a bit darker that i would had liked to have seen but the center electrodes were still clear. carbon build up was not bad at all. i've seen worse out of fi engines.

That looks like fun, KP. You should have called and I could have gotten out of going in and installing sever stuff at work...

While yer in there...

today is a 'thinking about it day'. something went sideways on the edelbrock muffer/header system i put together so there is an interfearance issue with the shield under the truck. remove it or fix the muffler. hate to cut it out. hard to undo. the ebelbrock has a o2 bung installed and i want to buy an LM-1 for tunning. i might do a trans swap. dunno.

Is it back in the car yet? If not let me know, I am available all day Friday. Would like to help out if I can. Let me know.

Jack

My very first post was requesting information about a "Clunking" noise near the front of the engine. I asked if it was related to the chain tensioner (I have a 2.0L 4-banger ).

Turned out the alternator bolt on the engine block was completely missing. That's when I stopped going to mechanics and started performing maintenance myself. Not that I'm any better than the mechanics that were working on my car, but if I'm going to balme anyone, I figured I'd rather blame myself.

jack, i opted for the trans swap. while i was in there...i'll mate it up today. swing by. super clean trans. no sign of leaks of any sort, and is known to be functional. the huge crack on the rod console is absent too.

k

"While I was in there"

Sounds good. I am busy tonight, but I will be around tommorrow.

see you in the am then. no need to call.

k

You too? I have to do that *yet again* tomorrow or Saturday. I've got one tranny in the car and two on the floor.

double check the alt bracket before you install the engine mike. the gear lube and engine oil drained overnight. fill em' up, change the filter and ready to go.

+ 2 to jack engle(championgt1) for enduring my painfully slow engine removal and install. nice to have someone to talk with and the elsusive second set of eyes and hands.

k

Kevin, you were my inspiration... Used an old carb bracket and modified it to hold the puke box. The bracket bolts to one of the top case thru bolts and holds the box at height that all the hoses have gravity draingage. If needed, loosen the bolt and the entire aparatus will swing towards the engine to reduce height clearance when pulling the motor. That is of course if you need to pull the carbs, otherwise just leave it "as is."