Engines is out and on the stand and I'm replacing seals to chase a leak. *I think* the leak was coming from the taco plate. But, should I pull the pushrod tubes and seals while its out? I don't think it was leaking from the tubes but can't be 100% sure. Is it just as difficult to get them installed properly on the stand as it is in the car? I've done the search and I it appears often the leaks are worse after the first attempt at changing the seals. Not sure if this is because it's hard to be successful with the engine in the car.

Cheap insurance or don't F with it if it looks okay? Opinions please, never done it before so don't know what I'm in for...

Kev

Dude your so close, ya might as well.

It's a hell of a lot easier with the motor out. Having said that, I pulled my motor, re-sealed it, and all of the push rod tube orings at the head end leak. They went in perfect.

while out.
remove head tin.
Clean cylinders with fine brushes so the air moves again.
Remove front fan shroud.

Replace
front seal
oil cooler seals
push rod tube seals
oil pressure sensor seal and boot
oil filler tower lower gasket and cover gasket (additional o-ring for LJet)
Distributor o-ring
rear main seal
valve cover gaskets

Adjust your valves while out...its alot easier and you can take the time to get it perfect.

Pushrod tube seals are alot easier to do while the motor is out...
The reason most people have leaks is that the inner seat for the tube may not be smooth and while installing the seals, people are in a hurry.

You should lube up the seals with a good petroleum lubricant, and slowly twist them while pushing in place...
If they get torn while installing, that is why they leak.

Rich

Damn, not good. I was going to buy new tubes, seals and loctite 565 from Jake's store since he seems to have zero issues. I know good parts aren't a substitute for technique but I know his seals will fit right.

Your results are what makes me pause on what seems like should be a slam dunk.

Bye the way... Gint.

Thanks!

I pretty much did everything Rich just listed BTW. And you have to do a valve adjustment if you change the tube seals since you're removing the rocker arm assemblies. My motor is nice and dry with the exception of the tube oring seals at the head.

Look at it this way. I did anyway... When you get the motor back in if the tube seals leak, you'll know exactly how to install new ones (again) and so it will be easier even if the motor is in the car. Cap'n Krusty says he can do it in an hour in the car. Having done it once now I could probably get it done in 4 hours with the motor in at a nice leisurely pace.

You have nothing to lose by doing it now and everything to gain if you get it right.

I bought the same from Jake's store. Additionally, I changed out my oil cooler seals (which were leaking pretty badly). I haven't seen any oil under my engine since.

If they have been leaking and the engine is out, replace them. If they haven't been leaking and the engine is out, replace them. If you install them and they STILL leak? They didn't go in "perfectly".