Today I finally got time to start tearing down the 3.6 for rebuild. When I pulled the fan, I got a nasty surprise.

Seems that #2 broke a rod bolt, and did a little damage to the engine case.

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I took that with my blackberry, and the battery was almost dead. But right after that, I was able to peel the top off the case like a banana peel. You can see the remains of the big end of the rod where it buried itself in the case next to #5, and that cylinder came down and jammed. I think all the pistons and cylinders are OK, and from what I could see with a mirror and a borescope, there is no damage to the crank! We figure that worst case it would have to be turned first undersized.



Now here is my dilemma. I have access to a 3.2 engine that welded the cams to the carriers due to lack of oil (clogged feeds) The bottom end of it is OK. Will a 3.6 964 crank fit into a 3.2 case? If so, I can build a 3.6 with the older style oiling system that fits a 914/6 better.


Anyone know the answer to that question?? Or do I have to tear down the 3.6 for the crank, and the 3.2 for the cases and find out for myself? I still really want to build the 4.0L motor!

Ouch!

Sorry to hear, I also got shafted buying a non running motor!

I dont know if they are interchangable, but It sure seems like alot of the parts are on the '95 and older 911 series engines.

Nope.. I didn't get shafted. I got the motor for free. But I want to see what I can salvage to make the 4.0L motor I really want.

I can find the bearing dimensions on a 3.2, but I don't have them for a 3.6.

Good luck.

Jim


1994 3.6 crank specs:

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Wow... ugly damage... but I think a bit of JB Weld should fix that right up!

Thanks!


That is exactly what I needed. I just did the comparison with a 3.2 crank All of the mains are the same, the rod journals are smaller. It's kinda like the difference between a 1.7L crank and a2.0. Both will fit in the same case.




Watch this board for the build thread, because this is going to be COOL!

A 3.6 case isn't available from the usual suspects????

Got a 3.2 that is sitting on a warehouse shelf that has seized cams due to blocked oil feeds. Bottom end is fine.

Plus, If I use the3.2 case, I can use my current motor mount and the engine mounted oil cooler. That means that I don't have to completely replumb my oil system to put the motor in.

Oh, like THAT's hard to do...it's plumbing fer Christ's sake.....take yer belt off, bend over, show some crack and have at it....%^B......

I see cases come up for sale from time to time on ebay. If the crank is still good it might be worth salvaging?

Cylinder stud spacing is different in the 3.2 vs 3.6 case. When I used 100mm cyls in my 3.0 case (same as 3.2) I had to bore the case. If you're wanting to go to 4.0 you should use a 3.6L case. The walls in the 3.2 aren't thick enough to take much larger.

Due to the stud spacing issue, the heads & camboxes wont interchange either. Best idea it to part the 3.2 for some cash and buy another 3.6 case.

If you broke a rod and busted the case, the crank want through a VERY large force. Better get it REALLY checked out for straightness and cracks - possibly xrayed??? I wouldn't build a 4.0 w/ a crank thats been though that kind of trauma.

Yep, that's good info. The stud spacing is key when doing a big engine

Before you turn down any 911 crank, make sure to check the price of undersize rod & main bearings first.

And you're are not done yet becuase.......?

Full time 60 hour per week job, second job on Sat to pay for the new motor. Wife's 914 is broken (and I take care of HERS first!), AX and TT events to run.....

Should I go on????

Wassa matter? A little short.......on time?

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HEY! Are youse guys distracting my mechanic from fixing my car????


Actually, he was hoping to use the 3.2 case just so he could say he did it (he does like the phrase "Frankenstein Motor"). To say Clay likes an automotive challenge would be an understatement...

Hey Betty, what's wrong with your car?

The mechanic can't reach the engine bay....

-Rusty that's the funniest thing I've ever seen from you!

Step ladder broken?

Buy a shop crane and a bosun's chair for that big ass garage.

Could make for extra fun on Saturday nights.

It all started with me doing maintenence... pushrod tube seals and a valve adjustment... then Dirk Wright showed up in my garage.


I pulled the heat exchangers to get to the pushrod tubes easier. When I put it back together, it had a slight exhaust leak. ( this was about a month ago.....)

So about 2 and 1/2 weeks ago, I pull the heat exchangers to repair the exhaust leak. Putting it back together, it snaps an exhaust stud. Cue the cussing and swearing. I remove that stud and replace it. I go to put it back together and ANOTHER stud snaps off. I try to remove that broken stud, and it breaks again flush with the head.

Now I am really pissed... I pull the motor, and remove the cylinder head so I can take it to Lyle Cherry to get the studs replaced. Had to wait a few days to get the head back. Cue Dirk Wright to enter. Got the head back, and put it back on. So I picked up a gasket set and crank seals. I strip the motor down to the long block to clean it.... god what a mess! Oil everywhere. I find the source of the leak. The fan end crank seal is so brittle that just touching the sealing surface causes it to crack!

So we have spent the last 2 Sundays cleaning the engine tin, the inside of the fan housing, the transmission, etc... In the process of putting it back together, Dirk Wright keeps showing back up. I replaced the alternator that had a noisy bearing, the alternator and AC belts, the positive battery cable, the shift linkage bushings, replaced the speedo drive assembly with a brass speedo drive to prevent future leaks, fixed the cracked mounting flange on the LH heat exchanger, and last but not least, rebuilt the entire fuel injection wiring harness. The one that was on there had major cracking in most of the wires. So I used another harness that someone had cut the air flow meter wiring connector off, and repaired it with bits of the old harness. I also put a new AC idle up solenoid (ok a fuel tank switch valve for a pickup truck), and after the engine was back in the car, cleaned the bottom of the engine to remove all the gunk accumulated from 6 years of driving daily.

Betty spend hours cleaning dirt and oil off the parts, and also off the underside of the chassis. She has cuts on her hands and dirty fingernails. But she is happy that her car is getting the attention it needs. Gotta love a woman who will help out with something like this.

It is back in and running, but I still need to find out why the AC clutch circuit only shows 9.2 volts, and do things like set the timing and adjust the shift linkage.

Is that enough????

Oh.. and Rusty.. you are one to talk about not being able to reach the engine compartment.... You, my friend, ain't much taller than me!


Gint.. thanks.. Betty kinda likes your idea!!

You better get her car done before the next AX, or Betty will be ticked.

That's too bad about the case. I guess that's to be expected on a "free" 3.6, huh?

Ok.. more pictures of the carnage....


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The good news is that I found a 3.6L case for cheap.


Stay tuned for the build.