AFAIK caliper is the english word for "Bremssattel"
"Bremsscheibe" would be break disk

If you have time and your car is ready we could meet somewhere half way between us. Maybe Tannheimertal, Sonthofen or something else in this area?

Good luck with your car and the TÜV inspection

Gustl

That makes sense.

Love your persistence! Hope you have many happy hours of

Jim

Congratulations! I am really jealous. I got my car up and running just in time to miss the whole summer. We will have to meet up and go for a drive when I get back. Unless it is snowing when I get back in October.

Well ladies and gentlemen, it's home. Christoph had to do some major work before it could be released and I am not sure I want to see the bill!

So, what else did he do? Let see.

- Replace the rotors and bolts on front wheels
- Replace the right front strut and shock
- Replace the right front brake caliper
- Replace the brake master cylinder
- Replace the brake proportioning valve
- under body welds and various places
- electrical work, did I mention the PO totally jacked up the wiring harness and electrical connections? Christoph said that they had a hard time because the wiring didn't match the diagram!
- Replaced all 5 wheels and rims, TUV wanted a more original rim for the historical cert so he gave me 4 new/used pegrini rims. Still got the old ones, gonna sell em on ebay as they will fit a VW beetle.

So what is left to do?
- Rear trailing arm bushings need to be replaced eventually. Anyone got a set of used ones I can send for rebuild?
- I seem to have a minor oil leak I think in the front seal, need to track it down.
- leak in targa top needs to be identified and fixed.

She runs OK, little rough when she is cold and I am pretty sure I will need to rebuild the tranny eventually but for now she runs and is registered. Now I just have to mortage a house to pay for the German labor costs! Will get a picture this weekend and post.

OK, I got a chance to check some things on the car today; had to put my wife on a plane yesterday to head to the states so didn't have the chance yesterday. The wife is heading to San Antonio to help my dad as my mom is in the hospital and he is having a tough time.

So, first thing, check on the oil leak. Well, looks like it is either leaking from several locations or dripping onto metal and then moving down the metal until it falls on the ground. I won't really get a better picture until I put her on the lift sometime this week or next weekend.

Seals on the targa top and around the window and rear area are just about dry rotted and shot. Will need to replace all the seals; should solve the leak that I got when it was raining on me. Not a big leak but significant enough to piss me off.

Lights need alignment with the body but the seals on the front hood also need replacement as it's harder than a rock!

I gave Christoph 4 quarts of oil but the dipstick is reading significantly low...WTF? Well, will just go and buy more oil and put some in. I am hoping this week will be nice so I can run her with the top off and work out some of the kinks.

In truth, I think the work has just begun.

OK, I now know why the cost of living is so expensive here, I just got the repair bill and this is after discounts.

Even after steadily bringing him money to the tune of 2300 Euro my final bill that I have left is still 7186 Euro or a little over $10k with the current exchange rate.

The wife is going to freak! We have the means to pay the bill but it will wipe out some money we have put aside. I may be putting this car on the German market for about 5k Euros as that will give me back at least $7k.

I hate to do it but I may not have a choice. The parts were not the issue, I wracked up close to 7700 Euros in labor alone! OUCH!!!

Anyone got a winning lottery ticket? Gonna go bang my head on a wall now, already sent an email to the wife and gave her some courses of action. She is in the states having to deal with my parents, I really didn't want to drop this on her.

oh man, I'm really sorry about this

I knew from my own experience that professional labor on the 914 is very expensive, but I didn't think that it would be so much in your case ...

I hope that you could keep the teener ...

good luck

Sent you a PM exploring the sale in Germany possibility.

Damn, This is a shame about the bill total and the need to dump the car.

My dad recently had his 1930 Model A Ford professionally restored (exterior) and they gave him an original quote of $6,000-$8,000.

Well, over the course of the resto, he paid them $11k in progress payments and they never mentioned that they estimate was significantly off.

Well, at the end of it, they hit him with a $27,000 bill for the work. That was well beyone what was expected and of course my dad didn't have enough money to pay it (he is retired) so he left them the car and went back to regroup.

In the end, he found the money and got the car, but I am a big fan of having the shop tell you when they reach certain money thresholds, just to make sure both can survive the final outcome.

Then again, as any restoration should be expected to be 3x the original time and dollar amounts, it wasn't that far off. Conventional wisdom is right.

So, sorry about your situation, good luck in the final outcome, and it would be a shame for you to sell the 914, especially after getting this far with it.

It wouldn't be so bad if the dollar was on par with the Euro but since the EU artificially inflates the Euro's value it makes the bill much larger.

So, I talked to household 6, for those of you that are former military you understand the call sign! We're gonna sell her or at least try.

I took her out this morning and washed her, she really is fun to drive! I still need to put her on the lift and figure out where the oil leak is coming from as the oil drips onto the exhaust and then burns and smokes.

Hopefully it is an easy fix, yeah right!

I did some checking on ebay.de, mobile.de and autoscout24.de and the average price for a 1.7 or 1.8 is about 5500 Euro and, the ones listed are not in very good shape. The couple of 2.0L ones listed went from 5k up to 15k Euro. I don't think the one for 5K was driveable.

So, here are some pictures of the car as it stands now; I will list some info on what has been done and what needs to be done then solicit some opinions on price.

EXTERNAL PICTURES








MOTOR




INTERIOR








Here is what work has been done.
-Motor converted to 2.0; heads are machined 1.7 heads - motor was balanced
-All the tin was blasted and powdercoated
-Brake master cylinder and proportioning valve replaced along with some of the brake lines
-brake pads replaced
-windshield wiper motor and arms replaced, works beautifully unlike when I got her in Italy!
-windsheild washer unit replace with electric unit
-wheel studs replaced and Pedrini wheels installed
-fuel sending unit pulled and completely cleaned - now works, didn't before.
-new exhaust system, converted back to original system with heat exchanger
-Engman fuse panel installed
-seat belts converted to 3 point system
-right front strut and brake caliper replaced
-new clutch pressure plate

What still needs to be done
-replace side mirrors, drivers side mirror just kinda droops.
-replace windshield trim plan on ordering it from member vendor
-targa top rubber needs replacement - may or may not do
-window seals need relacement - may or may not do
-trailing arm bushings need replacement.

After talking to Christoph he thinks he may have someone interested in buying the car and he recommended 9800Euro as the price. He said that it is very hard to find a 914 that both passes the TuV AND has the historical certification which this car has. Thoughts from the collective group?

Sorry to hear this. I got back from my deployment early due to some unforseen events. I was looking forward to getting my car out and getting some miles on it. You can definitely get top dollar for your car. Nice 914's are really expensive over here. I am sure some locals will jump at the chance. How hard was your car to get through TuV? I am going to work that soon so I can take the car anywhere in Germany.

Remember, you only need the historic inspection. Talk to your registration bubbas on exactly what you need, you don't need a complete TuV inspection.

Their are certain things that are allowable on a historic car to make it more driveable. I had a new steering wheel, electric washer system, Engman fuse box and three point seat belts. These changes enhance vehicle safety and drivability so are not a big deal.

You will run into trouble if you have a 5 lug set up and the original car was a 4 lug, they may also want you to have original rims (you can change them out after the inspection). Not sure what their thoughts are on the exhaust system but I had a stock system put back on the car. I think the big issue is that the car can't be modified so much that it loses its originality and now looks like a street rod versus a historicaly restored car.

If you want, I will ask Christoph if there are any RED flags that you need to avoid.

OK, so I put her on the lift today to find the oil leak. Well, I am pretty sure I have a slight main seal leak as a drop of oil accumulated on the bottom of the fan shroud. I am also getting a good amount from the pushrod tubes on the driver side once she has been moving and is warmed up. I didn't see a lot when she was running and up in the air but when I got home from a long drive you could see a good amount on the ground where the push tubes are located.

So, how easy is it to pull the tubes and change the seals without dropping the motor? Looks a little tight in there from where I was looking up. I know that it sounds sacrilegious but would using the Mittelmotor technique of just using high heat auto seal/calk in there do the trick? Looking for some suggestions because I don't think it will sell if she has a big oil leak problem. A small bit is fine but this isn't what I consider a small bit.

I also think I have an exhaust leak on the drivers side, I took a video and I'll try to figure out how to embed the video after I get back from cleaning my bike.

I did manage to fix the rear view mirror and side mirror thanks to a very informative write up on how to tighten up the side view mirror in the Lapawuli section. I also got the passenger side door handle working again but I don't think the key matches the lock because I can't lock the doors. I will see if there is a thread on this in the forum later.

Gustl has been very helpful in translating and making suggestions for the add to sell the car and I will post it to the 914freunde site later today. Will post some pictures and the video when I get back later.

Pushrod tubes: Pull the tubes halfway out of the head to replace the seals. Not hard at all. Do each one with the cylinder at TDC so the valve springs aren't pushing the rocker arms away from the head.

--DD

Dave,
So I assume that I have to do this from under the car thus, put her on the lift, engage the gear and spin the rear tire to hit TDC then go for it. I am assuming that I will have to remove the valve train or will I be able to pull the tubes out enough to not need to do this?

So, I took the time to replace all the O rings on the #1 and 2 cylinders today. When everyone says it is easy well, that is a matter of opinion. #3 and 4 side is bone dry, just the 1 and 2 cylinders that had oil leaking from what I could tell.

Since I wasn't sure which one, I replaced all the O rings. 4 hours later I had it started and idling up on the lift. I didn't see any oil form under the cylinder head as I did before and I let her idle for at least 10 minutes. I did see oil forming on the bottom front and rear seam of the crankcase though. So maybe I didn't seal the crankcase as well as I thought? Can I through on any type of sealant that over the seams that will keep her from leaking?

The oil is still hitting the exhaust when I stop and smoking and I have an exhaust leak in the number 1 cylinder. I will put her up on the lift again later and see what I can figure out.

It looks as if I'll be keeping the car, I had put it up for sale on 914freunde.de but haven't had any interest and truthfully, I don't think I can sell her as long as she has the oil leak problem. Unlike the PO, I have a hard time passing a problem off to someone else so will probably pull the ad.

What I really need is a weekend where I can drop the motor and check both seals to make sure they aren't leaking. I have two new seals that I got when Christoph also ordered some gaskets for me.

If anyone has some ideas on sealling the seams without cracking open the crankcase again I am all ears!

rear crankcase seam leaks ususally are the rear main oil seal leaking past the flywheel sometimes the sealing surface on the flywheel is scored creating a leak.
I was just in Stuttgart to see the Porsche Museum!

OK, your not making me happy here! At least I have a couple of new seals that are still good. I am definitely keeping the car so will have to pull it off the other site. I am working on setting up a 3 day that I can park the car in the autocraft lift bay and drop the motor, inspect and fix oil leaks, then put back in the car.

HEY CHRIS WANNA DO A 3 DAY IN STUTTGART? He, he, he...Gustl, how about you? Probably won't be until after Mid-September as I have an Ireland and UK trip planned in a couple of weeks.

So the new priorities on the car are as follows:
1. get windshield trim and fix leak
2. fix oil leak
3. start taking care of spots of rust that are bubbling the paint
4. replace rear trailing arms

Let the madness begin...again

OK, the new windshield is in and trim is on, shouldn't leak anymore. Took her out for a spin with my daughter and ran down the back way and towards Nurtingen before we turned around. I was checking to see if I was still having oil problems. Yep.

So, I got her back and looked under the car, drivers side of the engine mount had some oil drip off of it and the shift linkage had droplets of oil all along its length. I am thinking front main seal by the impeller? Anyone else have any thoughts?

Of course this means I will have to drop the motor to get to it. Not sure when I am going to find the time though. I may have to take a week of leave to get it done.

So, I was able to get a floor jack and some stands from the autocraft shop as a loaner; I was asked why I didn't just bring the car to the shop and do it and I pointed out that I would wind up tying up one of his bays for several days and didn't want to do that. "OK" he says and off he goes in search of jack stands while I go and find a floor jack.

I had hoped to start on Saturday or Sunday but didn't get the chance until this afternoon. I got everything disconnected using the tutorial on the PP tech page. Very well written and easy to follow, you just have to make modifications based on the year of your car and some other things like carbs vs FI and heat exchangers. I thought it would be more complicated but once I began the process I found it very simple. At least until it was time to disconnect the CV joints.

Checked my tools, I don't have the needed 8mm 12pt hex head CV bolt removal tool. OK, shoot off to Toom (think German style home depot) which is down the street. They have one but you have to buy an expensive, about $60, tool set to get the specific piece. Well, I don't need all the other crap and they don't have the particular item as a 12pt set either. So, I'm dead in the water until tomorrow. I will check at the autocraft shop to see if they have the tools I need and borrow it. I am hoping I can finish the motor drop tomorrow and start working on changing out the seals while the weather still holds here in Deutschland.

If the autocraft shop doesn't have the tool there are a couple of other possibilities in Boeblingen that I can check out. Wish me luck!

2 hours my ass! So I found a CV joint removal tool or 'triple' square socket driver at the autoshop. Came home got the CV bolts out fairly easily and separated the stub axles from the tranny. The harder part was being a contortionist to get the engine mount bolts out! The furniture cart wasn't quite in the right position so I will be replacing the cart but the motor is down and the rear on stands.

The axle stubs are preventing me from rolling the motor out the ass end but I will deal with that tomorrow. After two days and I would say about 6 hours of work I finally got the motor out. Now that I have done it I see how it could take only a couple of hours but when you're doing it for the first time, it takes a while.

Tomorrow's plan is to pull the motor out from under the car and start tearing down the front so I can replace the seal. Although I don't want to, I will have to separate the motor from the tranny to make sure the rear seal is OK as well. I have the seals, so I may as well replace them both and take care of all the oil leaks which I am pretty sure are from the seals. Will post some pictures tomorrow, hopefully.

OK, had to pull the carbs in order to get the axle stubs clear and pull her out. Before I go into what I found, first question; best way to marry the tranny back up with the motor? Some help please! When I did my MG motor and tranny I had the motor on a stand and the tranny on a crane so it was easy, not quite as easy this time around.

So, taking one thing at a time, I pulled the impeller and took a look at the seal. Dry as a bone. hmm, but there is oil all over the oil pump. Well, I took off the housing and after careful inspection came to the conclusion that the oil pump was the culprit on the front end. The body wasn't leaking where it mated to the crankcase but I evidently didn't do a good job sealing the cover to the oil pump. I got the cover off and resealed it and threw a bead of high heat seal around the pump body just in case.

Put that back together and then went to the rear seal. There was a pool of oil looking at me when I pulled the flywheel off. I don't think I seated the seal properly but, in the interest of making sure, I pulled it out, cleaned up the area and put in a new seal instead of trying to seat the old one. This time I made sure it was seated properly.

I also replaced the O-ring in the flywheel and threw on a new crush washer. This brings us to the mating of the motor with the tranny. I just quite couldn't' get it right, is there a trick? Thoughts? Here are some pictures of the motor and my tranny mating method, i.e. put the tranny on a floor jack and try to roll it to the motor.

HA HA! when I read the title of this thread I immediately thought of what tripped me up on my first 914 engine removal..... The F&%ed up bolts they used for the CV joints.

Since then ( college days many years ago ), I could have the engine out of my 914 in less than 2 hours by myself & a floorjack & two jackstands.


The good old days ;-)

Stu

You're using the same method I've used to attach the trans to the engine. I have found that I often will need to put the trans in gear, grab one output flange, and turn the other output flange to turn the input shaft. That's to get the splines on the shaft lined up with those on the clutch disk.

--DD

Thanks Dave, will try that, did you lube the input shaft up with a light coat of oil grease to help her slide in better?

I don't think I did, but I probably should have. On the splined area and on the part that rides in the pilot bearing.

--DD

Will go ahead and do that. I was looking up info and read through the tail end of the clutch adjustment and replacement how to on PP written by Wayne Dempsey. Based on what I read, the tranny was removed only and then re-installed with the motor still in the car. I am thinking this may be easier for me to do since I am one man team.

Anyone else have any thoughts on this? Would it be easier or harder to get the tranny married up with the motor already installed?

Well, necessity being the mother of invention, I went out to tackle the tranny and motor marry up again. Cleaned the input shaft then put a light coat of grease on it to lube the pilot bushing. Lined up the jack then slowly brought it together. Dang, not quite lined up; back out the jack turn the input shaft just a tick then line up and try again. This time they seem to be mating well but I can't get them to slide together.

Hmm, maybe if I take a clamp and clamp both sides then slowly turn the clamp I can bring them together slowly without having to shove anything! So off I go in search of a clamp...damn, their all in storage! Now what? Hmm, ya know that one bolt is pretty long...wonder if I can get it through the motor and tranny case and just tighten the bolt? Should do the same thing as using a clamp; brilliant!

So, I thread the bolt through but it is a bit long so I take a wrench and thread the bolt through the wrench and then the tranny to the motor...BINGO! Start to tighten and she begins to slowly move together. Stop and check alignment then grab both sides and try to slide them together knowing that it ain't gonna happen...Well hot damn! Slide together like a a well greased........Yeah, well leave it at that. So, I got the motor put back together and began the process of re-mounting the motor to the car. Here is where I have a question.

I got the car and motor lined up and the tranny mounts were easy but I don't think I have the engine mounts quite right. According to the PP diagram:
Click to view attachment

I should have only one number 15; well, I got two on there. One facing cupside down and the other was on there cupside up and covering the rubber mount. This has caused a problem with getting the dang bolt through the mount, base upper and washer as it doesn't provide me much room to thread the nut onto the bolt.

Any reason I should leave the second base lower on there? Based on the diagrams I only need one base lower and it fits cupside down with the notch pointing inward towards the motor. I am hoping I can get the car back on the road either tomorrow or Sunday as I have to take my bike in to get the front wheel re-balanced and an oil change so need trans!

Now, once I get the mount installed properly, 21ft lbs of torque? That is what Haynes is showing but I am not totally sure and it is a royal PITA to get in there to torque the damn nut. Any help from the peanut gallery would be appreciated.

Only one #15 per side. It goes between the mount and the bar; the notch goes over the bar. Leave the second one out.

--DD

That's what I thought. Well, after meeting up with Johannes this afternoon I got the engine mounts installed properly, big difference. Tomorrow I am hoping to finish connecting everything up and getting on the road. Wish me luck.

Well, today didn't quite go as planned, I got the right side CV bolts back in but had to stop to go find the torque settings as I couldn't find them in my books. I may have been looking in the wrong place. Found them on the PP site though. So, I decided to tackle the exhaust bolt; cleaned up the bolt and the hole, slapped some loctite on it then reinstalled the bolt. About this time I start getting the chills. I've been fighting a virus all week.

Today is also supposed to be my daughters 4th birthday party; well, I went downhill fast and by the time my wife came home from getting some things for the party I was running a high fever and had about 5 blankets piled on me. Needless to say I did not make it to the party and my poor wife had to set everything up herself. It is not 1700 my time here in Deutschland and I have finally broken my fever and all I have left is a sore throat and headache. Being stupid, I am debating going back out to work on the car some more.

Worst part is I have night shift starting tomorrow, Volkfest (local version of Octoberfest) on Thursday and then we ride to Prague on Friday. I don't have time to be sick! Done ranting now, I'm gonna go root around in the fridge and find something to eat. Then I think I will head out to the garage...No one said I was smart.

IT'S ALIVE!!!! Well, kinda, for the most part. Got everything put together with the exception of the motor lid. Started her up, damn that sucker is running rough! I know that I preset the carbs before installation last time and that the Boxer guys have no clue what to do with them so that isn't the problem.

I am pretty sure I need to set the idle and then balance both carbs but I need to get her up and running to operating temps first. So, the plan tomorrow is to put on the lid, start her up and go for a drive. Good way to check that I have no oil leaks as well. During the time I had her running I didn't see any oil developing anywhere so I think I finally got that fixed. The valves were adjusted prior to motor installation so I don't think this is a problem but, after I make some adjustments, we shall see.

I'll finish putting on the rear valance and motor lid tomorrow then after balancing the carbs we shall see how she does.

Quick question, still have a small exhaust leak just off the #1 cylinder I believe. This has been a problem, anyone got any suggestions on fixing this problem? The other side is fine and the #2 has no leaks just the one cylinder.a

So, I've evidently I have bronchitis, great. Needless to say they tell me to go home and stay home. I can do that. Now, being the stubborn SOB and since I receive a lot of help getting the valves done and the car is running....time to synch the carbs!

First off, my damn archaic SU Carbs are easier to synch than these Delortos; not because they are complicated but because it is awkward to get to the fast idle screw.

So the car is running, so far no oil, I'm screwing around with the damn carbs, kinda smokey in here must be that damn exhaust leak. Well, the passenger side carb is being a pain cause the screw is on the inside and I have to lean over the engine bay and do the contortionist thing to get to the screw. Well, need to take a break for a minute, lets see if I got any oil leaks....can you see where this is going??

HOLY SHIT! I got me a pool and it's under the number two cylinder! GODDAMNIT!!!

So, I turn off the car, jack it up, clean up the pool of oil and crawl under there with a flashlight. Definitely not from the push rod tubes, those are good, nothing pooling on the bottom of the impeller fan housing, nothing on the rear main (at least that is fixed). What the hell? There are droplets on the engine mount and the tin right below the number 2 cylinder. Hmm, is it possible that their is a leak between the head and the #2 cylinder?

Well, looks like I'll be dropping the motor...again. So any suggestions on what I should be looking for? I can see the seam between the crankcase and the cylinders but I don't see any oil there. I am pretty sure it is from the cylinder and head; I didn't 'lap' the head but used a gasket.

I will take a break tomorrow, doctors orders, then look at dropping the motor on Saturday. If anyone has any words of wisdom it would be appreciated. Just when I think I finally got things licked. I guess it's a good thing i'm a stubborn asshole, otherwise this car would have been at the bottom of a lake somewhere.

OK, so today was a rather dismal day in Germany, cold, wet and friggin hail! Needless to say, I loaded up the Pedrinis, Centerlines and winter tires and made a run for post. I dropped the wife and wee one off at an indoor playground called Sensapolis then did what I needed to do with the tires.

After returning home I put the new rubber on the car and decided to see if I could pinpoint the oil leak. I removed the connecting pipe that goes up into the engine tin and the heating air supply or warm air guides as some call them so I could better see where the oil was coming from.

Re-connect the carb linkage on the driver side so I can get her started and crank her up. Once she was warm and idling at about 1500 rpm I looked under the car. No oil. OK, lets finish what I was doing the other day and start synchronizing the carbs.

What I forgot to mention is that Boxter had run the vacuum lines from the carbs into a PVC valve and also run another tube off the oil filler assembly into a perforated plastic oil container. I had connected the lines to two tubes that were sticking out of the left side of the car as I assumed that this is where they went. Well, I disconnected the tubes and set it back up the way Boxter had it done.

So, she's running, I disconnect the driver's side carb linkage and begin synchronizing the carbs checking under the car every now and again. Finally, after about 20 minutes I start to see some oil form on the cooling fins of the #2 cylinder. I get a spit every now and again but nothing like the other day.

Check the pushrod tubes, dry, check the valve cover gasket, dry, check near the impeller, dry. #3 & 4 are also good to go. #1 cylinder fins show no oil forming on them. So my thoughts are,
1) the seal ring/gasket between the head and cylinder didn't seat right or I blew a that gasket
2) I don't have the head torqued down properly but I would think that this would affect both cylinders if this was the case
3) blowby created when I connected the tubes incorrectly from the carbs?

Either way, it is primarily a spitting leak and nothing major at this point so I will re-check torque in the morning and see what she does. I will also do some research on how the tubes are supposed to be hooked up. From the Delorto manual I am supposed to have the vacuum tube connected between the carbs. This would leave the, I assume overflow tube, from the oil filler assembly to connect somewhere else.

Once I recheck things and make sure they are set up properly I'll start her up again and see what happens. If she still leaks then I will order new seals for both cylinders, clean up the head, replace and reseal the head and cylinders. Will obviously have to recheck valve adjustment but at least I don't have to drop the motor. I need to double check to see if I already have the seals since I had acquired two seal sets; maybe i'll be lucky but that is usually not the case for me.

Unless anyone has any other suggestions this is the plan that I will proceed with. Eventually this car will be back on the road again permanently!

Is your pulley for the cooling flap cable torqued down? That hole goes straight into the case. Are you using any sealant between the cylinders and the case. I have Jake's video and he recommends using Kuril K2 between the cylinders and the case.

I sealed the case with the Curil K2; I have to check the pulley, I don't think I saw one for the cooling flap. In fact, I don't recall seeing a thermostat with cable that connects to the flap set up now that you mention it.

OK, after a slow start this morning, I watched Mongol instead of working on the car, good movie by the way, I headed out to tackle the teener again.

First, lets adjust the shift linkage. Boy what a PITA! Whoever designed the access panel and clamp assembly needs to be shot! Got it done but I am surprised I didn't throw out my back doing the different contortions to get to the bolt and nut on the clamp.

Next, pull the cylinder cover and check torque of nuts. Oh crap, I forgot, If I want to get some of the nuts I gotta take off the tin! Well, lets check the couple I can reach. Yup they were good so I am pretty sure head to cylinder torque is not the problem.

So, lets start her up and take her for a spin, so she's running, so far no oil. Get in, push in the clutch, put her in reverse.....GRIND GRIND GRIND! What the hell? How about 1st? GRIND GRIND GRIND! Well that's not good.

OK, I clearly need to adjust the clutch cable as I obviously didn't get it right when I reinstalled it. So after some checking here and there I found where I screwed up and made the adjustment. Lets try again, OH HONEY! "WHAT?!" Come out here and push the clutch in so I can make sure it is engaging!

Out comes the wife, she gives me the long suffering look, I get under the car, "now?" Yes dear, now. She pushes, still a bit loose; send the wife on her way and make some additional adjustments. This time I clear everything out of the way again, start her up, clutch....put in reverse...WOOHOO! Back her out of the garage!

Now, lets take her for a little spin shall we?! So I run her about 5 miles, get her up to about 50 and hit some stop and go traffic until I finally get back, about 10 minutes total time. Pull her in, leave her running and check under the car. All I got is an occasional drip with some splatter from the vibration of the motor. I still think she is coming from the #2 cylinder but it is very, very minor.

Well, before I re-attach the warm air guide and connecting tube, I plan to run her into work tomorrow which will be a good 15 mile trip that takes about 30 minutes on the back road. If I am getting just a minor drip then I am not going to worry about it. I'll just keep an eye on it and make sure it doesn't get worse. Should get me through the winter. I do need to make sure the HEs and the defroster work but I'll have to tackle that next weekend as I have a trip to Garmisch this week for a conference. No, not taking the teener, riding the bike down cause I'm a glutton for punishment! Should be a cold ride.

I am due to move in June of next year, she just needs to behave until I get her back to the states, once I get her back and have all my tools out of storage she can act up again. I am sure I'll have questions as I dig into the defroster and heating system, the saga is not over, just on temporary leave.

Time for a beer, especially since I am feeling much better and seem to be getting over the bronchitis.

just took my impeller hub off, if I hadn't put the center bolt back in before pulling it off it would have came flying off and hit me hard. hope that didn't hapen to you. Joe

Nope, that center bolt was solid.

So what does one learn when they head out at 0645 and the temps are near freezing? Well, a working defroster is a must especially when there is fog and the water from the windshield washer freezes on the window!

Other than that, the car did well, there was some smoke as the little bit of oil hit the exhaust and burned off but she definitely does not like the cold when starting in the morning.

Since there is no choke I have to pump the gas and try to keep her RPMs up enough to warm the engine but this is not an option at O-dark thirty when you are trying not to disturb the neighbors.

Couple of questions for the group.

1. oil tampon suggestions? Anyone ever rig something to catch minor oil leaks and prevent it from spilling on the exhaust?

2. warming the motor. Any suggestions to help this process or do I just need to put in a choke?

Looking for thoughts and suggestions.

1. Forget it. Put a flat drip pan under the car in the garage and call it good. Until you can repair the leak that is. Couple of times a year I take mine to the car wash and blast off the underside and then bring it home and clean up by hand. This motor I have now probably won't be in the car that long anyway.

2. Never ending battle with a carb'd type IV. Twiddle the throttle a little to get it going. Then I just let it idle really low until I'm sure oil pressure is up and then bring it up to 1-1.3k and let it run for a minute. Then I take off and try to keep it under 2.5k or 3k (at the most) for the first 5 minutes of drive time.

I had a feeling that was going to be the answer. Still only a minor oil leak when I got home after running the autobahn, the bigger problem now is the fact that the number 2 cylinder has developed a major exhaust leak! Will have to tackle that when I get back from Garmisch. It's gonna be a coooooooooold ride down on the bike! My buddy and I push out at 0730ish, it is 0636 and my outside thermometer is showing 28 friggin degrees! This ought to be fun!

Well, after a long Thanksgiving and some other things to do I finally got around to working on the exhaust. I ran the tap I got with the helicoil kit into the exhaust stud hole, no problems there. Then I put in the helicoil, hardest part? Getting the friggin tang to come out of the hole.

After putting the exhaust back on and starting to tighten down the nuts the one stud started to spin again. Damn! Since it is about 8 friggin degrees here in Deutschland and the outlets to the garage don't work, I called it quits for the day. Maybe I'll get back to it before Christmas, maybe not. We are going to Nurenburg tomorrow so I don't know when I'll have at it again. As it is, I also have to do some trouble shooting on my motorcycle as the start switch is not responding. Might be taking the bus into work for a bit.

Well, the weather was warm enough for me to tackle the teener again. So, I got back under her and tried to figure out the problem with the stud. Turns out the actual nut was stripped; crap.

Off to the basement in search of a spare nut, lo and behold I found one! Back up to the car, lets see now, carefully turn...yep she works. So it wasn't the stud that turned on me a few days back but the actual nut. So now lets tighten things down and see if we fixed the exhaust leak.

Start her up, crawl under, seems to be ok, I don't see any exhaust coming out of the #2 cylinder. OK, lets put the heat exchanger back together and take her out for a run shall we.

So I get it all put together and run it about 2 miles, she is shifting well and I don't smell any smoke when I stop. Get her back to the garage, pull her in and crawl under and have a look...Damn! Still leaking exhaust ! OK, I really need to take it into the shop and get it up on the lift to fix this problem and it will entail putting in new gaskets. I'm not gonna get it done here so lets see if the blower for the defroster and heater is at least working.

Well, I pulled the red lever, and pushed the controls over but it didn't feel like any air was coming from the defroster vent. Hmm, guess I'll need to trouble shoot that as well. Anyone got any recommendations on troubleshooting the blower system?

For now, she is driveable, I will just have to leave the windows cracked. Considering my bike needs a new battery I will be taking the Teener into work this week. The weather is also turning to slush which does not make a good motorcycle riding experience! I will just need to make sure I take her to a car wash each week and hose the underside down real well with the chemicals on the road to prevent icing.

So, it's been snowing here since last Friday and only stops to take a breather. We have at least 18 inches if not more and I have been driving the teener, now heat, windows cracked so the windshield doesn't fog up.

As mentioned earlier, the sucker wsa running fast because the cable was not quite right. I adjusted it the other day but it seems as if the pedal wasn't returning all the way back up; it was just shy about a mm or two.

Anyway, I drive to work today, when you get off the autobahn to go to Patch Barracks the exit has a light at the end, if you turn right you head downtown to Vaihingen. If you turn left, you head to Patch and a turn off onto Pascal strasse that takes you to Boeblingen; right in front of you is a big Audi and VW dealership.

As I slow and stop, the car is idling high again. OK, put it in neutral, engage the E-brake, now, reach down pull the gas pedal back a bit and voila! Idle goes down. Clearly I need to see what is going on there.

Light turns green and we creep up some more until there is only one car in front of me when the light turns red again. So, lets do the same thing...OOOOOPS! I pulled just a bit too hard and the pedal popped loose! Well, this isn't good OK, don't panic, try to put the pedal where it belongs and when the light turns green, pull straight into the car dealership to figure out what the hell just happened.

Well, I got her there, barely and cut the motor. I had my flashlight with me because I had to re-install the damn rear view mirror again this morning so I took a look down there. Well whatdya know, the pedal is a ball joint style set up; I would know this if I had done more work down there. At least thats a releive, it souldn't be too hard to fix. Well after a couple of tries, I got it lined up properly, pushed all the way down till it stopped moving and slapped the shit out of of it to make it go back into the socket! It worked!

So, start her back up and head to work. Hmm, the idle seems to have resolved itself as well Wonder if she just needed a mild beating? We will see if it truly resolved itself when I head home today.

Just thought I would share yet another misadventure of the yellow bomber

OK, phase 2 in this money pit and I need some help from the experts on this forum.

First, cylinder heads.

I have a 1.7 machined for a 2.0; how much benefit would I get if I actually throw in 2.0 heads? What else will I have to change i.e. exhaust system etc.

Transmission.

I want to convert to a side shifter, if I can find a 73-75 year tranny what else will I need to do to fit it?

Finally, fuel injection.

Which is recommended regardless of 1.7 or 2.0 heads?

I think the first project will be the tranny conversion then I will make a determination of what to tackle next depending on feedback to my other two questions.

What do you mean "machined for a 2.0"? Be more specific.
If the displacement is still 1.7 and the cam is near stock, stick with the 1.7 heads.

You need the later engine support crossbar along with the later center and outer mounts. You need the complete shift linkage and shift lever. You need a firewall bushing made for the conversion, since the rod diameters are different in that location.

If you have 2.0 heads you need to use the 2.0 FI runners since the bolt pattern is different. Then you also need the 2.0 plenum because the runners are larger diameter. Etc.
If the displacement is only 1.7 don't change the heads, and stick with 1.7 injection.
If the displacement is 1.9 or more, switch to the 2.0 heads and go with the 2.0 injection.