I want to prep my hell hole for painting. As you can see, both sides are quite nice. I tried a TIG welders brush, but I just can't get into the corner or seam to get the red powdery rust off. Remember, the passenger side has the battery support in the way of any power tool to fit well (though I do have a porting tool from my two stroke days). Does anyone have any preferred method or tool (brush)? Suggestions?

Also, has anyone used the NAPA/Permatex product in the picture below? I know many swear by POR 15 and Metal Ready and have little faith in shake and spray products, but I have had quite good results with this product in the past. Reacts with rust and turns black only on the rusted areas. Comments?

Thanks,

Andys

I've had good luck with rust-mort. it converts the rust also, for the mare metal around the area, use acid etch primer, it's more expensive but works well. Or good old POR15.

You're lucky, that rust is very minor and undoubtedly has not perforated the metal. I would either sandblast it or if I was lacking a sandblaster I'd scrape the worst of it with a screwdriver and sand it all out with 80 grit. Then feather edge the paint with 150-220, treat with your rust killer aerosol as directed. The next day scuff the area with a red Scotch-Brite pad or sand it with 320 dry and prime it, I'd use self etching aerosol primer, usually only available at auto body supply stores. Now you can sand the primered area and a couple inches all the way around with the 320 dry and paint it. Primer doesn't hold up very well at all, you'd be better off to put a few coats of the wrong color of paint than to wait too long.

Andy;

I don't remember if your car is on rollers or not, but here is what I'd recommend;

Roll it out in the driveway and sand blast that area (sand blasters can be had for cheap and you can get the sand at a masonry supply shop).

Then use SEM 39308 Rust-Seal. It's similar to POR15, but I've found it easier to locate (I've got some if you want to try it).

Wes V

I agree...sand blaster would be my first choice.
Get a speedblaster (awesome handheld unit)

Second choice would be a dremel with all the bits you can find...I have even used the remove handle to get in there.

Best by far is the sandblaster.

I am honestly tempted on the next one (I know there will be a next one) to just cut the firewall out and deal with the long from inside the car so I can get the tools in there.
The butt weld the firewall back in place...
Im not talking about cutting the whole firewall out, but a good 6 inch square access hole would make that whole area alot easier to deal with.

Rich

Steve, I'll be re-painting everything so I don't have to worry too much about local issues. I will prime with an epoxy etching primer (after local rust conversion coating).

Wes, yup car can be rolled. These are the only two spots on the whole car that has any sort of rust, so I'm not likely to buy a sand blaster. Also what I don't want, is to get sand wedged into the seam between the f'wall and the long. Thanks for the SEM offering.

Another question:

Once everything is treated and painted, should I consider a water proof seal of some kind? I've never read of anyone doing this subsequent to paint, but it would seem to me that sealing the seams with silicone sealer or something similar would help to avoid future problems and keep the water out (I personally don't like silicone much as any need for later finishing/repair/painting makes it nearly impossible for anything to adhere to the surface even after you've [tried] to remove it).

Andys

You don't want to use silicon due to it's not being "paintable".

I'd recommend 3M "Heavy Drip-check Sealer", #08531. It is paintable.

Have a bowl of slightly watered down dish washer liquid to put your finger in, to spread it around.

I'd also recommend opening up the hole in the engine tray that drains this area. As it is, the water has to jump up about a quarter of an inch to get through there. As a result, water will remain there.

Wes

naval jelly and plastic wrap.

then clean up and paint....

wish our cars were that good to start.

Wes,

I asked "subsequent" to paint with the silicone sealer or other products, though there is a paintable silicone by GE.

You're probably right, I should stick with automotive type sealers. So should I do the conversion coat, then etching primer, then sealer followed by paint?

Andys