So I thought that my 5 year old clutch cable was on the way out. I had a spare, get everything disconnected, tie a string the the cable to feed it out, and it gets stuck going out. I don't force it. I notice something odd. There's approximately 18 inches of clutch tube banging around loose in the tunnel.

So, I try and pull the cable back through and connect everything back up because it's clearly not the cable and the cable head won't come back through the piece of broken tube. Push it back up in the tunnel, connect everything up and it works better than it did before. But now I have an 18" piece of tub jangling around in there.

Ugh.

Anyone know who does this repair locally and cheap in SoCal?

Last fuchin thing I needed right now too.

Joe,
Take the access panel off the tunnel and fill it with concrete. That way the tube won't rattle.

I needed that laugh. Thanks Steve.

I can't believe that you can't get some help getting that fixed this weekend. Here's a

I will do a quick check today and see if the parts cars has a solid tube. Then it's a matter of cutting it out of the firewall complete and cutting yours out. I can splatter weld ... prolly enough to hold it securely or I'll loan you my Harbor Freight Wire Feed Splatter Welder.

It's a matter of time Gint .... something I'm running short of approaching the end.

I could come out to Ron's and weld that for you, sence you have the machine.

I am semi-free this weekend.

Paul,

Thanks much! I may take you up on that. I have a get out of jail free card for Saturday afternoon. I might need to use it.

PM me your contact info, and I'll call you.

Thanks,
Joe

As explained on the phone and I hadn't thought of .... I don't know if the tube can be fished down the center tunnel with the engine in. Tube is about 4' long.

Guess we'll figure it out tomorrow.

Took a trip to Uncle Ronnie's today. I pulled in and saw Toastie polishing up her yellow car.

Anyways, Paul was there too and we tore into my car. The broked section of clutch tube came out of the shifter hole easily. It was about 20 inches long. It looks like the bracket at the front broke, and the the movement eventually broke the the tube further down. So we did some detective work.

There is a bracket of sorts about 1 inch aft of of the main lateral support that runs across the tunnel. The tube broke there. The end is still secured there and the tube continues to the firewall, where it seems to be solid. This changes the angle of the cable a little, but not too much.

We went and opened up a tunnel on one of Ronnie's cars, and saw that the tube is spot welded to that bracket and wailing on it with a BFH didn't seem to do too much.

So we left the cable as is.

Paul - post some pics!

Anyone have any input advice on this?

TIA

Thanks again Ron for your help and patience with me. Also thanks for the spare starter for the 6er and DAMN is the Ghost fast!

I see you made it home ok ......

Hopefully your car ran a tad better on the way back.

You've got one that can be fast too! Get on it!

Went to Ron's (Slits) shop in Riverside, got there and Ron and Toastie were just

finishing up an R&R on Toast's rear (there's a joke there...but I am going to be

good) brake flex lines. Toast also got some new to her visors (very nice), She

sure has a clean little car.

Joe showed up in his teener and they proceeded to put her on the rack and check

her out. The clutch tube at the fire wall was as good as I have ever seen but when

joe pulled up the carpet and unbolted the shifter, he reached into the tunnel and

drew out a 18"-20" piece of the clutch tube. Looks like the front bracket broke on

the tube and it looke like as Joe used the clutch the tube bent back and forth until

it broke off right at the bracket pictured. Ron attacked the devel car and laid open

the tunnel so we all could see what was in there and what it will take to do a fix. Yellow arrows

point at the cross brace under the front of the seat.

(Thanks Ron )
Click to view attachment
In pic below the larger of the three tubes(circled in green) is the clutch tube. It

appears to be spot welded to the bottom of the bracket. The other (2)smaller

tubes are for the heater controls and terminate not far past the bracket.

Click to view attachment

We laid a straight edge from the bracket to where the clutch cable would connect

to the peddle cluster and there appeared to be nothing in the way for the cable to

rub on. So it looks like Joe will run the tube/cable the way it is until he drops the

engine/trans for a clutch change.

Had a Great time, nice to see you all again. Our Host, gracious as usual, made

sure we all had a good time. It was a nice day...Good Company.

I thought that the tunnel was an integral part of the long support system.
1. Is this true?
2. If so, when you cut into the tunnel, did you brace/reinforce the hole after the work was completed?
3. Or is this even an issue???

Thanks!

1. I am no expert but I think the center tunnel is more support for the floor panels and as a 'chase' for electrical, hydrolics, shift linkage, clutch cable, throttle cable, fuel lines and heater controls.

2.The tunnel you see open, is the Un Dead teener. The "666" car is destined for the crusher so no repair needed. If you are going to attempt this I would do it the way Ron sudjested. FIRST---PLEASE REMEMBER THAT THE FUEL LINES RUN THROUGHT THE TUNNEL. So, when welding in this area you can not share that space with a flamable liquid. Just want to be clear, not insulting. Use a 2"-2 1/2" hole saw. Put two holes, one just behind the brace so you can reach straight down and then one more just right of that hole torwards the centerline of the car. You will need one more if you are going to replace the tube or your repair IS on the front bracket, at the front of the tunnel, where the end of the tube is secured with a bracket, inside the tunnel.
You will need to drill out the spot welds on the brackets to be able to remove the old tube. After repair is complete, tack weld the 'Plugs' back on to the holes you cut with the holesaw in the tunnel. I would make sure you treat the metal for rust prevention after you weld the plugs back on.

One thing to make sure of when you pull the shifter is to make sure you tighten down the shifter plate to the body when you put it all back together.

I lost 4th and 5th today, but a quick adjustment and a few not-really-tight bolts on the shifter assembly caused that one.

are the VIN and other info in our database? we'd like to keep even the dead ones ...
Andy

The car is over at Ron's (slits) shop. It was going to be sent to Grasshopper in Fla but another car went in it's place. I am sure Ron will see this.