I am having issues narrowing down the source of some clutch issues and am hoping someone more knowledgeable then myself might be able to help. I can not seem to get it adjusted properly, it is either to loose and i can not fully disengage the clutch, or to tight and slips under power. In both cases clutch pedal feel is wrong as well.

Here is where i am at so far...
I recently installed a new clutch and swapped the tranny for one in much better shape that i had laying around. Clutch cable is a new terry cable and does not feel to be binding at all. I first suspected the clutch cable tube so I have triple checked that and all appears to be solid. I pulled the tranny again and checked the shims under the pivot ball. Where it sits right now with 2 shims I can just barely slide my finger between the clutch fork and the case, so i figure about a half inch of free movement there. If i add a third shim I have no free movement of the clutch fork when the tranny so i left it at two.

With everything hooked up it seems almost as if i am not getting enough movement of the clutch cable at the tranny end, ill check the total motion tonight to be sure. Could this possibly be some issue with the pedal assembly or do i need to add that third shim to the pivot ball?

This problem seems to have developed over time, i would slightly tighten the clutch cable to keep the gears from grinding and it go to the state it is now where it is either slipping for grinding. It ultimately got much worse on my way to the last autox, Went to change gears on the way there and it felt like something in the clutch linkage just popped or slipped and i had to go much further down on the pedal before it even begun to release. I checked everything again after that and it all seemed to be the same.

Any ideas?

is the flyweel stock or did it get machined at some point?
Is the clutch release for straight? (they bend)
And then pivot ball, could be worn.

Cables stretch, but typically after two adjustments its done.

rich

Pretty sure the flywheel was machined at some point. Clutch fork is straight, have used 2 different ones and the problem is still there. Tried 2 different pivot balls as well.

How about providing a picture of the transmission on the clutch cable side?

Installed or removed from the car? Ill look and see if i took any shots of that, and if not ill take some when i get home.

Could be. Just had a car in the shop with the same issue. Found the OE plastic bushings in the pedal cluster worn and very very soft. Rebuilt the cluster with bronze bushings and the clutch now works fine.

That is what i am suspecting at this point as i double checked everything else, i just was not sure if bad bushings could make that much of a difference in cable travel.

I just rebuilt my cluster with the brass bearings last weekend. What a difference!!! My clutch is much more precise!!!

This was a key symptom with the car Ed (ejm) worked on. I couldn't describe exactly what I didn't like about the feel but it was perfect after the bushing replacement.

It wont be a waste of time either...if you are running stock plastic you will love the brass pedal bushings anyways...

If the flywheel was machined (you can measure this with the tranny out) the measurement between where the pressure plate mounts and the lower friction portion of the flywheel need to be the same as stock..

In other words, when a flywheel is machined smooth, they need to grind two surfaces to maintain the same measurement.
If that measurement is wrong, you add shims to the ball to make up the difference.
I have also seen people bend clutch forks to make up the difference.
Personally I would switch the flywheel, or get it reground to spec.

Rich