the exhaust studs that go into the head.
should i put med strength loctite
or should i be putting anti sieze on them?

also
do i need to drop the oil to change the
push rod tube seals?

antisieze !

they'll never unscrew themselves, and any LocTite that could take the heat would be way too permanent anyway.

i can't help you on the pushrod tube seal question. logic says if the pushrod tube opening in the case is below the oil level the oil won't drain out of the heads, but i just don't know. i bet it's close, and as long as your're going to be doing a disagreeable job to begin with, what's the added effort of an oil change :-) ... i donno; i've never done pushrod tube seals ...

I finally solved my exhaust leak with these 8mm X 9mm big ass exhaust studs. Inboard #3 stud always backed of so I finally drilled it to 5/16 and tapped it to fit 9mm. I also used red Locktite and torqued them to 18ftlbs

Dave

dave, did small car sell you the nut in the middle or the the one on the right? did you buy, have any, extra step up studs?

kevin

Kevin

I used these. I have 1 unused and 1 I can clean up

Dave

then i presume you had to use washers. i don't like the way the ones you used sit on the flanges of the he's. the 1/4" drive socket worked well removing the 13mm nuts. if the studs are the right size i would like to get them. i going to call you.

kevin

I use this style nut , I dont have a photo but I also use VW Rabitt Diesel Ex. Studs for repairing stripped studs.

Use anti-sieze on the studs.

Don't drain the oil to change the pushrod tube seals. Just have rags on hand to wipe up the relatively small amount that will drip out when you remove the valve covers.

--DD

Use MILK OF MAGNESIA on the exhaust studs, best damn anti seize in the world!

I have removed exhaust flanges from Turbo Shaft engines that see thousands of degrees with no problems by using the stuff. I also use it on spark plugs as it does not affect the grounding of the plug.

Ask Dr. MoM.


M

Thanks Dave.

are you serious?