Hey Chris, I did get the historic plate so I am good to go, let me know when you're ready and I'll shoot you the info on the process, fairly straight forward.

Well, after a slew of other things and finally getting in all the parts save one which I will get locally, I am hoping to start the motor tear down this weekend.

The money issue with Christoph got resolved as the guys doing the book keeping were not using the correct numbers. Long story but I did quite a bit of numbers crunching and historical research on past documents and pointed out the mistakes they made.

So, the bike is back up and running, the ABS sensor on the van is fixed and I don't have any more trips to Africa until December. Time to get started...again!

The goal is to get the whole thing done before the end of October. Whether that happens or not we will see but I want it up and running so I can pull the wheels off the bike as I intend to get them powder coated black this winter. Tired of @#$%^ with the chrome! Only chrome I want is on the air cleaners and the auxiliary lights! Thinking of wrapping the exhaust is some special cloth or getting them powder coated as well.

Ok, after spending the morning making a castle out of cardboard and toilet paper roll tubes I finally got around to tearing the motor down. After separating the trans from the motor I pulled the clutch and flywheel and got quite a bit of oil, see picture.
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So, is this normal or excessive? I had some oil leakage coming out of the area where the tranny and motor mated so I am of the thought that this is one of the oil leaks.

The oil cooler had not oil residue where the rubber gaskets were mounted so that is not the issue on the front. I will hopefully get around to breaking the motor down the rest of the way tomorrow. Hopefully I will find where the leak is from the front when I do this.

OK, so remember the plan I had to get the motor done by the end of October? Yeah....about that.

So, after a trip to San Antonio to deal with an ailing father, I am back in Germany and getting ready to tackle the motor rebuild again. Before I left I had completed cleaning most of the case up and had re-sealed and assembled the case.

I need to finish some final cleaning on the #1 cylinder area of the case before I call that complete. Once that is done I will move to the cleaning of the cylinders and pistons then installment of front and rear seals as well as re-checking end-play.

I am hoping that I can get the motor finished up and re-assembled during the long Thanksgiving weekend. I still need to tackle the transmission though so getting the car on the road will take a bit. Guess I'm riding the bike in the cold again this winter! Good think I got new rubber, brake pads and a new clutch put in!

Now, I need to re-do the mounting brackets for the engine lid as the driver's side L-bracket is cracked. I am thinking the best bet remove both old brackets and put in two new ones, preferably ones I bolt in. Anyone have any recommendations?

I also need to re-install new heater cable wires and check that the existing blower is actually working. It seems that I am never done with this thing but then I'm preaching to the choir on this forum. Let the madness continue!

Good to know you are still at it.

Um, cycling is good for you anyway....

cycling? Are you on crack?! Unless it's got a motor, I ain't interested! I gotta friggin run in the cold as it is cause the Army says I have too, I ain't gonna cycle to work!!!

I did run into a slight problem this evening, finished cleaning the last cylinder area and started to re-install the oil strainer, oil drain plug and oil sump plate. Well, the friggin oil sump plate nuts stripped out the hole in the case...dangit!

Such is my luck. Anyone replace those with studs instead of re-tapping the dang things?

Did you get the stripped holes issue figured out? How's your project coming along?

Jim,
I have a timesert kit on order, yeah, it may be overkill but I don't want to have to do it again. I did read on the forum where it was advised against using studs so I decided not to go that route. Until the kit comes in I'll just focus on cleaning up the heads, cylinders and pistons in preparation for re-assembly.

I do need to order the crush washer's for the oil strainer cap and drain plug though. Maybe I'll order a dozen or so, that way I'll have them when I change the oil.

For a car that was supposed to spare me the hassle of riding in the cold, rain and sometimes snow here in Germany, it hasn't helped much. On the other hand, I have learned quite a bit from this project so I won't really complain, I'll leave that to the wife! I'm sooo gonna have to let her buy a nice BMW sedan before we leave Germany

You need to do an RFO for sunny warm FT. Drum. You would have so much time on your hands.

OH, you mean the place where you get issued a snow blower with your on-post housing? Yeah, that ain't happenin! My buddy tried to pull me along with him but I think I will stay away from Watertown for as long as I can avoid it!

Lived in Buffalo for a couple of years, no desire to go back to NY; just not the state for me.

Well, haven't had much time to work on the motor as of late but I did get the timesert kit in and fixed the small bolt issue. I was hoping to get more done than that but it's been a bit hectic as of late. Can't do much this weekend since the wife is in Copenhagen, Denmark with her friends and I have the denizen of destruction for all this past week and weekend. Working on teaching her how to pour a good scotch!

Wife gets back tomorrow but I then take off for NC for a conference next week and get back on Friday at which point I get the youngun again since the wife will be in Paris for the weekend with some other friends of her. I did get the oil in the Toyota changed this morning, took me a whopping 15 minutes to include filter change. Of course the knucklehead in front of me took a friggin hour! Some people should not be allowed to work on their cars...wait, I'm probably one of them

So, I guess this project is at a standstill at the moment; say la vie.

Well, I finally got started again...just in time to head to Africa...again. I did get the oil sump bolt holes for the taco plate done so that should be a non-issue.

After some vigorous cleaning and other work, I have the motor out of the basement and partially assembled. Cleaned up the pistons and cylinders, reinstalled them along with the seals and cylinder head. Need to put in the oil tubes and rods then can finish the rest of the motor assembly. I am pretty sure I have covered all the bases on oil leak possibilities!

Moved the gearbox to the basement yesterday, will clean that up and replace some seals when I get back from my foray into the wilds of Africa. Once that is done, I need to clean up the heat exchange system and do some brazing to fill in some holes in the exchanger. Haven't done brazing in years but I think I can figure it out without too much problems. It wasn't that hard as I recall....

Once that is done, on to the final assembly! I need to have it done before June as I have to re-register it on post. Once I get it past inspection the next project is to replace all 4 brake calipers with Eric's rebuilt ones. After that, I ain't touching her until I get it back stateside. Need to work on my MG motor so I can tackle that project when I return to the states.

Oh wait, I forgot, need to fix the engine bay mounting brackets after I get the car up and running. Otherwise she won't close. Will have to pull off both brackets and put in new ones. One is riveted in so won't be an issue, the other unfortunately is welded! That should be fun

Any progress is good progress. Good luck.

OK, started on the transmission yesterday. Fun...I got the rear plate off but then hit a snag. I have followed Red Beard's instructions as well as Bondo's in the classic's thread but the two shift rods refuse to allow me to 'tap' them in.

I can get either the 2/3 or the 4/5 rods down but when I get one down the other won't budge. So, frustrated, I did more on the motor. Got the tubes, rods, valve train and oil cooler installed. Even remembered to put the cylinder head tin on first this time!! Not that I have ever installed the tubes first...

So, I have a bit more on the motor and she is done, I just need to get the transmission torn down, inspect the gears and conduct repairs as needed. Anyone got any ideas on what I am possibly doing wrong on the transmission tear down? I sent Bondo a PM and left a note on the PP forum as well. Unfortunately, I am traveling again tomorrow so won't be able to pursue this more until I get back.

As a last question, anyone ever blast the trans case to clean it before painting? I don't have a cleaner available but I do have a blaster but want to get feed back before I tackle the case; if I can blast it the cleaning will be quicker otherwise, I do the old fashioned hand and wire brush method.

I think you need to review my pictorial on removing the stack. You can not select 4/5 and 2/3 if it is working correctly. You only need to select 5th (rod in) to pull the stack. The rest of them dont need to be messed with.

Click on my rebuild link below and I have instructions for pulling the stack.

Need a rebuild DVD???

I though you were out, I will PM you. Will look at your thread, hopefully I can tackle it when I get back to Germany this weekend. Thanks.

OK, so, after three weeks of traveling to take care of my father who passed away this past May. I finally got back around to the car. Mike, AKA Dr. Evil, sent me his DVD for tranny rebuild which I began watching to see how the written tutorial coincided with the video. I like the video better as I learn better seeing the actual action so thanks Mike!

Now, the only thing I will complain about is the fact that the good doctor makes removing the snap rings off the dog teeth easy... not so much. Although, I think he had a bigger tool than I did Seriously, his snap ring removal tool was bigger than the dinky German one I have and I believe that size does make a difference in this case.

So where do we stand right now? Well, the case is being cleaned, will get it back next week and, the gear stack is completely broken down.
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Well, I didn't understand the 'roof line' comment at first while watching the video but once I 'looked' at the gears and sliders I understood what he meant. As anticipated in Mike's comments, the slider for 4 and 5 wasn't in too bad shape but the 2/3 slider has some flat roof tops and need's replacement. I will probably replace both slider for good measure. What concerned me more was the 1/R slider which is the expensive one. I am think that this is toast, thoughts?
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I will attach a picture of the synchro rings in the next post for comments.

OK, pictures of the synchro rings; I stacked them together and took the photo. I am thinking a couple will need replacement but I need to re-watch the inspection portion of the video before I complete the assessment.
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Will probably order everything this week but have a heavy travel schedule for July so won't get to it until August. In the meantime, hope all you fathers out there had a happy father's day!

4 bad rings

Your first slider needs a shot across the flat side at the teeth, basically a profile shot from the outside in. It looks gone in the original pic.

I have parts for low $$

Oh ya, I will bet that you have a bad 2-5 slider, particularly on the 2nd gear side, and bad teeth on 1st and 2nd (maybe 3 and 4 as well looking at those rings). PM me and I will get you a parts list.

Yeah, I re-viewed the part about the rings and figured I'd need 4 new ones. I'll get you some better shots tomorrow after work of the #1/R slider. Of the other two sliders, one is what I would consider toast and the other looks usable. Will get some better pictures to you tomorrow to evaluate via PM.

I'm gonna price out the parts at the local Porsche dealer down the road from me for shits and giggles but have a feeling it will be a bit exorbitant!

my email for pics is MakeMy914go at yahoo

Pictures sent.

OK, so, after close to two months on the road between Africa and the US I am finally back in Deutschland for almost a whole month!

So I began re-assembly of the transmission starting with the pinion gear.
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As one can see, this went fairly smoothly. Of course it helped that I had Mike's DVD playing as I did it. I would stop, rewind, pause, then move forward again to make sure I had things straight.

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Yes, that's a potty training seat in the background, anyone need one?

Next, on to the drive shaft assembly. Again, same thing, play, pause, reverse, play, pause, move forward. I thought I was doing well until I tightened down the stretch bolt.

What I noticed in Mike's video was the whole pinion assembly turned freely when he turned the drive shaft. Mine did too UNTIL I tightened the bolt the the required 80ft lbs. After that, it didn't turn like it did before.
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So, I sent a note to Mike and what you see above is where I have stopped for today. I don't want to get too far along if I need to disassemble the gear stack again to make sure I put it together properly. Hopefully I can tackle it a bit more later tonight or tomorrow. Slowly moving forward and yes, I painted everything yellow, better to see leaks with!

Did you put the washer under the stretch bolts?? Sounds like they are missing and if so it will bind.

Sorry, scratch my last. I thought you were talking about the out put flanges.

If binding happens after tightening the main pinion bolt, then I am betting the impression that you may have mixed up the thrust washers under 1st, 2nd and over fifth.

A couple of other thoughts:

Are the gears with steps on them oriented correctly?
3 with step towards int plate
I can see 4 is correct
Is 5 correct?

Still thinking thrust washer issue. There are 3. The thinnest goes under 1st. Under 2 and over 5 needed to be kept not-mixed-up as doing sow will give you your symptoms.

Mike,
I will check on everything you posted as a potential culprit and let you know what I discover.

So, upon inspection, Master Evil correctly deduced that I had boogered up the Pinion shaft assembly. Mixed up the spacer after 5th gear on the shaft. Fixed that, put it together, torqued it and TADA! Works like a champ.

So on to the rest of the assembly, got the forks on and adjusted according to Mikes intensely detailed procedure for tail shifters... he, he, he, he...will post pictures later. Began the inspection of the case and installed the seals and, as Mike pointed out is often the case, no throw out bearing guide clips were anywhere to be found. At least he had one in his video, I had none! So I'll be stopping by the local Porsche dealer to see if I can get my hands on a pair.

Shouldn't derail the rest of the assembly though so will move forward the rest of this week with the hopes of getting it put together by the end of the week! Famous last words

It's done! The Tranny that is, still have more work to do on the car but I got the final piece on this morning and then made sure all the bolts were torqued properly.

I almost had it done on Saturday but the tail cone gave me a bit of a challenge and I was tired so I figured I'd try again the next morning.

Mike's video was a tremendous help and he has the patience of a saint when dealing with retards like myself! Now, I need to get to work on the shift linkage, heating system and then re-do the engine bay brackets and she should be rolling. Once I get the motor married up and everything mounted we'll see if I put everything together correctly on the tranny.

Some pictures, again, yes, its 'sunflower yellow.' Easier for me to see leaks with!
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We head to Tuscany for a mini-vacation then I am on the road again for work so the next step will have to wait a bit. Hopefully I can get it done before it gets to cold.

OK, so, after a rather frigid friggin winter here in Germany and a lot of travel, I finally started working on the car again. As noted previously, I got the transmission done thanks to the helpful advice of Herr Evil

So, I began working on the shift linkage assembly to hopefully remove some of the slop; yeah I know, the only way to really get rid of it is to get me a side shifter. Eventually but right now the Tail shifter is what I have to work with.

I looked up some of the threads on PP and began down that road rebuilding the shifter assembly first then moving on to doing some other parts inspections and replacements. I replaced some bushings and balls and, after close inspection and cleaning of the shift rod, had to replace that as well. towards the front of the rod where it mates to the balls on the back of the firewall, there was a rather large 'slice' for lack of a better word that split the rod. It was about 2 inches long and about 3mm wide. Luckily, there is a guy here in Germany who has a lot of used parts that I was able to get a new/used rod from.

After all that was done I began cleaning the engine tin screws. Discovered an interesting phenomenon. If you put the screws into 'rust treatment' solution, a German brand, and forget about it for a week, when you get back, you have what looks like a fossilized rock from a tar pit. The solution solidified around all the screws! Guess I'll be getting new screws.

So I decided to tackle the re-threading of the heater cables. WHAT A ROYAL PAIN IN THE ASS!!! Not that I wasn't expecting that, as I searched the forum for 'solutions' to get the driver side cable through the bend it was clearly evident that this was not going to be easy. I did it though and got a good layer of grease on the inside of the tubes to keep em moving smoothly.

Time to replace the heater hoses, that was easy, check the flapper boxes, they are ugly but move fine. Still need to wire the heater lever to the control panel but I may actually have heat in the car this winter!

So what do I have left? Well here is my list at the moment.

1. Replace exhaust studs.
2. Install new exhaust gaskets.
3. Fill up transmission with fluid.
4. Finish assembling motor with transmission.
5. Clean up the carbs (they have been sitting so I am pretty sure the gas has crystallized on the needles.)
6. Finish wiring the heater lever to the control box.
7. install the motor.
8. Time the motor.
9. Get it inspected.

At this point I just need her to run reliably without any major exhaust or oil leaks. Once this is done, I can get her registered and then she is ready to ship back stateside next year. I have one more year here in Germany then I head back to the states.

After I put my MG back together, I'll completely tear the 914 down to the frame and start all over again! But this time it will be a methodical and deliberate process that gets her completely up to snuff. I sometimes wonder if I have taken leave of my senses but then I remember that I re-married and had another kid so the answer is...yes.

OK, I'm on the home stretch, exhaust studs...good, gaskets...good. Air flap roller...what? Well this sucks, I don't have one.

So, I can't finish putting in the bellows and hook it up to the cooling flap assembly without this piece. I have an email out to Patrik Hess here in Germany to see if he has one then it struck me, it's just a pulley wheel, wonder if I could just buy the wheel at a hardware store and retrofit it?

Here is my question, anyone know the diameter of the pulley wheel?

I have no idea what a air flap roller is. Gottsa picture?

Click to view attachment ITEM# 19

Porsche Part# 021 119 769 A. The thermostat attaches to the lower portion of the crankcase, the cable runs up towards the cooling flaps but goes 'around' the roller to facilitate the expansion and collapse of the bellows as the motor heats up and cools down.

Most no longer have this on their cars, I got the set up so see if it would help with starting in the lovely cold weather here in Germany.

OK, looks like we're going to plan 'B' for the roller as my supplier here doesn't have any so, off to Hornbach this week to find a suitable replacement.

I do have a question though, since the hole goes all the way through I would assume that the bolt holding the roller is fairly tight to keep oil from leaking. This of course means the 'roller' doesn't really 'roll' now does it.

So is it a safe assumption to say that I should, 'grease' the cable lightly and the surface of the roller where the cable makes contact heavily or is the friction so slight that it doesn't really matter?

Inquiring minds want to know!

Could be (I have no first-hand experience...) the roller has a sleeve bushing/bearing on which it rotates. That would be my guess.

Alternatively, your bolt #20 could be a shoulder screw with a long unthreaded portion to act as an axle.

If you're building up something from generic industrial parts, either approach could work. You could possibly just use a stud and add spacers to secure a bushing/bearing for the roller to spin on, with a locking nut on the outside.

I'd think there's no hope of a threadlocker actually sealing a threaded hole with oil in it.

The bolt has a shoulder so when its tight the pulley will move freely.

hmm, well, I can't get the original bolt so I'll just do some experimenting but if I understand you correctly the roller should actually roll at least enough to facilitate cable movement.

I have an engineer in my office who builds airplanes; he recommended using the sleeve for a bicycle cable to run the cable through with grease. He used this type of set up for his ultra-light aircraft and stated that the sleeve would be resistent to heat.

The concept is secure the puller, run the cable over it to the cooling flaps or, use some type of clip to secure the cable in place using the existing bolt and do away with the puller entirely. Thoughts?

Oh ya, Duh! Here's a bump. Maybe someone has the correct bolt and roller they can send you.

Thanks Rick problem solved though. I went to the trusty ol Hornbach here in Germany and then did some creative problem solving.

So, Hornbach didn't have any 'rollers' or pulley type wheels that were not attached to something. After looking around, I found this.
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It has the right size roller, now I just gotta get it out for use. So the following ensued.
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Resulting in...
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Of course the M6 bolt didn't quite fit so I had to drill it out a smidge to make it work. Once this was done, I took a day of rest. 6 Year old decided to share here stomach virus with me...not fun.

Today, I feel better, some minor stomach cramping but nothing I can't deal with. Time to install my new roller and set up the cooling flaps. But before I started that, I tested the bellows I got a while back. YEP, it works!

So off to the tiny space the Germans consider a garage, move the Beemer out, flip up the motor onto a thick rubber pad and lets get to work. When it was all said and done I was left with the following.
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So we're making progress. I'm heading off to ATU to see if I can find a paint pen to better mark TDC and then hopefully get the motor, transmission and all that is the FUPP (Army term for Full Up Power Pack, refers to M1 engines and transmission assemblies) assembled and ready for installation into the car.

I have to finish cleaning one of the carbs and will need to install new hinges for the motor deck lid as well as install the oil catcher but should be ready for the motor to go in by next weekend. Need to do as much as possible as I start traveling again towards the end of April and will be gone through most of May. Goal now is to have it operational and re-registered by the end of June. We'll see what happens!

Well, the new clutch disc came in this past week and worked perfectly. Clearly, I managed to screw up the old clutch disc which is why she wasn't cooperating.

So, progress was made today and the motor and tranny are mated.
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I need to put on the tin and she'll be ready for installation. In the mean time, I started tackling the engine lid bracket problem. The drivers side bracket was cracked at the bend and the passenger bracket was clearly an 'add on.' So I started to remove both.

Before:
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After...not quite done yet:
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As one can see, a bit of some metal work is going to be in order. Anyone got any tricks on this one before I continue? I miss my tools, I could have easily cut out the bad patch if I had just had all my tools brought over.

Guess I'll go and see if I can find someone with a 220 dremel so I can cut out the rest of the driver's side bracket. Then I'll need to do some patching and welding before I can get the new brackets in. Nothing is ever easy with this car!

Damn, Stephen! You are a heck of a trooper!! I just read the whole thread, what a journey. I hope you get it back together and get to finally enjoy it!

Thanks for your service

OK, got a lot of work done this past 4th of July. Spent it in the garage working on the teener...I can see the finish line!

So, got the other bracket cut out and treated both with a rust preventer to stop any flash rust.
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Next I went to work on assembling the tin and getting things put back together.
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She's pretty much ready to go; I will need to get the brackets for the engine lid put in first though before I reinstall the motor. Gonna go talk to the body shop down the street tomorrow to see how much the Germans will charge me to do the work. Hopefully I don't have to put a lien on the new car to get this done

Speaking of which...new car, picked it up today; 2013 Volvo XC70. We transer our 2005 Toyota Sienna to its new owner tomorrow.
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So, I have looked at some threads but would like some recommendations on what type of oil to use. Mind you, I can't get the special stuff that Jake R has available as it won't ship here so looking for what is the best oil weight to use and brand. I'm a bit limited on what I can get here, recommendations?

So, the body shop down the street will be coming by to pick up the car and put in the new engine lid brackets today.

Had to roll her out of the garage in preparation of the pick up. I also got the carbs put back on this past weekend as well. I need to run the fuel lines to the carbs and get them ready then need to re-route and attach the wiring harness to there respective connections. I always forget what goes where, I guess this is the difference between a shade tree mechanic and a professional. I'll just have to do some reading and research to make sure I put everything back where they belong.

It will take some time but that is not an issue as I'll be in Africa again on Thursday and won't be back for about a week and a half. I am hoping the work is done when I get back so I can finish up a few other things and put the motor back in after I get back. I would like to get everything re-installed before my motorcycle trip in August as she'll need to get re-registered by September.

After searching I found the Jake Raby thread on oil. Well, I can't get Brad Penn oil here so I called Royal purple and talked to one of their technicians who recommended using their Maxcycle 20/50 oil. Anyone have any experience with Royal Purple oils? My choices here in Deutschland are a bit limited so I'm looking for options. They also thought I could use their XPR 20/50 but thought it might be a bit of overkill.

OK, I've been a bit busy between traveling for work and working on two major exercises that I am running logistics for. Add on the fact that my eldest daughter came over from Italy last week and I just haven't had time to work on the teener.

Well, the eldest went back to Italy and the wife is off to meet her in Paris this week leaving me with the newly minted 7 year old, she had her birthday on the 8th of this month.

The neighbor has invited her for a sleep over so she'll be over there all day which means...I GET TO WORK ON THE CAR THIS WEEKEND!!

She came back from the body shop and they did a good job of re-welding and mounting the engine lid. My NCO who is a mechanic may come over to help but I think it is only so I give him free beer No matter, I told him he can't have beer until AFTER we get the motor in and hooked up. With any luck, I'll have her running by Sunday, hmm, where have I heard that before...

I'll post some pictures of the newly mounted lid tomorrow along with, hopefully, a remounted motor. Wish me luck!

OK, the plan didn't quite go as I wanted it to as the neighbor went shopping with Rianna's buddy so I had to find ways to keep the munchkin entertained while I worked on the car.

I did get pics of the work on the new mounting brackets for the lid.
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So, after making sure I had all the necessary bolts, brackets, nuts, etc. I started the process of getting the motor in the car. First order of business, pull out the bikes, back out the car and center it in my tiny German garage. Because I share a driveway, I can't just pull her out and work on her in the driveway.
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Ready to start.

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OK, were ready to go!

During the process of jacking the car up I had Rianna come out about every 15 minutes, 'I'm bored! I have no one to play with!' OK, we can fix that...
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OOPS! Pulled the bolt out and lost my balance!

I only let her unscrew and pull out two bolts on each wheel, she wanted to do all of them but I explained that the tire would fall on her so she was happy to do the two bolts on each tire instead. Since I was also waiting for some of the brackets to dry before I could proceed, I decided to cut the grass as it sorely needed it. Guess who wanted to help again...
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I bet she won't want to do this when she is a teenager!

I probably would have gotten all the grass done a lot quicker had I not had her 'helping.' Oh well, it kept her busy until lunch. Thankfully she started on her Lego Friends kit after lunch so stayed self entertained the rest of the afternoon. At least most of the time. She'd come out every now and again to get me to help her with her little project.

By around 1800 I got the motor in and the axles connected to the gearbox. I still need to run the fuel electrical and oil collection lines. I don't know how much I will get done tomorrow since you aren't allowed to do anything on Sundays in Germany but I will do what I can. In the mean time, here are the remaining pics for the day.
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I REALLY NEED A BIGGER WORK AREA!!

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We'll see how much I get done tomorrow; gotta help Rianna with her homework and clean and oil the chain on the BMW. Hopefully I can tackle most of the electrical and fuel lines tomorrow.

Well now, here I sit in the lovely Atlanta airport. I'm waiting for my connecting flight to Fayetteville, NC. Thankfully, I was able to get quite a bit done on the car yesterday. I got the shift linkage hooked up, clutch cable hooked up, heat exchangers in place and the exhaust is ready to be put on. I had hoped to get more done but I had to clean up the heat exchangers before I could put them in and the previous weekend's snow didn't help.

I'll be in NC for about two weeks, a week at a planning conference and then a week on a track of sorts for high threat personnel tactical training. I get to spend the week doing silly shit in a car and learning to shoot out of them while moving. Should be fun!

Hopefully the weather will cooperate when I get back as the finish line isn't far away to getting her on the road and I have a feeling I'll be needing her this winter. So, what do I have left?

1. finish exhaust install
2. hook up heater box cables to the heat exchangers
3. hook up electrical wiring (my biggest weakness)
4. hook up fuel lines
5. hook up oil/vapor lines for carbs
6. adjust clutch and fuel pedal play
7. time the motor

Basically ankle biters. My biggest problem will be remembering where the damn wires go, as stated above, I suck at electrical wiring for the car. A house I can do, cars tend to befuddle me. I need to take a class on electrics.

I'm hoping that I get some time when I get back as I won't be back for long; I have to head to Africa again right after Turkey Day. I didn't get any pics this time, I'll get some after I get her back up and running.

So relaxing on Christmas day for me was working on the teener. I got the throttle cable hooked up, adjusted the gearshift rod and clutch pedal play. Then finished the heat exchanger hook up, partially, before I called it quits. I have to finish the heat exchanger cable hook up before that is done. I'm getting ready to tackle more this weekend but had a question on setting up the breather and no, I am not running this on the track.

I have the CB performance box which will do for now and have looked at several threads. My question is should the box drain back into the heads or into the carbs?

I saw several pictures of different hook ups, some complex some very simple but I thought the whole point of the breather was to catch the oil then let it drain back into the motor. If she drains into the carbs, doesn't that kinda gum them up a bit?

Just looking for some advice before I tackle this aspect of the rebuild, any info people can provide will be greatly appreciated.

there should be 4 ports.
one from each head. these are 'in'
one drainback to the case - this is kind of an in/out, as it relieves crankcase pressure in operation and provides a return path for collected oil, condensed from the mist.
one _vent_ to the air cleaner, to burn the partially oxidized blowby and some of the oil vapor. Some simply vent this to the atmosphere. I ran mine to the air cleaner, the way carbureted Porsche engines always were from the factory. With - I should note - a flame arrestor, because having an intake backfire propagate into the possibly combustible crankcase vapor is definitely A Bad Thing.