Neal I like the stud idea. I would try that next time also.
I think that the bolts are 3-3.5" long. It won't matter if they are to long anywhere. Just a deeper socket will be needed.
CCLINSTUDSTERKEL

Can somebody post a pic of the inside of their trunk where the bolts go through? I am backdating this weekend and would appreciate the reference point.

Oh, regarding the "slight indentations" on the rear as noted above... I don't have them/can't see them. So far, just trying to line things up...

Regarding the old bumper cover tabs, I just bent them back and then used a rubber mallet to poiund them flat with the body. Any concerns with that? New rear chrome bumper seems to align fine.

The bolts go into the fenderwells, not the trunks. On the front they are just about centered, and I don't remember what the rear looked like.

If you have the dogbones they will give you the distance that you need for the holes that you will drill in the front and back.
The front holes exit out the back into the fender wells. The rears exit out in the engine bay or muffler area and the top hole exits into the rear trunk just below the tailights.
I do not have a pic to post. You will need the dogbones and the early
bumpers themselves to help give you a better idea as to where everything is drilled.
I also highly recommend that yuo get studs and screw them into the front and rear bumpers, and then secure them on the car with washers and nuts, rather than using the bolts, it is MUCH MUCH easier.
CCLINSTUDMUFFIN

BTW...once you have the bolt holes drilled....tape the dogbones to the bracket....makes the install easier....

Here are some pics on the outside first the back then the front. also a pic of the inside of the rear trunk also a pic of the inside of the front wheel well.
Craig

The final few...

Craig,

Thanks for the additional photos. This thread should go into the classics.

Just for info, the 75-76 Euro cars came with big rubber bumpers but without the shock absorbers. The steel structure inside the rubber bumper covers bolted directly to the body using two bolts and a rubber dogbone on each end. The Haynes manual shows this setup. I guess that is why the indentations for the bumper bolts are present in the 75-76 US cars.

Thanks all for the photos aqnd keeping this thread going. Got the bumpers on this afternoon and now are looking for the Blind Nuts to attach the fog lights.

Does anyone know of a web location that I can get these and in what size is best? I checked locally in Atlanta today and could not find any...

This is a great thread. Anybody got more pictures for the
conversion process?

Don
______________________________________________
1969 911S
1976 914 2.0
1981 911SC

Not sure how many more you could need.
CCL

OK- a great set of pictures ! I'm about ready to proceed, got a question about the parts that you show being cut of---as it related to a '75

1. What will the rubber bumper tabs interfere with during the installation ?

2. What does the front piece in front interfere with ?

# 1 the sides of the steel bumpers [bumper is narrower than the body with the bub [big ugly bumpers] tabs]

#2 the steel bumper has a rubber pad on the top and this will make contact with the front bub channel

The early bumpers hug the body a little too close to leave these mounting flanges for your late bumpers in place. I did it a little different than Craig in that instead of just using a cutoff wheel to remove them I used a spot weld bit and drilled them out. once you do that you can pretty much just peal them off.

Be careful along the front to leave enough so that the front trunk seal has a place to live...

Thanks for both replys. Can you describe a spot weld bit for me

The end is intended to dig out the weld. I found them at an autobody supply shop. The came in two sizes as I recall. I want to say 7 and 9MM?

The hard part was getting the position correct.

It can't be too hard. The guy who helped me proved to be a total idiot and mine turned out good. He did manage to destroy my stock motor though...

Whats the story on that? -Wes

Jim,
If you have access to a air compressor and a harbor freight $10 cutting tool (or electric cutting tool), all those pieces are real easy to remove. Just by grinding the spot welds some, not all the way through, the metal brackets will snap off. You can then cleanup the spot welds with the cutting tool. If you decide to drill, be real careful...that metal on the front of the car near the lip is real thin and it would be real easy to drill through.

I took all four bumper brackets and the hood lip off in less than an hour taking my time, including cleaning up the metal. Be prepared to really clean-up the metal under the lip by the front trunk...you will probably find some rust.

Would my dremel tool work ?

Thanks for all the replys, I got a better feel for the job.

Jim,

I found that using a hammer and chisel removed the tabs pretty well on our 75 project. It worked a lot better than using the angle grinder with a cutting disk.

Thanks, interesting.

The nuts for the fog lights are like the nuts shops install mirrors on doors with. They are nuts that go in like pop rivets. I think they are called nutzerts. I bought a kit of several sizes including a installing tool. The one I have is made by marson, I got it at the auto paint store many years ago.

I made aluminum block off plates to fill the shock holes in the front. These are the same size as the shock gasket retainer. To distribute the pressure a little better and to spread out the silicone sealant, I installed the shock gasket retainer as well. I did all of this to allow someone to return it to the stock bumpers someday if they wish.

Anyone see why this would not work?





Also, be prepared for suprises. I found some unpainted bondo under an area that the BBB covered, but the chrome bumper won't.

Cutting or removing the tabs without the proper tools will only get you frustrated and is not worth it. A 4" die grinder for $27 and some cutting wheels makes this a breeze!


The mockup makes it soo worth it!

I just unback dated my 76 and gave it back to my mom, the only thing I had cut was the side tabs, the front piece actually supported the fiberglass bumper I had previously installed. I wanted to use the CA bumper tits on a steel bumper too, but I installed them on the 76. Before and After:

I believe this explains it better:

On page 2 boxstr showed how to modify the frt end of a 76 or 75 to accept the earlier bumpers. It is unclear exactly what he is removing. Can anyone please elaborate. There is a "Z" channel that is spot welded on I can't tell if he is removing the whole thing or just part.

Thanks

David

Take it back until only the channel for the trunk rubber remains, just as the picture shows. My body man friend cut the lip off my car when it was painted. Didn't really pay any attention that he left about a eighth inch or so of material beyond the channel and now that we are fitting the front bumper and top there is a finger width gap between the bumper top and the hood. Now I have to cut it off after the car is painted and home. will post a pix when I get back over to the garage where the car is stored.

Also look at the thread for mounting the fogs and my recent thread about the cheap trick we used to mount them called how to mount pilot lights on a '76.

Dan

Shelby, explained that very well. Leave just the channel to hold the rubber trunk seal in place.
Leave more, you can then test fit the bumper, and if not fitting correctly remove more.easier that than trying to add material after the fact.

Harpo, if you need to call for a better explanation, call me at 503-799-5794
Craig at CAMP

Just dug this up out of the archive. The backdate was done at the Monarh Hotel parking lot at the WCR, back when
Some great pic of how-to; just don’t wear flip-flops when using a grinder...