The fuel injection is back on the engine and I installed a new double relay and fuel pump yesterday.

The pump runs with ignition ON and air flap moved by hand. I hear the double relay click when the key is put to the ON position. With key at the START position, the engine turns over and the fuel pump runs. But that's about it.

Please point me in the right direction for the next troubleshooting step.

Have you checked for spark while cranking? Check fuel pressure at the rail, you could have a swapped or pinched line. Is the single white wire from the FI harness is connected to coil terminal 1? With the key on check for power at the center terminal of the resistor pack. Report back.

First off, thanks for the advice. I made some progress tonight

1) There is a spark on all wires.

2) I installed a pressure gauge on the nipple on the passenger fuel rail. Operating the fuel pump via the air flap, no pressure! I checked for kinks in the fuel lines. Then loosened the clamp on the return fuel line in the engine bay and there was a relief of pressure. That determined the fuel lines coming out of the tunnel are reversed to normal. I swapped the rubber fuel hoses, checked pressure again getting around 30 psig.

3) White wire from the FI harness to coil terminal 1 confirmed.

4) Checked the coil resistor pack and found two of the wires had bad connections. Resoldered the whole thing and reinstalled.

The engine turns over and gave a brief glimpse of wanting to catch. I wondered if maybe the battery got low from all the cranking I was doing so jumpered a second battery. No improvement, just a few sputters but doesn't want to catch. I can smell exhaust so at least I know there's some combustion.

What next?

A few shots of starter fluid while you are cranking to get it running, firing and pulling fuel all the way through. When I first fired up my ljet it would just catch, sputter etc. Gave it a few brief shots of starter fluid to actually get it running and warm then it was fine. Could be the cold-start valve isn't pumping in additional fuel while cold.

Also, ljet is real finicky when it comes to air leaks to make sure all the rubber hoses etc. are on and not cracked. Especially check the big rubber bendable elbow that attaches to the AFM...look in the creases for cracks which can screw with you and give you big air leaks!

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I'v been told that starting the motor with a low battery could do damage to the ECU. Maybe put the batery on a charger.

Yeah I'll definitely charge the battery up. I don't know how electronics could get damaged by low voltage, but hey anything's possible.

Double check your firing order (plug wires)
1432 (clockwise)
Number one is closest to the fan when looking from the passenger side rear of the engine compartment (looking at the top of the distributor cap)

Rich

Thanks! I will try all these things out.

It occurred to me that I set up the static timing at TDC. Should I have set it at 7.5 degrees BTDC? Would that make a significant in getting the engine to start?

TDC should start the car.

Rich

Something is goofy with the way the PO wired up the ignition when it was set up for carbs. I have a feeling one side of the double relay isn't coming on. I will troubleshoot and see where that leads me.

It's running! Thanks to your input and suggestions.

It was a combination of poor wiring connections at the double relay, vacuum leak on the intake elbow, throttle bypass screw WAY out of adjustment (for carb setup I guess).

There was also a poor wire connection at the starter solenoid that was giving me grief.

Next I'll set up dwell & timing and take it for a spin.

Welcome to the world of the living!!

I love my L-Jet but those damn vacuum leaks will get you everytime. A few weeks back I noticed my idle was way low. My oil fill cap was about 1/8 turn loose so I tightened it up and the idle went back up. Sometimes it's something simple.