It's a switch - it does not matter.
On the high beams - if the low beams do not shut off when the highs are on, it's almost certainly the relay. The blue indicator comes from the relay, so you know the signal is getting from the column switch to the relay.

A common problem with the back-up lights is that the pin that activates the switch wears and winds up too short to activate it. I have heard of people making new pins out of appropriate-sized drill bits...

--DD

Thanks Dave, don't suppose you know how long the pin is supposed to be do you?

Dangit! I had gotten everything put together for the caliper and was trying to get the spring for the e-brake in when I noticed that the piston was no longer pushing forward when the lever was actuated. It was working before I put on the retaining ring what the hell!

OK, back out the plug, stick a 4mm allen head in there, turn...nothing. I recall Eric, in his video, mentioning that sometimes they get stuck so when you pull in the piston, back it out a bit. I did that, then adjusted it to get the retaining clip on...looks like I didn't back it out again. So now what? Eric stated that when this happens you need to use a high speed air wrench to get it out. I pulled the retaining ring and dust cover off of it and can shoot over to the auto hobby shop tomorrow but, just want to make sure what it is I need to do.

NEVERMIND! I get frustrated so post; then, after I post, I think of an idea, try it and, it usually works.

Dowsed it with penetrating oil, let it soak for a bit, turn her over and whack the backside with a hammer a couple of times to loosen it up. Put the adjusting gear in and turn...wella!

Pulled the piston all the way out and cleaned everything up again. Will re-assemble tomorrow and make sure I don't make the same mistake. If I had any sense, I would have sold this car a year after I got it! Well, no one said I had much sense. Besides, I do like a challenge

Just ignore the short Chinese guy pretending to be a mechanic...nothing to see...move along...

OK, caliper is back together and installed. I evidently didn't do a good job of stopping brake fluid from leaking after I pulled the caliper. Bit of a mess to clean up before I got everything put back together.

Needless to say, I need to add fluid tomorrow and bleed the brakes. After that, I'll do the final adjustments and set clearance between the pad and rotor. Haynes says .008 inches, does that sound correct? After that I'll start checking and adjusting the hand brake. Hopefully all goes well tomorrow and I can then tackle the electrical issue with the lights.

I use 0.004", I think the 0.008" is too loose. At least, for my taste.

--DD

This is a very impressive thread!

YOu have handled adversity like a champ and still fighting toward that goal...

I am impressed!!!

Every time Stephen posts I can't wait to see how he handles issue's. I feel safe knowing the military is protecting our homefront with guys like Stepehen.
Tom

Thanks Dave, I'll try that. I had originally adjusted to .008 before I called it quits and adjusted the handbrake cable as well. The pistons are working but not holding solid as you can still force the tire to spin by hand.

I was thinking that a lack of fluid in the system may be the issue so I will tackle that first then re-adjust. I'll need to shoot down to Polo-Motorrad and grab a vacuum bleeder. I have one but, as is the story of my existence in Germany, it's in storage.

I figure I can always use a spare I find in interesting that I can get more tools from the motorcycle store than the crappy version of NAPA called ATU here in Germany. With any luck, I'll resolve all issues with the car today and then try to get it re-inspected on Monday.

OK, first issue resolved. Brakes bled and hand brake adjusted to .004 inch clearance per DDs recommendation. Good to go!

Now on to electrical. Three questions.

1. pin length for the reverse light indicator switch, what should it be? The switch is working the pin isn't long enough. PO just stuck in a short 'roll' pin.

2. Parking lights. What color wire goes to the male connector in this picture? Is it the grey wire in the picture below?
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3. Final question, low beam and high beam. Which switch triggers the high beam? Is it part of the main switch, i.e. you pull it out once it is low beam, you pull it out again and it is high beam. Or is it the switch next to it that lights up green when you pull it out?

The first position gives me headlamps but they are really low, the second position gives me very bright lamps. Just making sure that I am not a dumbass and that their was never an issue other than my old ass forgetting what made the high beams come on.

2. Parking Lamps


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http://bowlsby.net/914/Classic/TechNotebook.htm

3. Headlights.... You pull the main switch once to get your running lights. You pull it all the way out to get low beams. You pull the turn signal stalk to get high beams.

Thanks Doug, that answers 2 of the 3 questions! I forgot about Jeff's site, and I have it bookmarked.

I'll work the parking light issue while I wait for some input on the reverse switch pin length answer.

I just checked a switch I have and the pin was 28mm. You'll probably have to fine tune yours to fit.

Thanks, now to find me a sacrificial drill bit! I got a bunch just gotta choose one.

OK, reverse lights fixed! Cut a drill bit back end to 30mm, too long, cut it to 28mm, Doug's measurement, BINGO! So the three issues that failed the car were:
1. Right rear brake not holding with E-Brake engaged. FIXED
2. No high lights. FIXED (cause I'm a dumbass )
3. Reverse lights not coming on. FIXED

They didn't fail me for no parking lamps but I'll work on fixing that tomorrow. I plan on trying to get her inspected again on Monday, just in time for the snow! At least she's still got winter tires on her.

I measured the pin that was in the transmission for the reverse switch...18mm HALF of the length it is supposed to be!

So the last item is the parking lamps which should not be an issue since it is fairly evident they are just missing the connection from the wire to the lamp assembly. Heater motor doesn't seem to be working but that is a minor issue, I can drive with a big jacket on!

Good work!

A great many thanks on your input.

FINISHED! For now at least.

The PO had left the connectors for the parking lights intact however, he had taped them off. The wires were too short to fit through the boot to the assembly so I cut and spliced a longer length of wire on her and put on new connectors. Wella! We have parking lights!

They didn't fail me for them last time but if I get a different inspector, they might. I think I am safe though as I believe the only thing they will re-check is the three things they failed me on. High beams, Reverse lights and parking brake.

I did re-key the driver's side lock so she opens with the key, talk about tedious. I still have to do the passenger door but that is low priority. If she passes tomorrow I'll be a happy camper especially since there is supposed to be snow all this week. We'll see how things go tomorrow.

Christoph is supposed to email me when the other rebuild kit comes in; I have kits for the front as well but will wait till I get back stateside to rebuild those as I'll have ALL my tools and equipment once I get back. I'll run her like she is until I get the MG put back together. Then, depending on how long it takes me, I'll tear the teener all the way down to nothing. A lot depends on whether I am getting ready for my final move or not. I have a three year commitment at the next job, actually only one year but I plan on running it out until at least October 2016. That will put me at my 30 year mark for active duty retirement. I'll post on how things went tomorrow, wish me luck!

Houston...we have lift off!

She was covered in snow this morning but started up fitfully as was expected. Once warm it was off to Panzer Kaserne to get the inspection. Hit a major jam on the Autobahn.. Only problem is when you go slow...the windshield fogs up! Definitely need to fix the blower motor but I can ride with the windows down, just gotta keep them up enough so the snow doesn't get me!

When it was my turn I went out and warmed up the car while the inspector had a smoke break. He asked about he car year and we talked a bit about it then he took my paperwork and did his checks. I stood outside watching and holding my breath as the back wheels went on the spinner and he engaged the parking brake.

Up to the front of the inspection garage on the left there is a large dual analog gauge that measures braking force...Right side locked! Gauge displayed 150 on the left and 200! on the right! WOOHOO! That was my biggest concern and that went off without a hitch. I'll rebuild the left rear brake when the kit comes in but she's good for now.

The RPMs are still a bit high but I think it is based on the carb linkage. I think I need to adjust both sides a bit to elongate it when the throttle is realeased to fully close both butterflys. I think the linkage is not fully returning to proper idle position. I'll tackle that this weekend. In the meantime, I'm just gonna break her in and drive her around this week in the lovely snow here in Germany.

I swear ta god if I actually find Murphy and his gremlin little ass I am going to beat the holy hell out of him!

Got home, closed the door, turned the key to lock it and.....ya know that sound of a bolt dropping into the engine compartment? Shit.

The 10mm nut on the door handle securing it to the door came off and fell between the door and body. Well crap. OK, unlock it and go find it...OK, Unlock it and go find it...OK, UNFUCKING LOCK IT AND GO FIND IT!!! I can't unlock the door so, I can't open it. Calm down, walk to the house, grab some tools, wife comes home, she wants to yap...I am not really in my I wanna listen to her mode.

Go back out to the car and, work on keeping the door handle assembly stationary while I turn the key. After about minute I manage to get her unlocked. Get in and drive it to the house. I have to park on the street if I want to use the car.

Pull the assembly off and well, it wasn't just the nut.
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OK, that sucks. No problem, drill out the hole all the way through, get an M5 bolt and nut, check the length, now re-assemble.

This works; it ain't pretty but it works.
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Other than that, not a bad day.

Congrats on the inspection passing.

OK, after a week in the Alps learning to snowboard, did a header on the last day! No broken bones but a good sprained right wrist and very well bruised chest from the left clavicle up that hurts like hell! Now, I'm ready to tackle some final adjustments and rebuild the left rear caliper. Question, I checked the oil right before I left and it was pretty low. After a week of driving I was quite surprised how low the oil was. No leaks, any thoughts?

So, I took the time to work on adjusting the carburetor linkage this afternoon as I believe that this was part of the high idle problem. Bingo! No more high idle.

I adjusted the idle to the recommended 900 rpm then shut her off and used the PP template to find 27 Deg BTDC. I then enlisted the wife's help to check timing. She got her as close to 3200 RPM as possible and kept it as steady as she could and I adjusted the timing to 27 BTDC then locked down the dizzy. I read quite a few threads on the optimal timing for a carbed motor and also looked at the PP article. I think I am between 27 and 30 at 3200 with her running at about 6 BTDC at idle.

Took her out for a spin on the autobahn, much better! No more backfire at 60 or 80 mph and very smooth acceleration from zero to 60. I think I still need to adjust the shift linkage a bit as 1st is being a bit difficult but I can work that later.

I am having a bit of a challenge balancing the carbs though. I have a synch meter but just can't quite get them to synch up. I am betting I don't have both sides of the carb linkage equally set, I'll tackle that later and measure each linkage to make sure they are sitting at the same length between carb and linkage rod.

I picked up the left rear caliper rebuild kit this morning and had Christoph order me a set of rubber side seals for the targa top. They should be in tomorrow. I just have to focus now on cleaning the car up in preparation for shipment. I'll work that this week after I catch up to things at work. Need to do as much as I can this week as I fly to Africa again on Saturday and will be there for 2 weeks so my time is limited. I currently have the car scheduled to be dropped off for shipment on 20 March. I just have to clean every little speck of dirt I can find in the cab out. I'll tackle the left rear brake rebuild after I get back from my trip.

Not sure about this, but don't jump to any conclusions yet.

Get the oil to the line (baseline) and keep checking it after each run for changes (only after the car sits for a minute).
Report back after a few runs to see what has changed. Newly rebuilt motors tend to burn more oil until the rings seat, but not sure how many km you've run since the rebuild.

To sync them, consider removing both drop links from the carbs.
that is the linkage that connects the cross bar arms to the carbs.

With that off, then sync the carbs.
If they are not in sync, consider adjusting your valves again.
Then use the small lower air screw at the bottom side of each venturi (bottom of the carbs, screw with jam nut on it)
This allows you to sync the carbs to each other.
each carb should match front and rear.

Once this is complete, put the linkage back in place and sync each carb to the other carb.

You sometimes need to start at the beginning to gets carbs right.

The motor is an air pump.
All four cylinders, at idle, warm, should pump the same amount of air.
If the carbs are setup properly, at idle, with no linkage, you should be able to measure the same airflow through each carb.

You need that to work first.
Get the car warm with the linkage in place.
Let it idle.
then remove BOTH drop links...they cause friction in some cases.
Then measure the airflow.

If you find a large variation at idle, with no linkage attached...you may have an air leak you need to find.
This could be manifold leak, head to cylinder leak, or a poorly adjusted valve.
All matter.

The drop links on each side will end up different lengths just based upon geometry...and that is fine.
You need idle to be perfect.

From there, the cross bar linkage is a compromise that will never be perfect across the whole range of motion..
The best setup I have seen to date (I have tried most of them) is the cable system that Chris Foley manufactures and sells.
It is super accurate, and its simple to adjust.




rich

Rich,
Great info and write up. I will give that a shot when I return from my trip unless I have time before I go, thanks a lot.

I'm baaaaaaaaaaack!

After two weeks in Africa I got back this past Saturday and it was relatively warm for one day then...BRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR!!!

I got a nice tan in Malawi, not so much back here in lovely Germany where it is currently 19 friggin degrees! In March!! At least the damn snow finally went away after dumping about an inch on us yesterday. I want to go back to Africa where it is warm!!!

OK, enough bitchin. I didn't get anything done this week other than pick up new targa top seals from Christoph yesterday, I've been neck deep in a final planning conference all week and the Frau has been stateside lining up housing and schools for our move. Looks like we'll be living in the Green Briar area of Chesapeake and moving into the new house sometime mid-June. In the meantime, I've been a single parent so its been a bit hectic.

Today I will start the process of tearing the car apart and cleaning every last bit of dirt I can find from the interior and the trunks. I'll then start on replacing the targa seals and tackle the carb balancing last. I'm hoping it will warm up when I tackle the carbs since she doesn't like the cold much.

Since they are draconian on the Agriculture inspection, i'm seriously thinking about pulling the carpeting out in its entirety. No carpet, no dirt! We'll see, I will pull the seats first then make the assessment. I'll post pics after I get done today. Now if any of you have some nice warm weather you'd like to share with Germany, I'm all for it!

Well now, I got most of what needed done on Saturday with the exception of trying to synch the carbs. I underestimated the amount of work I needed to do to clean out all the dirt and get the carb ready for shipment. Here are the before and after pictures.
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As one can clearly see, a lot of work to be done! After working on it all day, I finally wound up with this.
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I bought a cheap set of rubber mats to keep it from getting dirty at Toom this morning.
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It's not a perfect fit but it will work.

I tackled the carb synch this morning and...failed miserably! Clearly there exists the other issues that Rich alluded too but, I don't have the time to fix it properly. For now, she runs. Well enough to get her on the boat and off the boat. I'll run her to the auto hobby shop tomorrow afternoon to finalize the cleaning then, with luck, I will drop it off on Wednesday for shipment to Norfolk.

Once I get to Norfolk, I'll tackle the carb issue but not until then. I'll post my success or failure after Wednesday and then this thread will go dormant for a couple of months until I can work on her again once I get stateside.

I did find a mess of wires that went absolutely nowhere once I pulled the carpet up. I think they were originally for the speakers and radio. I'm so looking forward to tearing this down to the bare metal and starting from scratch. Then I'll know exactly what goes where and why as opposed to the disaster that it currently is.

Well, it passed the ag inspection! I had to do some minor wipe downs to get at some dirt but other than that, she is sitting in the outbound lot waiting for a truck to take her to Bremerhaven. From there, she heads to Portsmouth, VA on a ship and will be in on or about 6 May 2013. I told the guy I won't be in Norfolk until June but, since it is due to my deployment to Africa, it is not a problem.

The right headlight did get some water in it from my washing at the self wash. Hopefully it dries out and works when it gets to VA. Otherwise, I'll be needing a new headlamp. For now, this thread is on hold until I get to VA and get settled. See y'all stateside soon!

Well, I'm now in Norfolk, Va. We got in on the 5th and I picked the car up on the 6th. The turn signals wouldn't work and the battery was deader than a door nail. So I jumped her at the distribution center and went straight to the nearest auto store, Pep Boys, and bought a new battery.

Made it back to the hotel and took the time today to see if I can sort out the problem with the lights. Well...COROSION! the entire inside of the turn signal socket and the bulb base were green. I cleaned it off best I could but it wasn't really enough so I will have to replace that part of the assembly but, I don't think anyone makes just that part anymore. I put in an an inquiry on a car being parted out on the forum to see if the turn signal assemblies are in good condition and still available.

Now the other problem is that the there is a short somewhere and the left light keeps popping up and down when the light knob is pushed in. Anyone have this issue before?

Then I tried to start the car, it is being difficult. No problem, I'll try again tomorrow. Basically, she didn't like the trip overseas on a boat. Guess I got my work cut out for me. Unfortunately, I don't have a garage until 20 June. Say la vie.

Welcome back! I'm sure you have alot of other things going on, but at least you've got some summer to sort things out and enjoy the car.

I think the summer is gonna be consumed with getting settled. At least I will have a decent garage to work on the car in.

OK, so I went to Advanced Auto and grabbed a can of starter fluid to see if I could get her cranked over today. Nope

She turns but she just isn't catching. Unfortunately, I'm operating out of a hotel so don't have any tools or room to really trouble shoot things. The issue is that I won't have a car to get back and forth to work with this week so the wife will have to drop me off unless I can find someone that I can car pool in with. I'll work that angle today.

She started fine the day I picked her up, a bit rough, but started. She sat outside during a rather rough rain storm, any thoughts that water could have gotten in somewhere?

Not a big deal, I'll move her to the new house in the garage and work on her after I get my tools. Shit happens, i'm not stressing a deadline or inspection as I was in Germany. If my temp tags from Germany expire before I get her up and running that is fine, I'll register her when she is operational. Just another speed bump enroute to the final destination, annoying but not mission stopping.

OK, I got a chance to work on the car Monday then tackled it again yesterday. Long story short, I got a short somewhere in the wiring and I have no spark.

Tested the #1 plug first by pulling the plug and grounding it, no spark. I then used an inline spark tester with the plug back in the car, no light. Next used the inline tester to check the coil wire grounding it best I can, I got a light which indicates the coil is OK.

I also check the plug wire to make sure that I didn't have a break in the wire. I didn't have a specific wire tester so I did the standard ohms check with the multi-meter. Wire checked out OK.

Working backwards this would imply that the dizzy cap is bad or the rotor. Joy.

I also discovered, after I pulled the key, that the left rear tail light was on and would not shut off. When the light switch was pulled, only the right side lamp came up. Dang. Needless to say I now know why my battery got drained but now I have the joy of troubleshooting the electrical system WHICH I AM NOT VERY GOOD AT!!

Any advice from the collective before I head down this road??

Blinker left engaged becomes a parking light on forever.
See if that was it.

Check for 12vdc at the coil with the key in the run position...may be a fuse got knocked out or may be the ignition switch is broken from all the kind people that have touched your car.

Rich

be sure the center contact inside the cap is not worn down. it's spring loaded and when it's worn to it's limit it works sometimes, sometimes not. ask me how I know. RRC 2011

I'll do the checks this Sunday; I'm off to the hunt club to do some maintenance work on stands, etc. I'm quite excited that I get to hunt again!!

I should have the garage set up by the end of Sunday to put the the other car into the garage which will give me more room to work on the Porsche. Thanks for the input

The madness has taken hold...

Soooo, i've been doing a lot of research and was torn between trying to find a Porsche 6 Cyl or converting to a Subi motor. I looked around for motors, both Porsche and Subaru, and found three in the VA Beach area that I can pull from junked cars. I found 0, nada, null, kein motor, for the Porsche in a salvage yard. Yes, I know I can get them on Ebay and the like but they want an arm and a leg.

So, I believe I will go with the Subaru conversion. Now, to make sure I pull everything I need, I would like some feedback. It is my understanding that when I pull the motor, I must also pull the ECU and wiring harness to replace what I currently have. Is this a correct understanding of what is required?

SVX's are cheap. $400-2500 for a running car. There are always plenty around.

That depends on what you use. If you go Suby you can go OEM or AM ECU. Either way you will retain some of the OG wiring. I'm using the Suby engine harness (cut 'n spliced) and Suby ECU in combination with the OG wiring. If you have room I'd suggest buying an entire donor car that runs. You can shop for several Suby's @ http://www.copart.com/c2/copart_salvage_au...car_finder.html. Find one with side or rear end damage. Avoid the head ons.

The pictures of the ones in VA beach look like they are primarily side or rear damage vehicles. I need to go down to their yard and have a look at them to make an initial assessment. Soooooo, what are partially converted 2.0 Type IV motors going for nowadays??? Figure I might as well sell my motor to partially finance the conversion.

Yes SVXs are cheap, yet remember they are the only ones to use the EG33 motor, so after market support is not there as it is for the -4s. that being said, they are a sweet motor to have backed by a WRX 5MT. SVXs only came in autos over here. If your lucky you can find one that a person has swapped a 5MT into out of WRX already.

Get engine, all peripherals, harness, engine to ECU harness, ECU. If its a WRX grab the 5MT out of it also. Get the CVs and axles, anything else you think you might need. If you can get a whole clip that is always nice. I guess if you going 2.5 you can also grab the tranny, depending on the model and year they can have a very low final drive, and a short 5th gear.

My self, I looked in Craigslist, got a SVX, picked up a 5MT out of KY, and then grabbed another EG33 out of another yard. All told I have a 2K in this setup with a running SVX, that is currently my daily. Only issue is I really like the SVX, it is a fine driver. Even at the 1000 price point, it is still plenty fun every day. I am looking at finding another 5MT to put in the SVX.

OK, so the VA Beach pick and pull yard has two Subaru's.

1997 Legacy wagon with a 2.5L H4 motor
1992 Legacy sedan with a 2.2L H4 motor

Cost for motor and all accessories roughly $200-250.

I'm leaning towards the 2.5L motor, thoughts from the collective?

The 2.5s evidently love to blow head gaskets... And a huge PITA if/when they do.

--DD

hmm, I'll have to look that bit of info up before making a decision, thanks Dave.

OK, while I'm having these maddening thoughts...could I pull the entire power train, motor and tranny, from the legacy and convert the tranny to RWD?

I have been perusing many of the threads that talk about the conversion from an AWD to RWD tranny vice an adapter kit for the subi to 901 requirement. Since I have a tail shifter, I would think that the Subi conversion would shift better than my current set up.

Thoughts? Is this a bridge too far?

Dave, you remember when your type-4 dropped a valve seat. That was also a PITA was it not.

Point being not to give Dave to much crap for his issues, we have all had them, its part of owning mechanical devices. I would go 2.5L, easier to find parts as the 2.2s are getting a little older.

Answer is do it you will regret it latter if you don't.