I am playing around with the idea of swapping to a full Fiberglass body. The F/G panels will be bolted in place from behind by way of glassed in studs. The fenders and door skins would be removable but look like they are part of a solid body.
My question is this: has any one delt with zero-kewl914 on ebay and if so how was the quality of the 'glass?
I really like the idea of light weight removable panels, but could I make it look good?
Here are some pics of this guys stuff. Here is a link.
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Full Version: Anyone bought F/G from zero-kewl914?
Don't do it!!!! Keep the anklebiter steel body!
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Bought a set of his gt rockers for my race car project. THey were so far off that I ended up cutting the ends off and riveting them to the stock appearing FG ones that came on the car when I purchased it. I now have about 4 feet of unuseable rockerpanel glass left over!
Any FG panel or flare needs A LOT of massaging to fit properly.
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Bought a set of his gt rockers for my race car project. THey were so far off that I ended up cutting the ends off and riveting them to the stock appearing FG ones that came on the car when I purchased it. I now have about 4 feet of unuseable rockerpanel glass left over!
Any FG panel or flare needs A LOT of massaging to fit properly.
QUOTE(BKLA @ Jun 27 2008, 10:15 AM) 
Don't do it!!!! Keep the anklebiter steel body!
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Bought a set of his gt rockers for my race car project. THey were so far off that I ended up cutting the ends off and riveting them to the stock appearing FG ones that came on the car when I purchased it. I now have about 4 feet of unuseable rockerpanel glass left over!
Any FG panel or flare needs A LOT of massaging to fit properly.
good glass is almost impossible to find.
the only source of excellent FG parts that i know of is Roger Sheridan. i've been to his shop. top notch.
however, i'm not sure he makes GT quarter panels. can't hurt to ask him ...
http://www.ultimate914.com/
Andy
QUOTE
the only source of excellent FG parts that i know of is Roger Sheridan
There's another guy that Mark came up with a few months back. He was fed up with bad glass and decided to do his own thing. Not sure if he propsered or not. Mark may be able to help with the link.
Yeah I thought it was too cheap to be good. I guess steel is the way to go if I want the car to look good. Thanks for keeping me on track guys!
Unless you want to do a sheridan narrow body kit on your car, MUHA!
"the Hemet guy" I have this guys deck lids on my AX beast. they look fairly straight, fit well and are LIGHT LIGHT LIGHT. FG is not really for DD street cars.
But a Sheridan body is a very good thing for any car 
I'd really like to have one.
I'd really like to have one.
Good fiberglass is too hard to find. Roger leaves his stuff in the molds for a long time to ensure that it retains it's shape but most places pull it out quickly so they can pound out another one ASAP. Even if you have good molds you can make bad parts.
I have personally made a plethora of plugs/ molds for race cars. Fiberglass is something of an art to produce a perfect panel versus OEM steel body panels.
If you are expecting a show quality surface from production f/g parts you will be disappointed. Sheridans products are top notch for the money and unique to the 914. Roger is ahead of the game. Fiberglass body panels are intended for racing which is short term and considered consumable unless modified for street use.
If you are looking for perfection in fit and finish your expectations will not be met. Most glass panels are considered 10/10........ok from 10 feet away. All f/g panels require fit and finish work. Not trying to discourage you but expect a lot of re-working to make it look factory. Quality is 100% dependant on mat layup or chopper gun manufacture.
I have seen (zero-kewl914's) parts and for the money are not bad. Zack Schmidt is is the man behind the screen name. Zack's plugs are taken from a real flaired 914. The gap between the fender and doors will most likely need re-work as they are known to be short and rough cut as fiberglass normally is. This is reflected in his molds that still have the oem spot weld impressions visable in the gelcoat. Again for the money not bad. Glass is glass though! You need to accept that it just needs to be worked.
To obtain a high quality OEM finish you will need to fit the panel correctly. This can be done with epoxy to secure the panels or Dzus fasteners for quick removal. Also expect at least 4 hours of labor per panel for fit and finish work to match the OEM gaps and surface. The gelcoat will need to be coated with about 10 mils of Dura-Tech then blocked down to 3-6 mils to eliminate waves and sealed prior to color. Additional impact coatings on the underside are reqiured for street use. (buildup of glass mat,carbon fiber mat or kevlar tape).
As long as you understand what is coming you should not have any surprises. Afterall even factory panels require fitting.
If you are expecting a show quality surface from production f/g parts you will be disappointed. Sheridans products are top notch for the money and unique to the 914. Roger is ahead of the game. Fiberglass body panels are intended for racing which is short term and considered consumable unless modified for street use.
If you are looking for perfection in fit and finish your expectations will not be met. Most glass panels are considered 10/10........ok from 10 feet away. All f/g panels require fit and finish work. Not trying to discourage you but expect a lot of re-working to make it look factory. Quality is 100% dependant on mat layup or chopper gun manufacture.
I have seen (zero-kewl914's) parts and for the money are not bad. Zack Schmidt is is the man behind the screen name. Zack's plugs are taken from a real flaired 914. The gap between the fender and doors will most likely need re-work as they are known to be short and rough cut as fiberglass normally is. This is reflected in his molds that still have the oem spot weld impressions visable in the gelcoat. Again for the money not bad. Glass is glass though! You need to accept that it just needs to be worked.
To obtain a high quality OEM finish you will need to fit the panel correctly. This can be done with epoxy to secure the panels or Dzus fasteners for quick removal. Also expect at least 4 hours of labor per panel for fit and finish work to match the OEM gaps and surface. The gelcoat will need to be coated with about 10 mils of Dura-Tech then blocked down to 3-6 mils to eliminate waves and sealed prior to color. Additional impact coatings on the underside are reqiured for street use. (buildup of glass mat,carbon fiber mat or kevlar tape).
As long as you understand what is coming you should not have any surprises. Afterall even factory panels require fitting.
I have a set of his front and rear hoods. They are not perfect but I’m happy with them. I don't know about his other parts. My car is for autocross only.
He seems to be a nice guy on the phone. Give him a call and talk to him.
He seems to be a nice guy on the phone. Give him a call and talk to him.
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