Any pro's or con's to using ARP head studs, on a 2.8?

Have you read up on this subject over on the Pelican 911 engine rebuilding forum? I think that ARP head studs will work great, but keep in mind that several years ago Dilivar studs were the devil, and steel were god but now it's the other way around or maybe it's back again by now, I don't know. I do know 2 things- ARP has earned a great reputation and no studs last forever. My engine came with a brand new set of steel studs and that's what I'm using.

If you use steel studs it's wise to go back after a few heat cycles and check torque.....then do it again after a few more...if they are loose, keep doing it till they aren't..and what ever you do, don't let the engine get hot......over 220 deg..just my opinion. Yes, I'm a fan of Dilivar studs.

I use Racewear fasteners..so far so good

Thanks JP

Heat is THE killer of mag case motors. If you've installed case savers your chances of pulling one of these is less....but no guarantee regardless of stud type. Keeping the temps down is the ticket. My engine's studs (full thread Dilivars) held the initial torque I put on then till I took it apart 7 years later......so I'm sold on them .....which is not to say that other things won't work. The Dilivars have become frightfully expensive since the dollar took a dump.....along with first under rod & main bearings.

Dilivars that are plated and black epoxy hold up well ,
the old bare ones , corrosion is the killer. pop.

993 steel studs are fully coated and inexpensive. Seem to be the favored version (other than ARP/raceware) I used them in the 911. Used raceware nuts for access to the 2nd plugs though;)

Steel are OK for later models but I would only use Dilivar in the 2.7 mag cases. The Dilivar studs have pretty much the same expansion rates as the surrounding components. That's reason they're recommended.