This past weekend I installed a thru body H&H brand 19mm front sway bar in my 75 chassis I'm converting to a /6. I am running 911 Boge struts up front and Koni shocks in the rear with 140lb. springs. The sway bar has four adjustment holes, the instructions state to start with the softest ( farthest from pivot ). I installed it useing the 2nd hole from the end so the next firmness level. My car is still a long ways from being a driver but what can I expect with the bar at this setting? According to the install instructions the setting I have picked gives 742 lbs./in. of resistance/force. So you guys that know what you're doing explain to me when are you adjusting the bars and to what level do you go? I'm being told my combo should be a good street/AX setup. My bars on my 911 are not adjustable so this is new to me so talk to me like I'm a 10 year old

if the car is tail happy, tighten the front bar. if the car understeers or pushes, loosen the front bar

them numbers don't mean much. there are soooo many factors that play into this. have you cornerweighted the car? rideheight? LSD? sticky tires? wider track?
the list goes on and on.

basically, what you do is you get the car running, get the rideheight you want, corner balance it, get it aligned and then you take it out on a skidpad.

you use the swaybar to finetune the handling of the car. it's impossible to say how your car will handle until you actually go out and drive it.

start at the softest position (furthest towards the front of the car).

- if the car pushes (understeer) get heavier springs in the rear or add a rear sway bar
- if the car is tail-happy (oversteer) tighten the front bar (moving it towards the rear) until the car handles neutral

Andy

If you want to delve into it deeply enough, the force exerted on a wheel in a corner can be calculated ... called loading. It's been 20 years since I did the calculations, so I'm not going to try and describe the process 'cause I don't remember.

By knowing the loading, the diameter of the bar and length of the arm needed can be calculated to limit body roll to a specificed amount, with the ultimate purpose being maintaining the largest tire patch possible in contact with the surface at all times.

And holes in the arms with a fixed point on the "A" arm in front are not the whole story. For maximum effectiveness, an attachment with equal holes should be on the "A" arm so that the droplink remains vertical to the horizontal plane of the "A" arm and swaybar arm at all times.

Yep, I have enough coffee now ...........

Edit: Or you could buy an F1 car with strain sensors on the suspension and sit in the pits and read the output on a laptop.

a stock anti-sway bar sure makes things simple. rebush it and forget it.

k