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jonferns
I've been spending alot of my free time doing some detailing work in the wheel wells while the car was up on jackstands awaiting a replacement fuel pump. The idea was to detail the four wheel wells. On the fronts I was left with large dark spots where there was a thick buildup of road crud; the paint isn't chipped in those areas, and the spots come out when I scrape at them with my fingernail, but the spot is just too large to remove all of it that way. I was looking to see if anyone else has dealt with something like this. Maybe some sort of rubbing compound will contain just enough abrasives to remove it without harming the paint underneath? All in all, not bad for almost 40 year old paint in a vulnerable spot.

Also, the struts are left with some spots after cleaning them, what could I use to clean them up. Pat, think that "simichrome" would be a good idea to use on them?

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment
jonferns
And heres a pic of the strut

Click to view attachment
1970 Neun vierzehn
J,
Wow, looking good in the wheel wells. Was there undercoating, rustproofing or sound deadening material in there, or just road grime?
Don't use Simichrome on anything painted, it'll dull the paint and eventually abrade through it. I use it only on chrome surfaces.

Paul
jonferns
Nope, never had any undercoating. It spent its whole life in CA until last year when we brought it over to NJ.

The strut isn't as dirty now as it is in the picture, as it was taken before I went at it with a toothbrush. Its free of any dirt now, the finish is just a bit dull.
Pat Garvey
Jon,

If I gave you the impression that Simichrome was a cure-all for everything, I apologize - it is not!

Let's look t the background of "S". I first learned about it from bikers. They loved to have the engine cases of the bikes gleaming. Works great for that, but only last a week.

Simichrome is only for use on unpainted metal parts. And, moreover, parts that haven't neen cad plated, or the plating is gone & you don't want to invest the money is new parts.

Take, for advatage fuel rails. These were originally cad plated (or a derivative). but they are subjected to the environment. You could buy new, or Simichrome them. They are unpainted, so they will look like chrome when you're finished. And, they'll stay that way for a couple of years.

Do not use Simichrome for painted surfaces. You could pop off your brake line clips, clean them up, and Simichrome them - they would loook gorgeous, though not original (since they were cad plated).

Sorry if I gave you the wrong idea about this product - do NOT use it on painted surfaces, though it won't hurt them - only dull the finish.
Pat
jonferns
Pat, no worries. I got the idea that it was alright to use on painted finishes from the "NLA Parts" website, where they advertise it as being able to "polish paint".

How about a clay bar for removing the left-over brown film in the wheel wells?
Pat Garvey
QUOTE(sendjonathanmail @ May 5 2008, 08:49 PM) *

Pat, no worries. I got the idea that it was alright to use on painted finishes from the "NLA Parts" website, where they advertise it as being able to "polish paint".

How about a clay bar for removing the left-over brown film in the wheel wells?

Jon, can't help you here - never used a clay bar.

But, others have & they should chime in here! PLEASE! I'm still curious about the efforts & effects of a clay bar.
Pat
tod914
Maybe start with something like a ps21 paint cleaner. If that doesn't
work then the 3m rubbing compound (get the most mild that you can).
Use the least abrassive 1st, then go from there. Remember you'll be
removing paint with either product. Rub a little and then check your progress.
If you rush it, you'll likely not to have too much paint left in that area when your
done.
You don't want to burn through the paint. Mequires has a good cleaner too from what I recall,
and cheaper in price than the ps21. I used the Mequires cleaner to do my
engine bay and was very happy with the results. It's slightly more abrassive
then the ps21 and should work fine for your wheel wells. Anxious to see your results smile.gif
You might be able to get away with an orbital buffer using the ps21 or mequires.
But I would start by hand and see how it goes.
Good luck.
jonferns
Still haven't gotten around to removing the wheels to address those dark spots in the wheelwells. This weekend I took some time to remove my already loose front trunk seal and clean the gutters. I'm not going to glue the seal down. This way I can periodically remove it to clean up. I was lucky when I removed the seal because no chunks of it stayed behind, just lots of adhesive. I thought about what I could use to remove all of the adhesive, because just soapy water wasn't working. I went out and bought a bottle of Goo-Gone, and tested it on the paint on my parts car (by letting it sit overnight) just to make sure that it wouldn't have an unwanted effects. It worked really well at removing all the adhesive, and now I have a very clean gutter all around my front trunk, with no adhesive residue! After initial cleanup with Goo-Gone, I went over the gutter with soapy water, dried it, then waxed it. Pics to come

Next will be removing the rockers, cleaning under them, then refinishing them and reinstalling with new rivets I got from Tod. I'll also be refinishing the front and rear valances while i'm at it.
Pat Garvey
QUOTE(sendjonathanmail @ May 27 2008, 05:46 PM) *

Still haven't gotten around to removing the wheels to address those dark spots in the wheelwells. This weekend I took some time to remove my already loose front trunk seal and clean the gutters. I'm not going to glue the seal down. This way I can periodically remove it to clean up. I was lucky when I removed the seal because no chunks of it stayed behind, just lots of adhesive. I thought about what I could use to remove all of the adhesive, because just soapy water wasn't working. I went out and bought a bottle of Goo-Gone, and tested it on the paint on my parts car (by letting it sit overnight) just to make sure that it wouldn't have an unwanted effects. It worked really well at removing all the adhesive, and now I have a very clean gutter all around my front trunk, with no adhesive residue! After initial cleanup with Goo-Gone, I went over the gutter with soapy water, dried it, then waxed it. Pics to come

Next will be removing the rockers, cleaning under them, then refinishing them and reinstalling with new rivets I got from Tod. I'll also be refinishing the front and rear valances while i'm at it.

Jon,

Not certain about not gluing the front seal, but nice work overall.

How are you planning on refinishing the F & R valences?

Pat
jonferns
Pat, I'm not 100% sure how I will be refinishing them. My initial plan of attack was to sand them smooth (should I take them down to metal?), then prime them (which primer is best to use). I remember you suggested the 3M body schutz for rockers and valences. If the gun is reasonable enough I'll probably go down that path, but I'll practice the spray method before actually applying to the panels. Then I will finish with a satin black, probably the wurth stuff.

Pat, or anyone else, please feel free to give suggestions. I have lots of time to put into them, and I'd really like them to come out near-perfect.
jonferns
Pat, im gonna see if I can borrow the gun from someone here, because I can't justify paying $60 for something im gonna use only once or twice, ya im a CSOB. Think 1 quart of the body schutz will be enough to practice the spray pattern and to shoot the pieces?

Here is the only pic that I took while I was cleaning the gutters

Click to view attachment
orthobiz
Jonathan, I can't believe you're only 17 miles from Chatham, NJ, home of John Paterek! He's one of the national technical concours chairmen for PCA, is a super guy and is beyond knowledgeable about our cars.

Get over to his place, drive your car, I'm sure he'd love to see it and pick his brain. I wound up with a car from CA also last year. He gave me advice regarding the condition via e-mail pics I sent him. However, at 14K he also advised me NOT to pay more than 5K!

Anyway, you can tell him Bizzigotti says hi (he remembered my Black 2.0 from the 80's).

He will tell you EXACTLY what to do with EVERYTHING.

http://paterekbrothersinc.com/index.html

Paul
1970 Neun vierzehn
Nice work on the H/L weatherstripping gutters. You are indeed a lucky puppy that that metal looks so good, original and solid.

Here's what lay 'neath my rubber..............



Paul
1970 Neun vierzehn
What Paulie (Orthobiz) said about the Paterick Bros is aktion035.gif
Last weeks' issue of AutoWeek had a real good article on the Patericks' shop. They and their business do indeed rock. The Paterick name has always seemed to be held in high regard in classic Porsche circles.

You, however, are doing a fine job in your own right, especially with regard to "preserving", rather than "restoration" clap56.gif

Paul
tod914
It's looking good Johnathan. The problem with that front seal is it retains some
moisture and typically water seeps under it while you wash the car. I also pull mine
out on the white car after I wash it, and hand dry the gutter. The seal I let dry out
before it goes back in. The rear one can also get water under it too. Good idea
to pull that out and dry underneath too after a wash. Other culprits are those air
vent plugs in the door jams.
Pat Garvey
QUOTE(tod914 @ May 31 2008, 01:08 AM) *

It's looking good Johnathan. The problem with that front seal is it retains some
moisture and typically water seeps under it while you wash the car. I also pull mine
out on the white car after I wash it, and hand dry the gutter. The seal I let dry out
before it goes back in. The rear one can also get water under it too. Good idea
to pull that out and dry underneath too after a wash. Other culprits are those air
vent plugs in the door jams.

Relpy from the whacko here!

These, and just about all rubber seals, experience the same conditions when you "wash" your 914. Think the door panel seals don't hold moisture? Think that "ultra sponge" inside your sail panels (if you still have it) doesn't hold moisture? Think all of the seals don't hold moisture after you've washed your 914?

Think again!

And, no, the 914 is no different from any vinatge vehicle. The best, and worst, things we have going are good rubber.

Good, because it keeps the elements out (usually). Bad, because it harbors moisture & transfers it to to attached parts, sometimes leading to "scratch-your head" rust - how the hell did that start?

For those who insist on routinely driving thier 914's in the rain, then washing it with liberal quantities of water - sorry, you will get rust.

That's why I no longer drench my 914 with water - I dry wash it. Rarely gets filthy - last time was (I think) 1982. Still, I dry washed it afterwards. No linering moisture. No rusted surfaces. But, that's just me.
Pat
jonferns
Made some progress this weekend on the restoration of my valances. After sandblasting the rear valance, I smoothed out a few dings with a hammer, then primed it. I'll be using 3M Body Schutz to attain the proper finish. It will get schutz'd along with the front valance later this week, once the front valance is smoothed and primed. For now, heres some pics of the rear valance in primer. I'll post more once the front gets smoothed, and schutz'd.

IPB Image

IPB Image

IPB Image
orthobiz
So, Jonathan, get out to meet Paterek yet?

Paul
jonferns
Nope, but one of these days I will.
jonferns
So I finally schutz'd my valances this afternoon! The front one came out perfect (as far as uniformity goes). I did two rears, and I still have to decide which I will use, I kinda messed up a bit on one (one corner is a bit over textured). Im confident that I got the proper texture overall, or at least close to it. Can someone post a pic of their schutz'd valances? I will post pics once I install the valances along with my NOS 1.8 muffler this week smilie_pokal.gif
Pat Garvey
QUOTE(sendjonathanmail @ Jul 13 2008, 06:31 PM) *

So I finally schutz'd my valances this afternoon! The front one came out perfect (as far as uniformity goes). I did two rears, and I still have to decide which I will use, I kinda messed up a bit on one (one corner is a bit over textured). Im confident that I got the proper texture overall, or at least close to it. Can someone post a pic of their schutz'd valances? I will post pics once I install the valances along with my NOS 1.8 muffler this week smilie_pokal.gif

Jon,

I can take pics of my rear valance tonight & send them. Can't do the front, because the car is on stands & too close to the tool chest to get decent pics. The rear is the best anyway. I'll fire up the cam & shoot some off a little later.

Pat.

PS: the rear is an early one. However, I'm currently running a later one that I re-did. Will try to send pics of both later.
jonferns
Thanks Pat, after looking at the valances today im not so sure I got the texture right, from what you describe it should look like. Oh well, you have my email, looking forward to the pics, I appreciate it!
Pat Garvey
Click to view attachmentClick to view attachment
QUOTE(sendjonathanmail @ Jul 14 2008, 07:25 PM) *

Thanks Pat, after looking at the valances today im not so sure I got the texture right, from what you describe it should look like. Oh well, you have my email, looking forward to the pics, I appreciate it!

Jon,

Pics of the wrong valence for my 914
Pat Garvey
Click to view attachment
QUOTE(sendjonathanmail @ Jul 13 2008, 06:31 PM) *

So I finally schutz'd my valances this afternoon! The front one came out perfect (as far as uniformity goes). I did two rears, and I still have to decide which I will use, I kinda messed up a bit on one (one corner is a bit over textured). Im confident that I got the proper texture overall, or at least close to it. Can someone post a pic of their schutz'd valances? I will post pics once I install the valances along with my NOS 1.8 muffler this week smilie_pokal.gif

Jon,
This is the correct valence for my car. NOT finished by me - done in southern California by an expert!
Sory for any duplications - still learning VISTA.
jonferns
My final product has a texture very close to the valance that is on your car in the first few pics. I'll try to get pics tonight after work. Thanks again for the pics
1970 Neun vierzehn
I would think that either finish that Pat has depicted would be correct. Depending on whether Fritz, Hans or Werner was spraying the finish that day, what he set his pressures to, and how clean the equipment was, could all contribute to some variance of finish and texture. The original finish on my '70 rear valence was noticably textured near the bumper fitment, but almost smooth at the bottom.

Paul
jonferns
Hey Pat, are those mud flaps on your car in the pics above? Whats the part number on those?

I decided against installing the NOS muffler, gonna hold onto it for a bit bye1.gif
Bucci
QUOTE(sendjonathanmail @ Sep 10 2008, 06:39 PM) *

Hey Pat, are those mud flaps on your car in the pics above? Whats the part number on those?

I decided against installing the NOS muffler, gonna hold onto it for a bit bye1.gif


Hello, I have some new/ old stock 914 mud flaps in storage. I will pull down and take a picture soon.

Marc-
Pat Garvey
QUOTE(sendjonathanmail @ Sep 10 2008, 07:39 PM) *

Hey Pat, are those mud flaps on your car in the pics above? Whats the part number on those?

I decided against installing the NOS muffler, gonna hold onto it for a bit bye1.gif

Jon,

Nope, those are "spats". They aren't factory - made by Colgan in the late 70's (don't know if they still make them).

They are definitely NOT original, but they have provided protection for my rear valence for many years & will stay, particularly with the addition of a correct early valence. They actually work! So, I'll continue taking a gig for them.
Pat
jonferns
Guess its time to bump my own thread. I haven't done much in the way of detailing or cleanup but I have been collecting nice NOS parts. I promise to get back to working on it soon. I'd like to drop the trans in the spring and degrease it as well as clean under the rear trunk (lots of oil buildup).
Pat Garvey
QUOTE(sendjonathanmail @ Feb 9 2009, 10:16 PM) *

Guess its time to bump my own thread. I haven't done much in the way of detailing or cleanup but I have been collecting nice NOS parts. I promise to get back to working on it soon. I'd like to drop the trans in the spring and degrease it as well as clean under the rear trunk (lots of oil buildup).

Jon, we'll be watching & waiting & willing to offer suggestions. Sounds like a dirty job, but you can't get a 914 clean without removing the filth from the 914 onto your clothes. After all, you can't run your 914 through the clothes washer. Can you? Anyone tried THAT?
Pat
jonferns
Well, back to work! Dropped the transmission today to fix a leak and to do some cleaning. Everything is caked in oil, so this is going to take some serious effort. I'll start with cleaning the trans then move onto underneath the car and detail it. Ordering a bunch of shiney new parts too! Finally, I'll install my NOS 1.8 muffler. Pics to come. bye1.gif
Pat Garvey
QUOTE(sendjonathanmail @ Mar 27 2009, 08:43 PM) *

Well, back to work! Dropped the transmission today to fix a leak and to do some cleaning. Everything is caked in oil, so this is going to take some serious effort. I'll start with cleaning the trans then move onto underneath the car and detail it. Ordering a bunch of shiney new parts too! Finally, I'll install my NOS 1.8 muffler. Pics to come. bye1.gif

Couple of cans of CRC & toothbrusheswill clean up the tranny gook. Use several layers of or heavy corrugated cardboard underneath to "recycle" the gook & keep the mess localized. Good luck.
Pat
jonferns
Whew, finally finished cleaning the trans. 3 cans of EasyOff oven cleaner, a pressure washer spraying hot water, and a small toothbrush, it is spotless! Took me about 4-5 hours but I was able to achieve the spotless finish that I was after. After doing the oven cleaner twice, I scrubbed the entire thing with baking soda and water to neutralize any acid from the oven cleaner as to not discolor my case, just as a precaution. Im really happy with the results, every nut & bolt is clean. Now just to replace the speedo angle drive (looking for one!). Next task is cleaning up the mess under the car, but it will be as clean as my wheelwells. Pics to come, my hands were too greasy to take any.
TJB/914
QUOTE(sendjonathanmail @ Mar 28 2009, 07:18 PM) *

Whew, finally finished cleaning the trans. 3 cans of EasyOff oven cleaner, a pressure washer spraying hot water, and a small toothbrush, it is spotless! Took me about 4-5 hours but I was able to achieve the spotless finish that I was after. After doing the oven cleaner twice, I scrubbed the entire thing with baking soda and water to neutralize any acid from the oven cleaner as to not discolor my case, just as a precaution. Im really happy with the results, every nut & bolt is clean. Now just to replace the speedo angle drive (looking for one!). Next task is cleaning up the mess under the car, but it will be as clean as my wheelwells. Pics to come, my hands were too greasy to take any.


Hi Jonathan,

Good going, now show us a picture of the finished transmission. poke.gif You & Tod will be our next cloned Pat Garvey. lol-2.gif His job is open rolleyes.gif

Tom popcorn[1].gif
BTW: We are proud of you.
Pat Garvey
QUOTE(Thomas J Bliznik @ Mar 29 2009, 08:20 AM) *

QUOTE(sendjonathanmail @ Mar 28 2009, 07:18 PM) *

Whew, finally finished cleaning the trans. 3 cans of EasyOff oven cleaner, a pressure washer spraying hot water, and a small toothbrush, it is spotless! Took me about 4-5 hours but I was able to achieve the spotless finish that I was after. After doing the oven cleaner twice, I scrubbed the entire thing with baking soda and water to neutralize any acid from the oven cleaner as to not discolor my case, just as a precaution. Im really happy with the results, every nut & bolt is clean. Now just to replace the speedo angle drive (looking for one!). Next task is cleaning up the mess under the car, but it will be as clean as my wheelwells. Pics to come, my hands were too greasy to take any.


Hi Jonathan,

Good going, now show us a picture of the finished transmission. poke.gif You & Tod will be our next cloned Pat Garvey. lol-2.gif His job is open rolleyes.gif

Tom popcorn[1].gif
BTW: We are proud of you.

Nice try Tom! These guys are good, though I would never let oven cleaner touch my sensitive parts.
Pat
dr914@autoatlanta.com
QUOTE(Pat Garvey @ Jul 14 2008, 07:55 PM) *

Click to view attachment
QUOTE(sendjonathanmail @ Jul 13 2008, 06:31 PM) *

So I finally schutz'd my valances this afternoon! The front one came out perfect (as far as uniformity goes). I did two rears, and I still have to decide which I will use, I kinda messed up a bit on one (one corner is a bit over textured). Im confident that I got the proper texture overall, or at least close to it. Can someone post a pic of their schutz'd valances? I will post pics once I install the valances along with my NOS 1.8 muffler this week smilie_pokal.gif

Jon,
This is the correct valence for my car. NOT finished by me - done in southern California by an expert!
Sory for any duplications - still learning VISTA.



you know of course that the rear valances and rockers were never finished in schutz or stone guard, but rather trim paint with a very orange peal finish. The schutz is a nicer product to use these days but is not an original appearance.
Mr.242

Couple of cans of CRC & toothbrusheswill clean up the tranny gook. Use several layers of or heavy corrugated cardboard underneath to "recycle" the gook & keep the mess localized. Good luck.
Pat
[/quote]


I am in the process of cleaning under my car: engine/tranny. I have found that a good layer of WD-40 (assume any lubricant would work) first and let it sit. I then come after it with CRC and clean. The stuff comes off way better.

I figure that caked on oil and grime comes off better when it has be "rehydrated" with oil.

And yes, I have a catch all under the car because it is messy!

Now, who has the best solution for the oil grime that gets under my fingernails!?


Mark
Pat Garvey
QUOTE(dr914@autoatlanta.com @ Mar 31 2009, 07:24 AM) *

QUOTE(Pat Garvey @ Jul 14 2008, 07:55 PM) *

Click to view attachment
QUOTE(sendjonathanmail @ Jul 13 2008, 06:31 PM) *

So I finally schutz'd my valances this afternoon! The front one came out perfect (as far as uniformity goes). I did two rears, and I still have to decide which I will use, I kinda messed up a bit on one (one corner is a bit over textured). Im confident that I got the proper texture overall, or at least close to it. Can someone post a pic of their schutz'd valances? I will post pics once I install the valances along with my NOS 1.8 muffler this week smilie_pokal.gif

Jon,
This is the correct valence for my car. NOT finished by me - done in southern California by an expert!
Sory for any duplications - still learning VISTA.



you know of course that the rear valances and rockers were never finished in schutz or stone guard, but rather trim paint with a very orange peal finish. The schutz is a nicer product to use these days but is not an original appearance.

George,

Look, I know you the godfather of 914's ...but. I won't disagree with you on Schutz, but will relate somehting I experienced.

1974, my first Porsche Parade. Won councours, did my usual mediocre auto-x & rally. But, duringthe concours, one of the judges (Chuck Stoddard) told me that the leading forward edges of my rocker covers looked like they needed to be re-done. I asked what he said I should use. Told me that Body Schutz was the factory material & that I should buy the low pressure gun and redo all the lower panels. I did. They turned out great.

My question is this, and no disrepect intended, whom should I believe?

If anyone has proof that Schutz was not used by the factory, I'll shut me mouth.

If not, I'll contnue to recommend it.
Pat
jonferns
Well, finally finished cleaning. I finally got the trans spotless and spent a few hours cleaning and detailing underneath the car. Its not 100% to my liking, but I want to start driving the car as the weather has been nice, so this winter out comes the engine/trans for some refreshing and a full cleanup. I'll post more pics once I get my NOS muffler and bits installed, but for now...

Click to view attachment
dcheek
Jonathan,
I want to congratulate you on such a thorough cleaning job. It's amazing what you will find when you dig this deep.

Just a couple of comments:

-While I don't have proof that the factory didn't use Shutz, I would have to agree with George at A/A that it looks like they used a fairly thick mixture of paint in a pressure feed gun to give the finish a pronounced orange peel effect. I defer to the Brothers Paterek on that one, they must know the answer.

-As far as cleaning a greasy trans or engine; 30 years ago I went to a Paterek workshop and they used plain old kerosene with a brush. There was a miserably neglected 356 for the demonstration. They heated up the engine, covered the distributor cap with plastic and brushed liberally with kerosene. Then hosed off with a strong stream of water. I know it sounds downright primitive, but it worked! I continue to use this method on my tranny, not the engine, since it never really gets that dirty. The trouble with store bought engine cleaners is that they are too aggressive and leave blotches and totally strip any protection you would have on the parts. And I would have to agree with Pat that the oven cleaner is too caustic for plating, seals and paint. The kerosene leaves everything clean and won't remove the finish on painted or plated surfaces.

As with any procedure, whatever works for you is correct. I just though I would put in my two cents.

Dave
jonferns
Thanks for the tips Dave. I thought that the oven cleaner would be too strong, but I read about how good it is for removing grease and oil, so I made sure not to leave it on too long, and to rinse liberally with water and baking soda to make sure it wouldn't spot. As always, thanks for the input, and at this years All Air Cooled Gathering feel free to judge my 914's undercarriage smile.gif
Pat Garvey
QUOTE(sendjonathanmail @ Apr 11 2009, 07:38 PM) *

Well, finally finished cleaning. I finally got the trans spotless and spent a few hours cleaning and detailing underneath the car. Its not 100% to my liking, but I want to start driving the car as the weather has been nice, so this winter out comes the engine/trans for some refreshing and a full cleanup. I'll post more pics once I get my NOS muffler and bits installed, but for now...

Click to view attachment

Jon,

Great looking tranny! Your witch's brew aeems to work well. We all have our own "brew", and they all seem to work.

Nice job my friend. Nice job!
Pat
jonferns
Thanks Pat. Im sending you a PM bye1.gif
dcheek
QUOTE(sendjonathanmail @ Apr 12 2009, 05:11 AM) *

Thanks for the tips Dave. I thought that the oven cleaner would be too strong, but I read about how good it is for removing grease and oil, so I made sure not to leave it on too long, and to rinse liberally with water and baking soda to make sure it wouldn't spot. As always, thanks for the input, and at this years All Air Cooled Gathering feel free to judge my 914's undercarriage smile.gif


Jonathan,
With this level of preparation any thoughts on attending the Zone One Porsche Concours in Parsippany NJ on May 17th? I'm assuming you are a PCA member of course. See the "Events" thread of 914world.com for details.

And, yes I would be happy to judge your undercarriage at the AACG. Tod, are you ready for some competition?


Dave
jonferns
Dave, thanks for the kind words but my car is no where near concours, I wouldn't stand a chance! As for this year's AACG, any chance of seperating the 914's from the 911's and have two seperate classes? Those same two 993's take 1st and 2nd every year! laugh.gif Talk to you soon.
dcheek
QUOTE(sendjonathanmail @ Apr 15 2009, 06:59 PM) *

Dave, thanks for the kind words but my car is no where near concours, I wouldn't stand a chance! As for this year's AACG, any chance of seperating the 914's from the 911's and have two seperate classes? Those same two 993's take 1st and 2nd every year! laugh.gif Talk to you soon.


Jonathan,
The All Air Cooled Gathering's original premise was to have an informal venue for the VW air cooled hobby. It wasn't really a car show but, just as the event name implies, a "Gathering". We quickly found out that people really like to be recognized for their effort, whether it be restoration, preparation or preservation of their vehicle. So, we decided to hand out trophies. The first year, being a very small club with a very limited budget, we only gave out one trophy per class. While that's better than no trophy at all, we could see that many entrants were disappointed. So at my suggestion, we went 3 deep in each class (i.e. 1st, 2nd and 3rd). And since Dr. Porsche was instrumental in the design of the VW, I thought it was obvious that we should invite all air cooled Porsches as well. The only way this was going to happen is if I volunteered to judge the Porsche class, which I happily did. So, what about breaking up the classes of Porsches? I think its a legitimate question if the Porsche turnout was a little stronger. So far, with less than 10 cars in the entire Porsche class with representation of each model in the low single digits it just doesn't justify the formation of subclasses. I would love a large Porsche contingent to show up, especially 914's. So, unless this changes, we will keep it just one class for all air cooled Porsches. FYI, last year we had 215 cars in attendance. So, all you 914 owners, give us a reason to break up the class and show your pride and joy!

Dave
jonferns
Well, im trying to convince Pat to go to this years AACG poke.gif But otherwise its the usual suspects, me, Ray and Tod. Dave, why don't you bring out your 914 this year? I have a feeling I can recruit at least 2 more teeners from the club site. Lets try for a nice 914 turnout this year. bye1.gif
tod914
Kudos Johnathan. Under carriage looks great! Patterak brothers are haveing a workshop this Sunday; 13 Commerce Street, Chatham NJ 07928. You should pop down if you can. I believe it starts at 1:00 Dave looking foward to seeing you there.
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