hey guys im still a little confused on what the outer "mounts" of my engine bar are supposed to look like on my '76.

When I dropped the engine, the driver side had a block looking thing:

Click to view attachment

and the passenger side just had a bolt. both were bent.
I have not seen ANYTHING like that plastic square thing in the pic in any of my 914 researching or other people's pictures.

I may not be having luck because these may not be "engine mounts" im looking for. Ive already replaced the inner rubber engine mounts, but need to replace whatever goes on the outer part of the bar. Is it just that bolt and a nut? Where can I get it and what is it actually called? and what the hell is that plastic block thing lol?

there should be one of these on both side. bolt comes up thru the bar and attaches to the pictured item. usually they're all bent up. new ones are avail at the bird. pretty cheap. i have no idea what that square thing is.

k

you know that square thing, was kinda nice because it had an indentation on the bottom that straddled that metal piece, so it kept it from spinning as i undid the bolt...

so basically its a nut on top and bolt through the mid? socket wrench on top and socket wrench on the bolt when reinstalling?

sounds simple enough

'73 up outer mounts were solidly bolted to the body. Rubber mounts were on engine bar.

'69-'72 .. engine was solid mount to bar and outer mounts were cushioned.

If that block was on the outer end ... somebody was stupid.

Never seen anything like that before.

i "think" the big rectangular solid thing is a solid transmission (not engine) mount. 76 engine mounts should be the same as 73-.... round rubber cylinder with bolts out both faces. the mounting console (?) just takes a bolt thru the console and through the engine bar.

you got it. awkward angle on top. leaving the 2 smaller nuts a little loose lets the solid mount float around a bit for an easier install. don't forget to tighten them. btdt.

k

ah cool.
yea i didnt think that plastic thing belonged there. i found some other "stupid" things along the way so.. you hit that nail on the head lol

ill have to check Pelican for those bolts now, they come with the nut too or will any nut work? anyone ever double nut it? (for security)

here's another pic of it:

Click to view attachment

from that pic, does it look like i have the right metal piece "thing" on there or is that wrong too? looks different from that one that you posted.

should i order those as well? (what are they called?)

all of the fasteners and bolts should be able to be sourced @ home depot, or your local true value hardware store. i think the sizes are provided in pelicans part dicription. the AA catalog denotes the correct sizes as well. for washingtonians, tacoma screw products, and mclendons are great sources for hardware.

try part # 914 375 181 00. the big bolt is a HEX HD M10x85. iirc the smaller ones are just 13mm nuts, bolts, lock and flat washers. about 1 1/2" long.

Maybe this will help:

Click to view attachment
As you can see, the outer bolts should fasten the "Engine Carrier" (9) directly to the frame. The inner engine mount (20) secures the engine to the "Engine Carrier".

Here's a picture of the motor mount (20):
Click to view attachment

From your pictures, it seems as though the PO was a bit confused...

yes... yes he was lol

hey eric do you think you could post the part number for
17,19,11,20

EDIT: ill just copy that web address and look em up myself.

thanks for the help! much appreciated!!

Take a look at this link:

https://techinfo.porsche.com/techinfo/pdf/e...914_KATALOG.pdf

This is the PET that includes pictures and part numbers. Select section 119 (engine carrier) and it will take you this page.

Good luck and let me know if you have problems accessing this PET diagram.

cool i searched for the part numbers on pelican
seems like 11, the metal piece, is a special order part...
17, the bolt, comes up under the 911 section with a generic picture.. is this the right one (im worried about the length):

"Bolt M10 X 85, 911 Turbo 1986-89 Brand: Genuine Porsche"

On Pelican Parts, use this item number: 039-199-231-M260

comes up as the rubber inner mounts

Thems is the ones. If you want to pay an additional $80 a pair, try this number: 914-375-035-00-OEM

Actually search on PP for this part number and then click on the description. It will take you to the page that shows both the OEM part and the replacement part.

Are you looking for just the bolt?

hey eric, i already have those inner rubber mounts, what i need is the outside engine mount bolt

yep, jd, all i need is a pair of the long bolts for the outer ends of the bar

the bolt is a bolt. porsche, genuine, oem. too funny

ive thought about somethin.. on both of my 914's, the one i dropped the engine out of the bolts were bent.. and on the other with the engine still in, i can see how the bar is not flush with the console mount meanin it is bent as well.

has anyone come up with a way to prevent this? thicker bolt?
if you put a rubber bushing or something between the top of the bar and the engine mount, would that reduce vibration to the body?

contact with a hard object does the bending. the fix is avoid hard objects. that's why the nut goes on top. if it gets all mashed up on a 'hard object' you normally have to cut the bolt in half to remove it. you want the bolt to bend, not shear.

k

so the bent bolts isn't a "common occurrence" really... just a sign of a bad driver? lmao

for the record they were both bent prior to my ownership

now.. about those bolts lol

bolt gets bent because of hitting speed bumps, curbs, racoons..... 'possums.....

you can use an sae bolt and nut since it's "just a bolt" as stated above.

Sorry, my bad. It's item number 17: Hexagon-head bolt M10 X 85. I get these generic metric bolts from Home Depot. They're a little cheaper than Porsche

The Porsche part number is : N 010 472 4.

The washer that goes between the nut and the bracket piece is not completely round, the sides are trimmed to get it to fit in the channel of the bracket. If you don't want to take 10 minutes with a Dremel (or 30 seconds with an angle grinder!) then you can order the "real thing".

The nut that goes onto that bolt is a "self-locking" nut, possibly a Nyloc nut? Those are a little harder to get than standard Metric nuts, but not a lot.

I would suggest getting the "real thing" for the bracket; I would worry that if I made it myself I would make them out of metal that was too thin, or not get the size quite right, or... But then, it's easier for me to buy than to fabricate.

--DD

do you know if those brackets are available dave through your store dave and possibly what the wait time would be to get them in if they're imported?

so home depot will have those bolts? ill make a trip later today!

i still have the original nuts so ill take em with me when i go to get the bolts

and just to clarify, there's a washer on the bolt head side and on the nut side (in the "channel")?

sounds good. confusion seems to be waivering
thanks everyone for finally gettin me clear on this.. that damn plastic square thing really messed me up

sites with parts diagrams are your best friend.

auto atlanta

pelican parts

come to mind......

Has anyone ever used a 911 mount ?

Our catalog does show them as available. Don't know the lead time on them; check with Glenn@pelicanparts ; he's tied into the distribution end of things.




No washer that I recall between the bolt head and the motor mount bar. From top to bottom, I believe it goes:
- Nut
- Washer (cut on the sides)
- U-channel
- Mount bar
- Bolt head


The 911 motor mounts work for the early cars, with the rubber outboard mounts and the solid inboard ones. They won't work so well for the late motor mount setup like we've been talking about.

--DD

I have done the early set up on a later engine bar so yuou can use the 911 sport engine mounts on the outboard side and the stock rubber or the Jwest nylon mounts on the inboard side.

It just requires shorting the ends of the top side of the engine bar approx. 1/2" to 5/8"

What Grade bolts does Home Depot carry? If you pick up the ones in the bins I would think they would rust, also I would worry about the strength of the bolt, lot of weight and vibration, would not want to be driving and have one snap.

what's the up side to having rubber outboard and inboard mounts? other than spending more than you have too.

I use Home Depot for temporary and non-structural fasteners. For example, I recently removed my rockers for cleaning and inspection. I re-attached the rockers using stainless steel screws from Home Depot (I didn't want to use rivits as I want to be able to re-inspect the roocker areas on a yearly basis).

Any permanent structural bolts, such as engine or transmission carriage bolts, really should be at least at the same strength rating as the bolt being replaced. I always use OEM bolts for these structural areas. Maybe they are a few bucks more, but why take a chance?

Here's a link to a good article regarding automotive bolts:
http://www.autobodypro.com/tektips/articles/nutsnbolts.htm

For temporary situations, I use what's available -and Home Depot is available just about anytime.

Eric

Just found out the original motor mounts are shot on my wife's '71 (1.7L)

I haven't checked the transaxle mounts yet, but I'm sure they'll probably be in the same condition (centers are cracked bad and falling out)

I do have a few [spare] sets of 911 mounts that are in pretty good condition ... so, no modifications are needed - just bolt them in and go ?

That's a Weltmeister sold transmission mount made out of polyurethane w/ a brass plated mounting plate. As seen here on Pelican Parts: http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/...4-6%20(1970-72)

Daniel (Dlo) is correct. That's a Weltmeister solid poly tranny mount. I have a set that I bought years ago and never used. I just didn't care for the way they were configured. When used as tranny mounts the poly block would compress to some degree in compression, but in tension the through bolt would act as a solid restraint.

Using them as engine bar mounts was an interesting application.

Yup. Theoretically they drop right in both to the motor mount pods in front. No, I haven't tried it myself.

--DD

they will drop in and line up with the mounting hole, however you must shorten the ends of the engine bar 1/2'' to 5/8'' works very well

Interesting. I checked Pelican, and it states: "Note that the 1970-72 914 can also use the 911 Sport Mount as replacements for the original motor mounts.", but doesn't says anything about the need to modify the mounting bar

Which dimension needs to be shortened?

Length (width)?, or height?

if you have a side shifter engine bar the ends of the bar were the bolts go thru that mount to the 911 sport mount has to be shortened 1/2'' to 5/8''

Hey John, our '71 is completely stock, tail-shift trans with the tail-shift type engine bar ...

I'll be comparing all the mount dimensions shortly ... still need to locate the 911 ones out in the garage somewhere ... didn't find them after searching for an hour last night



I guess I'm still not clear on where the bar needs modified - are you saying the driver's side on a side-shift bar needs to be shortened length-wise 1/2 ~ 5/8 inward?

... and, is it only required for the side-shift type bars? (mod not required if it's a stock tail-shift type bar?)

The short version:

Use the stock solid metal outboard mounts on a 73-76 car. No shortening of anything required.

You can use the 911 engine mounts (or any of their equivalent replacements, like the "sport mounts") on the outboard ends of the 70-72 motor mount bar. No modification of anything needed.

You could, if you really felt the need, use the 911 mounts on the outboard ends of the 73+ bar, but you have to shorten the round parts that the bolts go through. Not worth the bother IMO. (Clay has also said something about flipping the mounts upside down instead of shortening the bolt tube.) The stock solid outboard mounts are brain-dead simple and work just fine. To me, that says there's no point in changing over.

--DD

AHEM!

You all done now? Dave's RIGHT! And this conversation is dangerously lacking in "the right stuff"! Early cars have the crossbar mounted solidly to the engine, and can use the 911 rubber mounts out on the ends, in place of the 914 part. LATE cars use rubber mounts to attach the crossbar to the engine, and a piece of channel material out on the ends, mounting the mount solidly to the body. YOU DO NOT NEED THE RUBBER OUTER MOUNT. Why would you EVER want to mount the bar to both the engine and the body in rubber? If I may say so, and I may, it's STUPID! In fact, some people, not caring about things like noise, vibration, and potential damage to the engine case, mount BOTH ends solidly. With the exception of the 10mm bolts on the outer end, as well as the 8mm bolts that hold the inner and outer mounts to the body and to the engine case, there are NO PARTS interchangeable between the 2 styles of mounts. NOTHING! And they're NOT a "mix-n-match". Why we have to deal with incorrect motor mount information every few weeks is beyond me. The FIRST replies to the question should have sent the guy down the right path, and the drivel following should never have been posted ............

I have plenty of cross bars to replace the ones you cut and then discover you screwed up. $100 each.

The Cap'n

Thank you Dave


... and thank you John

Turning the bar upside down does not work, beside taking a 1/2'' off the end of side shifter engine bar is not rocket science that you could screw it up!

I've done it to mine because my stock mount were shot from being old and I found it to be a big improvement.

As far as I'm concerned nothing is incorrect if it's a improvement. It has caused no damage and has greatly reducted vibration over the stock units.

I'm having a difficult time envisioning this "mod". Pix, please ..............

The Cap'n