Well, today I finished rebuilding the doors and mounted them to the car...
The doors are from another car, but I left the door hinges mounted to the car and just removed the hinge pin....
Anyway, I used a new seal around the vent window and installed a very nice used cap above the vent window. So, the door itself fits very well on the car, but the top of the window is about a 1/4" below the targa seal. Also, the cap above the vent window is hitting the windshield seal and keeping it from sealing and causing the front of the window to just out about a 1/4". The window seal is new.
How do I adjust the window and/or vent window to make a good seal? I'm almost tempted to trim the windshield seal, but that would be the last resort....
BTW, I've adjusted the lower screw, that pivots the front of the window channel, to cause the window to bend more towards the top...
Any assistance is appreciated.... Or should I just take it to a body shop and have the adjust it?
Click to view attachment
-- Rob
Full Version: Help adjusting window/door
If the car has been hit or badly rusted, and the repairs not done right, then you may not get the window to line up right with everything. Also if the door was removed and not re-installed correctly, it will cause problems with window alignment.
What I do is loosen all the adjusters, so you move the window and guide around, and get it to fit in right with the top, side and forward window seals, and then tighten it up with the door closed, and window where you want it to be.
If the chrome channels that hold the rear vertical seal, and the windshield frame seal, have been moved, then you might have to spend some time taking the seals on and off, and moving the seal channel to get it to fit right.
I hope someone else can offer more insight here, as getting the side windows to seal good is one of the more difficult proceedures. This is one of the reasons I came up with the Umbrella Cover. After putting all new seals (and a custom leather interior with new wool carpet) I still couldn't get it to keep completely dry, especially when parked outside in the rain.
What I do is loosen all the adjusters, so you move the window and guide around, and get it to fit in right with the top, side and forward window seals, and then tighten it up with the door closed, and window where you want it to be.
If the chrome channels that hold the rear vertical seal, and the windshield frame seal, have been moved, then you might have to spend some time taking the seals on and off, and moving the seal channel to get it to fit right.
I hope someone else can offer more insight here, as getting the side windows to seal good is one of the more difficult proceedures. This is one of the reasons I came up with the Umbrella Cover. After putting all new seals (and a custom leather interior with new wool carpet) I still couldn't get it to keep completely dry, especially when parked outside in the rain.
Wow the search engine does work, kind of, I was looking for this exact same problem. Everything lines up in the car so damage is probably out but the d-side window sits about a quarter inch to low from the seal. Did the recomended procedure workout? Anyone have a good idea on how to adjust? I was trying to get this done soon before any idiot with a coat hangar trys to steal the car.
There is a thread not to far down about Early vs Late Targa tops and how they fit/did not fit Late/Early doors. I think concensus was if you have early doors and a late top you must use the early Seals along the edge of the top??
This may or may not pertain to your problem..
jkp
This may or may not pertain to your problem..
jkp
I volunteered to writeup instructions on door assembly and adjustment. Here's the text of the writeup. Before the season is over, I'll do my other door, check the procedure, and take some photos and finally get it posted.
Meanwhile, here's the writeup. There may be some errors, because I intend to check everything out when I assemble my passenger side door, but maybe it can help.
The earlier posting give a great tip that I need to incorporate- loosen mounting bolts, roll window all the way up, get inside and close the door. With the bolts loose, you can move the window up, down, and tilt until you get it as close as you can. Holding it there, tighten the bolts.
First steps are optional. Adjustments starts with step 9.
Good luck!
Jim
Door Assembly sequence.
1. Thoroughly clean door cavities out using POR-15 Marine Clean and rinse thoroughly with hose. Let it dry for a couple of weeks with the doors slightly ajar.
2. Brush-paint lower one-third of the interior cavity with POR-15 black (one coat) and POR-15 chassis black (second coat). Also, I painted the topmost part of the interior along its length. I’ve seen corrosion up there that bubbled through!
3. Get on your knees and sight along the top edge of the door. Make sure the metal edges inboard of the window openings are straight and parallel to the outer edge. While you’re on your knees, pray for a successful fuzzy install.
4. Install door stay, if it isn’t already installed. Place rollup window into door cavity from the top. I put an old towel under it so it wouldn’t scratch the fresh paint on the bottom of the door, which could lead to corrosion. If you do step eight without doing this first, you’ll have to take it all apart to get the window in! Don’t ask how I know that.
5. Install outer aluminum weatherstrip channel (outer fuzzy goes in here in next step) onto outer edge of slot that the rollup window moves up and down in. This is attached with 3 screws. I used stainless steel M5 flat head sheet metal screws. I got them at McMaster-Carr for a few bucks for a pack. I had to deepen the countersink in the holes in the channel before assembly, as the M5 is slightly larger than the original metric size screws. The slightly larger body gives you a more reliable bite in the old chewed up holes in the door as well. Before you
install the channel, be damn sure it is straight with no kinks.
6. Install new fuzzy strip into channel. It has to go in from the front. Be sure to soap it up real good. It’s a bear to install. If you have ANY kinks or microscopically deformed portions of this channel, you’ll deplete your entire vocabulary of 4-letter words, wreck your new fuzzy, and still not get it in. This may be the worst part of the whole door assembly, in my experience. If you do step eight without doing this first, you’ll have to undo it to get the fuzzy in, because the fuzzy has to go in from the front before the fixed window is installed. Don’t ask how I found that out.
7. Install window elevator mechanism into door. Fit into the large opening in the inside surface of the door. Lift the window with one hand, and install roller into rear channel on the window itself. Install nylon block into front channel on window. Put a 10mm bolt through the elongated hole on the nylon block, and thread into tapped hole on window channel. Bolt window regulator mechanism to door using 10mm flange head bolts. Snug the bolts for now. Crank the window all the way down until it either hits the stop or rests on the towel that you put in the door.
8. Install front vertical window channel (long chrome piece) and fixed “vent” window, as follows:
8.1 Install rubber weatherstrip for fixed vent window into front edge of channel.
8.2 Install fixed vent window into weatherstrip- both channel side vertical) and bottom.
8.3 Install plastic cap onto top of chrome channel, using two Philips head screws. Be sure fixed window tops out at this plastic cap. If it doesn’t, tweak the weatherstrip up or down in the channel until it is right.
8.4 Install long rubber channel weatherstrip for roll down window into rear edge of chrome channel. Be sure to put it low enough to be able to clear the tab on the plastic cap that sits in the same channel. If it is too high in the channel, it will ride over the plastic cap, and the window will bind as it reaches the top of its travel. Don’t ask me why I know this.
8.5 Lower the chrome channel and fixed window assembly down into door. Before you bottom it out, hold it up with one hand and screw the special adjustment screw into the bottom threaded hole. Screw it all the way in for the moment.
8.6 Force the fixed "vent" window and its weather strip down into slot in door. The entire assembly, including the fixed window and the long chrome channel will move down to its proper location in the door. I used a film of RTV on the door to ensure a seal. Hook front tab on the same weatherstrip into metal pocket on front edge of door.
8.7 Fit bottom adjuster screw into tab on door, unscrew it a couple of turns for now, and then install a 10mm bolt at the top of the door, going into the threaded tab on the chrome channel. I used a 10mm stainless bolt, with a stainless split lock washer. Not original, but effective.
9. First adjustment- close the door slowly. As it seats, watch along the gap at the windshield frame seal. If you look at the gap straight on from the side of the car, the leading edge of the fixed window should enter the weatherstrip parallel to the weatherstrip. If not, the lower adjuster screw on the chrome vertical channel in the door can be moved forwards or backwards to correct this. Be sure the 10mm screw at the top edge of the door is loose before you try this.
10. Second adjustment- now watch the gap from behind as you close the door slowly. Just before seating, the fixed window should be parallel to the windshield weatherstrip as you look from directly behind, from the roll bar direction. To adjust this, screw the lower adjuster screw in and out to move the top out and in and get it the way you want it. Once you’re satisfied, put a flat washer and a self-locking nut on the adjuster screw to lock it in both the fore-and-aft, and the in-and-out location. Check and recheck the alignment as you close the door. Once you’re satisfied, try slamming the door and make sure everything seals nicely.
11. Install the inboard roller channel in the door. Grease it, fish it through an opening in the inner door panel, capture the nylon roller that is dangling on the window mechanism, and then secure it to the inner door panel with two 10mm flange head bolts.
12. Crank the window all the way up. Install the door latch and door handle. These can both be installed at the end, but it’s easier now.
13. Install the rear window guide. Install a new weatherstrip onto the guide, and then fish the assembly up through the inside door panel, near the back of the door, capturing the rear edge of the window glass. Secure it at the bottom with two 10mm bolts, loosely installed.
14. Third adjustment- parallelism. The 10mm bolt that you installed in step 7 fits into an elongated hole in the nylon block, and then into the channel that is fixed to the glass. Loosen this bolt, press on the back edge of the glass to seat the glass squarely in the front channel, and tighten the bolt. (there’s an error here I need to correct.)
15. Fourth adjustment- bottom travel limit. When you crank the window down, it is limited by a stop at the big gear on the crank mechanism. It should stop just before touching the bottom of the door cavity. Take the towel out (see step 4), and crank the window down slowly, observing how far down it goes before a hard stop. If it bottoms on the door cavity, it’s going too far, and will scrape the paint off the inside of the panel, which will then start to corrode. The forward flanged head bolt on the fixed window channel adjusts this. Keeping the rear bolt just finger tight, loosen the front bolt and move it up in its slotted hole to raise the window. Move it just a little, and then tighten again. Raise the window all the way up, and then all the way down slowly. The window needs to bottom out before it makes contact with the door bottom. If it makes contact, loosen that bolt and move it up a bit more, and repeat. If it bottoms out way before making contact, then you need to loosen the bolt and move it down a hair and retry. Mine are adjusted to within about 1/16 inch of hitting the door at the bottom.
16. Fifth adjustment- top travel limit. The rear bolt on the fixed window channel adjusts …… more to come.
Meanwhile, here's the writeup. There may be some errors, because I intend to check everything out when I assemble my passenger side door, but maybe it can help.
The earlier posting give a great tip that I need to incorporate- loosen mounting bolts, roll window all the way up, get inside and close the door. With the bolts loose, you can move the window up, down, and tilt until you get it as close as you can. Holding it there, tighten the bolts.
First steps are optional. Adjustments starts with step 9.
Good luck!
Jim
Door Assembly sequence.
1. Thoroughly clean door cavities out using POR-15 Marine Clean and rinse thoroughly with hose. Let it dry for a couple of weeks with the doors slightly ajar.
2. Brush-paint lower one-third of the interior cavity with POR-15 black (one coat) and POR-15 chassis black (second coat). Also, I painted the topmost part of the interior along its length. I’ve seen corrosion up there that bubbled through!
3. Get on your knees and sight along the top edge of the door. Make sure the metal edges inboard of the window openings are straight and parallel to the outer edge. While you’re on your knees, pray for a successful fuzzy install.
4. Install door stay, if it isn’t already installed. Place rollup window into door cavity from the top. I put an old towel under it so it wouldn’t scratch the fresh paint on the bottom of the door, which could lead to corrosion. If you do step eight without doing this first, you’ll have to take it all apart to get the window in! Don’t ask how I know that.
5. Install outer aluminum weatherstrip channel (outer fuzzy goes in here in next step) onto outer edge of slot that the rollup window moves up and down in. This is attached with 3 screws. I used stainless steel M5 flat head sheet metal screws. I got them at McMaster-Carr for a few bucks for a pack. I had to deepen the countersink in the holes in the channel before assembly, as the M5 is slightly larger than the original metric size screws. The slightly larger body gives you a more reliable bite in the old chewed up holes in the door as well. Before you
install the channel, be damn sure it is straight with no kinks.
6. Install new fuzzy strip into channel. It has to go in from the front. Be sure to soap it up real good. It’s a bear to install. If you have ANY kinks or microscopically deformed portions of this channel, you’ll deplete your entire vocabulary of 4-letter words, wreck your new fuzzy, and still not get it in. This may be the worst part of the whole door assembly, in my experience. If you do step eight without doing this first, you’ll have to undo it to get the fuzzy in, because the fuzzy has to go in from the front before the fixed window is installed. Don’t ask how I found that out.
7. Install window elevator mechanism into door. Fit into the large opening in the inside surface of the door. Lift the window with one hand, and install roller into rear channel on the window itself. Install nylon block into front channel on window. Put a 10mm bolt through the elongated hole on the nylon block, and thread into tapped hole on window channel. Bolt window regulator mechanism to door using 10mm flange head bolts. Snug the bolts for now. Crank the window all the way down until it either hits the stop or rests on the towel that you put in the door.
8. Install front vertical window channel (long chrome piece) and fixed “vent” window, as follows:
8.1 Install rubber weatherstrip for fixed vent window into front edge of channel.
8.2 Install fixed vent window into weatherstrip- both channel side vertical) and bottom.
8.3 Install plastic cap onto top of chrome channel, using two Philips head screws. Be sure fixed window tops out at this plastic cap. If it doesn’t, tweak the weatherstrip up or down in the channel until it is right.
8.4 Install long rubber channel weatherstrip for roll down window into rear edge of chrome channel. Be sure to put it low enough to be able to clear the tab on the plastic cap that sits in the same channel. If it is too high in the channel, it will ride over the plastic cap, and the window will bind as it reaches the top of its travel. Don’t ask me why I know this.
8.5 Lower the chrome channel and fixed window assembly down into door. Before you bottom it out, hold it up with one hand and screw the special adjustment screw into the bottom threaded hole. Screw it all the way in for the moment.
8.6 Force the fixed "vent" window and its weather strip down into slot in door. The entire assembly, including the fixed window and the long chrome channel will move down to its proper location in the door. I used a film of RTV on the door to ensure a seal. Hook front tab on the same weatherstrip into metal pocket on front edge of door.
8.7 Fit bottom adjuster screw into tab on door, unscrew it a couple of turns for now, and then install a 10mm bolt at the top of the door, going into the threaded tab on the chrome channel. I used a 10mm stainless bolt, with a stainless split lock washer. Not original, but effective.
9. First adjustment- close the door slowly. As it seats, watch along the gap at the windshield frame seal. If you look at the gap straight on from the side of the car, the leading edge of the fixed window should enter the weatherstrip parallel to the weatherstrip. If not, the lower adjuster screw on the chrome vertical channel in the door can be moved forwards or backwards to correct this. Be sure the 10mm screw at the top edge of the door is loose before you try this.
10. Second adjustment- now watch the gap from behind as you close the door slowly. Just before seating, the fixed window should be parallel to the windshield weatherstrip as you look from directly behind, from the roll bar direction. To adjust this, screw the lower adjuster screw in and out to move the top out and in and get it the way you want it. Once you’re satisfied, put a flat washer and a self-locking nut on the adjuster screw to lock it in both the fore-and-aft, and the in-and-out location. Check and recheck the alignment as you close the door. Once you’re satisfied, try slamming the door and make sure everything seals nicely.
11. Install the inboard roller channel in the door. Grease it, fish it through an opening in the inner door panel, capture the nylon roller that is dangling on the window mechanism, and then secure it to the inner door panel with two 10mm flange head bolts.
12. Crank the window all the way up. Install the door latch and door handle. These can both be installed at the end, but it’s easier now.
13. Install the rear window guide. Install a new weatherstrip onto the guide, and then fish the assembly up through the inside door panel, near the back of the door, capturing the rear edge of the window glass. Secure it at the bottom with two 10mm bolts, loosely installed.
14. Third adjustment- parallelism. The 10mm bolt that you installed in step 7 fits into an elongated hole in the nylon block, and then into the channel that is fixed to the glass. Loosen this bolt, press on the back edge of the glass to seat the glass squarely in the front channel, and tighten the bolt. (there’s an error here I need to correct.)
15. Fourth adjustment- bottom travel limit. When you crank the window down, it is limited by a stop at the big gear on the crank mechanism. It should stop just before touching the bottom of the door cavity. Take the towel out (see step 4), and crank the window down slowly, observing how far down it goes before a hard stop. If it bottoms on the door cavity, it’s going too far, and will scrape the paint off the inside of the panel, which will then start to corrode. The forward flanged head bolt on the fixed window channel adjusts this. Keeping the rear bolt just finger tight, loosen the front bolt and move it up in its slotted hole to raise the window. Move it just a little, and then tighten again. Raise the window all the way up, and then all the way down slowly. The window needs to bottom out before it makes contact with the door bottom. If it makes contact, loosen that bolt and move it up a bit more, and repeat. If it bottoms out way before making contact, then you need to loosen the bolt and move it down a hair and retry. Mine are adjusted to within about 1/16 inch of hitting the door at the bottom.
16. Fifth adjustment- top travel limit. The rear bolt on the fixed window channel adjusts …… more to come.
Thankyou for this, I am really looking forward step 15 on that where me biggest problem is. My top adjustment is off. I am enjoying this community more and more.
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