Okay, I kicked ass this week, got my interior finished, got my CHROME bumpers on, valences painted and on, dropped the front 3/4", installed foglights, got my stereo together...and installed new breather box.
Question-
You vent the crankcase and heads (or valve covers as the case may be) to the box, but thats all positive pressure- is it critical to vent the box to a carb or to the outside atmosphere? I've usually seen them setup this way, but never heard it was necessary.
Also, I have a 70', haven't cut into the harness at the front yet, what color are they and where's the best place to find the foglight wires?
I found them next to the headlight switch.
TIA
Robert O

if you don't vent the box somewhere it'll puke oil all over the place if you push the engine hard for a while.

(ask seanery )

either vent it into a "puke" bottle or back into the air-cleaner portion of your carbs ...
Andy

white with yellow stripe ...

comes off pin 87 of the relay for the fog-lamps,
if you don't have that yet, you needa add that to the fuse-block, the wires should already be there ...

fog-light relay:
==========
red/back to pin 30
white/blue to pin 85
gray/red to pin 86
white/yellow on pin 87
87a seems to be not connected!

87 goes to fog-lights
86 goes to the K pin on the fog light switch
85 goes to pin 56 at the combination relay
30 goes to fuse number 10

fog-light switch:
===========
K (gray/red) goes to 86 on relay
31 (brown) goes to 31 on emergency flasher (ground)
15 (black/blue) goes to 58b on light switch


hope that helps
Andy

YES!
I owe you a beer.

hmm...I can prolly get a relay that'll do that at local foreign auto place or electrical, eh?

i'm not entirely sure what excat relay you need.
some on my fuse block are just the usual round ones you find everywhere else
and i think the square one is the blinker relay.
i also have another black square one just hanging behind the dash.
maybe that's the fog-light relay ...

i can go and get the numbers off them for you tomorrow,
Andy

ok, just double-checked, foglight relay is supposed to be the standard round relay in a rubber socket on the fuse-block ...

Andy

Mr Andy-
I had the fuse panel down today and my Haynes manual says the relay is there.
I got 3 round relays- (early style) and the square blinker relay and dimmer relay.
1Door Buzzer (gone!) it started working the other day.
2 "Auxiliary headlights" (foglights to us americans?)
3 And Fresh Air Fan - which dont work anyhow.

So I hook the wires to the lights, hook the wires to the switch and then pull on it?
Cool... .thanks Andy!
Robert O

Just to clarify, the ports in the heads/valve covers are negative pressure. Air gets sucks into the heads there. That's why the stock FI hosts T into the air cleaner. Clean air into the heads.

TRU DAT!
no, err, ...yeah, not sure what I was thinking up there. Thats why you get SUCKED valve cover gaskets on not blown out ones.

are you taking about air-injection into the exhaust (through the head)? if so, you're right.
but that's late model cars with smog crap only.

as for the ports on the valve-covers, those have positive pressure (is that a real word?) from the engine, just like the oil-breather port ...
Andy

I'm not talking about emissions.

Now, go pull the hose that comes out of the top of the T going to the air cleaner (the one that hides by the Oil Filler) and put your finger over it while the car is running. Sucky suck.

i would if i had anything like that.

NO ports on my heads or valve covers, sorry Mr. Mac

but i DO know that seans car was puking oil all over the engine comp on my 2000+ miles trip to the east coast. turned out, brad had run the 3 hoses (2 from the heads, 1 from the oil-filler) into the collector box and that was it (no venting).

engine got hot and started puking oil out of any crack that it could find.

added a "breather-hose" to a puke-bottle from the box, and all was guud ...

Andy

suck suck into the air-cleaner?

No, sucky suck into the heads. You made me walk all the way out and fire up the green venison machine to test and...

I'M RIGHT!

Air is sucked into the heads. INTO THE HEADS DAMMIT!

:finger2:

Damn German...

where does it go inside the heads?
and why would it be sucked in? now i'm confused ...

there's nothing behind the valve cover that would create -pressure. the pushrod tubes just connect it to the crank-case (which has +pressure),
so where does the "suckage" come from ????

Andy

Don't know why... but air goes into the heads, through the pushrod tubes into the crankcase and out the PCV/oil filler.

The suckage comes from them being 30 year old pieces of shit!



M

this calls for a better explanation ...

where are the T-IV experts when you need them?
Andy

My old "Clymer" manual says you could both be right.
At least if it were a 356- close enough.
Seems that different RPM produces different pressure in the valve train area.
Talks a bit about the Super 90 vented valve covers w/check ball. At higher engine speeds more of a vacuum is created due to the movement of air around the pushrod / lifter. Balance is created in this situation by the road draft tube, or vented oil filler.
The crankcase is defnitely 'pressurized' while the engine is running, the valve train area has "variable pressure". . .. .?
I dunno anymore. I was used to seeing 'sucked'
valve cover gaskets. Especially on 356's / 912's / VW's.
But then what's the meaning of "vented" valve covers?
Hopefully Jaby will see this and set me straight.

Hey, I heard my car got some help with a little extra oil, too.
Overfill causes seepage, ya knkow?!

here's mine. line runs from the oil fill tower to the box, then to each of the ports on the heads. box has a foam element to trap the vapors. waste drains back to the engine. it works but is a messy setup to clean and there is still dirty oil introduced to the engine. i'm going to change it to a setup that uses a k&n type breather and a plastic bottle that i can just throw away.

kevin

I hate those crappy things but this is what I do with em:
First I grind the tit's off the body where the cover mates to it, then I toss the foam and use a SS pot scrubber, then I put it together with a bit of sealant. I mount the unit above the breather/oil fill and run a hose from the lowest port back to the stock breather and the highest to the air filter.

On the sucky-suck issue + on acceleration, - on deceleration.

i don't like pulling the shit into the carbs. easier to clean an engine comparment. i'd rather squeeze a little bit of oil out of the foam.

kevin

This T1 2007cc engine has a lot of miles on it with this set-up, never an issue, and I never have oil shit blown everywhere. I also have at least a couple of dozen+ customer’s cars done this way, again no problems. If you look at a stock set-up (any/all cars) this is basically what the factory does. All of today’s cars (including yours I see) have a PCV valve.

On the pictured engine I did the top end not long ago, everything looked great, just touched up the valves/seats. So to me saying you pull shit through the carb is just that, BS. It's just oil vapour and maybe a very small amount of water vapour.

To top it off it's environmentally friendlier.

Mark,

on an engine with head/valve cover ports where would you run those lines to?

Thanks,

Tony

To the breather box as well.

This is a breather box made by Gene Berg for the Type 1, I'm going to make a box something like it that mounts to the stock location for my personal T4 build. Most likely I will cut up a stock unit and modify it.

Note in the pic the box is on it's side, cap and carb port faces up. Oil return goes on the bottom, head/cover ports in the middle and the carb port on the top.

Mark,

Thanks, I am going to TIG something similar up...I have a bunch of 2" alum tubing, so I am going to make something like the things that JAZ sells...

do you put a K/N style breather on those or does the vent to the carb do the same?

Tony

I don't know if I've seen the Jaz unit. The little K&N filter does the same thing as the cheap unit does, makes a mess. I vent to the carbs.

I know that everyone will not agree with me and a lot of six guy's use a puke bottle, but this has always worked for me with no issues or mess.

Here is a pic of the unit I was talking about:



Tony