Well as a lot of you know (even though I don't post often) I'm upgrading my 1974 with an 1987 3.2. It's in an the engine runs, but I haven't been able to source an electric thermostat that will turn the auxiary oil cooler electric fan off and on.

Mocal (aka BAT Industries) says they are on back order (over two months so far) and I'd like to start getting these little obstacles wrapped up so I can DRIVE THE THING!

Also while I'm in the HELP ME mode, can anyone refer me to someone who could make a metal "3.2" emblem in Porsche font to mount on the mesh above the engine?

THANKS!!

Mike

Find a thermostat switch from a car radiator thats the temp you need.
Oil is a liquid same as water so you should not have any problem.

I have a 3.2, so does John, and our Dad.

We all run a front oil cooler, also use a mocal thermostat.

Its hot as hell here. 95 degrees yesterday.

I drove 25 miles home from work at 4:30pm and the temp never went over the first mark.

The only time my car goes more than half way up the temp gauge is if i break the fan belt.

There is about 5 gallons of oil in my system and the combo of the cooler on the motor and the front cooler keep my cool.

Thats my experience. Do what you want but I would save the money for tires.

I run the 3.6L witout fans on the cooler. If i sit in traffic on a hot day, temps get up to ~220, never had it hotter than that.
Once i get rolling again, they'll dropp below 200. I can run at 180 on the freeway all day long ...
Andy

I run two 5 inch fans with a thermostat with my 3.6. I live in Sacramento which is considerably hotter than where Andy lives. The thermostat does no go in the liquid but instead has a probe that fits in the fins of the cooler. (from BAT) Has never gone above 210 even in Sacramento heat and stop and go traffic. It comes on about 188-192 deg and will run even with ignition off until the temp drops.

I started with no fans. However, it only takes one time here on a hot day and stuck on the freeway for a disaster and I decided to install the fans.

In the picture I circled the probe for the fan switch
Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

That's exactly what I want, but BAT says they haven't been able to get them (at least for the last two months). That's why I was looking for an alternate source.

Thanks for the picture. It's worth a 1000 words.

Mike

Any FLAPS should have an adjustable fan switch w/ temp probe
for electric fans or hot rod shop

FYI - Water doesn't boil out of oil unless it's 210. I see it often when folks brag about thier oil temp never getting above 180 and the oil cap, breather lines and some times air cleaners have bunches of that oily foamy crud all over the place.

200-230 is what you want to run.

I agree on your target temp range. However - water will evaporate at room temperature -if it is exposed to air-. This is an OK thing on early cars with vented crankcases where the steam can escape. Newer cars with essentially sealed cases have a harder time expelling water (or any entrained fluid).

Our 356 bretheren, who have an even greater issue with entrained water since their cars are typically driven infrequently and have a camshaft below the oil line (meaning they're in the water if there is any) have taken to removing the oil filler cap between drives. (leave a shop towel over the opening to keep bugs and such out...)

Just because water doesn't boil doesn't mean it won't evaporate...

(For thermal switches, go to www.McMaster.com and check page 554 of the catalog.)

Can't say I agree with you at all. For a million years car manufacturers used a 180 deg thermostats. Even today most are not at 210. Even 911 oil thermostats opened at 180.

You are probably correct on the desired temp for short trips but during a good drive at 180 degrees I can assure you the water will evaporate. If you don't believe me, put 3 or four tablespoons of water and oil on the burner and cook at 180. The water will be quickly gone.....

Ah yes, but see the above post about crankcases being sealed which can cause them to sweat even more trapping moister and while 180 WATER temps for WATER cooled cars might be okay, probably not for air/oil cooled cars.

I guess I shouldn't say my way is the right way. Just simply what I have seen.

My 914-6 runs 200-235 all the time and my oil is always clean and honey colored every 5k oil change. Never any milky stuff.

A crankcase is not sealed. If it were, you would blow every seal out of it. The newer cars are not "open to atmosphere" like the 60's generation of cars if that's what you are thinking. PCV valves and later vacuum ventilated crankcases pull fumes and vapors from the crankcase and no milk will be present as long as you avoid constant short trips where the car never warms up.

As for air VS water cooled engines, I would worry even more about high oil temps on air cooled since the temperature is so inconsistent, with those inconsistencies being significantly hotter around the heads and valves. These components are MUCH hotter than the oil temp already and I wouldn't want to aggravate that.

Not trying to generate an argument so if you are happy with 235 oil temps by all means run it. I'll stick with 180-200 but my trips are not short ones.

I recently talked to Jerry Woods about my oil temp and pressure and he told me that the 3.6L motors usually run between 180 and 200 when installed in a 993, so i'm right on target with my temps.

On freeway driving, i never get up to 200, even in the hot central valley ...

The motor seems just fine. The only time i had problems with the white condensation "sludge" was when i had the car sitting outside for the winter for weeks at a time without running. That's when i got condensation on the filler neck.

Andy

thanks Andy....pretty much what others have told me as well

How about something like This?

Or this...

Temp switches that thread into the coolant system are common. I built an oil cooler for my 914 that had a temp switch threaded into the fitting at the cooler. It was a 180 degree switch, but you can find ones that activate at higher temps too. And they're not expensive...

-Josh2

Hi Josh

Thanks for the link, but I already found and purchased a probe type unit at my local FLAPS. It's also adjustable to switch on at a user defined setting between 180 and 220.

Thanks again.

Mike

Maybe I am letting my 914 run a little warm then?

Sigh, I have to remember never to post advise. I know I should have worded it more carefully. Yes, crankcases are not sealed, but far from puting some water in a pan of oil at 180 and watching it go away.

I guess you can think about it this way. A crank case is essentially a closed box with breathers on it right? If so, you have pretty extreme temp diffs when run, not run, cooling down, outside temps etc. Soooo, sort of like cool anything around really warm anything you can get a little condensate if the outside temps are low enough...

Maybe I am just thinking differently. I run my 914 summer, winter, fall etc. Even if it's 25 degrees out, I'll drive it. Rainy whatever. I guess I have just seen to many milky oil caps in my short little life to want one on my 914 and running the temps a little higher keeps that from happening.

Sooooooooo, maybe the correct answer is; it like most all answers, depends on your cars set-up, driving habbits/styles etc.?

No?
Yes?
Maybe?

Can you post brand, model # and price please?

okay, so ignore the experience that I, Andy, John and old man flesburg share and spend your money willy-nilly...