I have Three questions for this thread:

1) What products, through experience, have shown to be the best in stopping surface rust and/or sealing?

2) There is TAR from the factory under the carpet. What types of products could be used instead of factory TAR? i.e.; Line-X, straight paint, sound mat, or stay with factory TAR?

3) Who has the Best to Adequate carpet replacement kits out there?
What experience with vendors and/or recomendations......please

I am tearing into and removing all the old worn and destroyed carpeting. I have come across some surface rust and flaking TAR. I would like to seal it up and set up some sort of barrier. There is NO major rust. Right now I am brass brushing it and shop vac'ing it out. Cleaning up nicely, but will need some protection.

Direction: I don't see me in the concours class with this car. I have a love of driving and plan on AX and Track days....as well as the car events such as WCR!

Just want to get some feedback on products that are out there. I read the threads on the electrical panel and see that there is a ton of experience that I can tap into! Oh yea...Don't make me the sheep on this one!


Fire away.....

1. Well, many will say POR-15 but there is better products out there. Most of the guys I know that restore classic cars for a living use a product called Zero Rust. It will neutralize the rust and become a paintable surface in one coat.

2. Since you have an original six you really need to do the tar. Keep it original.

3. It think Morph makes very good carpet kits. I'm not too sure who else does.

You may as well take up all the tar, wire brush it and then put a good coat or two of zero rust down before putting the tar back.

Even though you will not be going concours on this you will want to keep it so you can just switch everything back someday. Anything you change on it that is not original keep the original parts around. Your brother does this and it will benefit you in the long run.

POR-15 works well if you use it right.

you have to use their Metal-Ready first on the surface rust (similar to Zero Rust or Ospho) and then seal it with POR-15.
if you just brush the POR-15 over the rust, it won't work ...


anyhow, clean out all larger chuncks, then use a rust neutralizer of your liking, then prime and paint.

as for the tar, i'd say remove it, because most likely, you'll find more rust *underneath* !
Andy

It is extremely important to keep a 914-6 as original as possible.
1. we use the por 15 with good success, as was said there are other products out there but this one has proven to be great
2. we had special custom cut and fitted floor pan tar kits that exactly duplicate the factory parts made by dynamat for easy installation and factory look
3. We have ten big big rolls of the original factory duplicate loop carpeting being made in Germany that is identical to all 71-early 74 914 and 914-6 models. The 70 914-6 felt carpet kits are commonly available as well as the original factory carpet kits. Either we or autos international make acceptable after market perlon kits.

My gut was telling me to keep the SIX original as possible, and I see that is the direction most are saying. Phew and THANKS.

POR-15 keeps coming up and I have heard both sides; good and bad for that stuff.

Carpet kits will probably be one of the last things, but much needed.

I am following my Bro and keeping EVERYTHING I find in this car. It may look useless to me now, but in a few years of experience it could be the one piece of something that I NEED. I have a small zip lock of misc. items I found laying on the floorboard and in the trunks, i.e. rubber pieces/gaskets/screws..... Who knows, right?

Any more info or advice out there?

How about experience with POR-15........someone said IF you use it right? I have never used it, read about it. What lessons have been learned?

Thanks,
MR.242

i will come give you a hand if you need

I removed tar from passenger side and , surprise, there was surface rust under it. My thought on originality it to do nothing that cannot be undone easily. New tar IMO can always be added later. And someday I'll strip the driver's side.

Dr914, what do you sell the original 70 914-6 carpet for and what colors does it come in?

You need to remember that the tar does add some rigidity to the floor. Unless you car is a full racecar and you don't want the tar you should put something down. I don't have a cage so I wanted to add something to protect the floors after I did my rust repairs. I added the engman kit and then sprayed the interior with zero rust. Waited three weeks and then rhynolined then floors. Worked very well. Also comes up nicely if you ever want it to come up.

I hate to say this but:



I agree with the keep it original or returnable to original.

I like Eastwood's rust encapsulator but I have not done a side by side
comparison.

John

I put in that heavy sound insulating stuff with brand name that escapes me. Good enuf?

But for the life of me I really cannot visualize the rigidity vectors. Torsional rigidity would seem to revolve around the centerline tunnel front to rear. Lateral would seem boxed on each side. And longitudinal controlled by longitudinals, the tunnel and the whole chassis strength. I've never seen the 914 chassis rated, to tell the truth.

I can see a cage reinforcing in every plane. But a 2mm coating of tar in a valley between the structural elements? Make me smart.

I didn't say it adds a lot of rigidity However, if you stand on the floors with the tar and without you can feel the difference in the flex.

Camera?

Mr 242,

#41 was an original Southern CA car in storage in a garage the last 18 years. No Rust. Well no rust on any place I could find except when I went to town scrapping the pan and removing the tar and going at it with a pick I found rust on the pan in SOME of the low spots. As if the carpet got wet from rain. I have removed almost the paint on the car now and this is still true, no rust car.

As I had issues with a bad clutch tube, I decided to remove the pan and fixed the tube so it would never be an issue. I Por-15 in the center channel to rust proof it and did the same for the pan. I put the tar kit that I got George at AA. The pictures show that the pan just looked like it needed a cleaning. I jabbed at it very hard but I wanted to make sure that the metal was solid.

I say do what Andy says. Remove all the tar as it is most likely hiding under the tar. Not that it may be like my car was but if you do not stop the surface rust it will become like my old pan some day. I just do not know how long. Your 6 is a real investment.


Arrow shows the damage from people jacking the car in this area. Circle shows the repair of clutch tube with U Clamp from PO. Perfect new pan job all better now.

Bob
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment

Mr 242 you better get some pixs posted or you may get a beat down ........P.S Got crabs L.M.A.O