Hello,

As suggested in a pelican parts tech article, I've always had a microswitch that grounds out the tach signal...this prevents the sparkplugs from getting juice and has always been a good killswitch.

BUT...I recently installed a mallory unilite distributor and I haven't used the killswitch for fear that it will kill my unilite module. I know the basics about how this ignition stuff works but I do not trust my knowledge enough to give it a try.

Will this killswitch method still work fine? If not, what are you guys using as a convenient theft deterrent?

Thanks a bunch guys!

I just bought a killswitch setup for my car that comes with a alternator saver build in ...


Basically, when you cut the power to the battery while the engine is running, you get a voltage spike that can kill your alternator.

The killswitch i bought uses a 3 Ohm resistor to ground and when you flip the switch, the positive feed from the alternator is bled off to ground through the resistor.

Basically, it's two switches in one, one opens the battery circuit, the other cuts the ignition circuit and reroutes the alternator output to ground ...
Andy

where did you buy that? my experiance with unilights is they ARE very sensitive. i've dealt with several needing new moduals relating to volage issues. i wouldn't use it unless you o.k. it thru mallory.

Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productde....asp?RecId=1464


Andy

I've had one for years on my 914-6 conversion, and it works well. The alternator protection circuit is great to have. I run a crank-fired ignition, so I don't have any problems with a distributor.

I don't know what the shutoff switch would do for the ignition module however. I would check with the manufacturer before you destroy a module.

Brent
I would use a kill switch like Andy posted. Not only is it a good kill switch, it makes a great theft deterrent. Just remove the red handle and power to the car is cut off. I have mine mounted in the front trunk, so I remove the handle and lock the trunk.

I have one of these also. The only problem with shutting off all the power to the vehicle is that when you start it back up, you have to reset your clock and radio channels. Not a real consideration on a racer, but on a daily driver it is a pain.

On a daily driver you could run a hot wire with an inline fuse from the hot side of the kill Sw. or the battery to the "must have" devices that need a constant hot (radio, clock, car alarm, ect.).

crazy idea..., run a "fusable link" across the hot (from battery side of switch) to the other side of the switch. even when the power is turned off there would be current "as normal" to normal powered items like the clock, alarm ect. BUT... if some one either had an unotherized key OR attempted to hotwire, the excessive current amperage draw of the starter would be too great and blow the fuseable link. this would disable the complete car as the switch is designed to do. it would also eliminate extra wiring for the components you want to keep hot and any the possible power backfeeding or other issues it could cause. it's basically using the link as it was designed, to power up the interior, no more.

if the link where "blown" you would just key the switch on to drive. even if the link was blown the system would operate as it did before the link was added.

mike

Maybe I wasn't clear on the hot wire. Since things like a clock, pre-set stations on a radio, a car alarm, or any other device needing a constant hot get it from the wire that comes from the battery positive or the hot side of the kill switch.Which ever one is easiest to source from. I suggested a fuse link for safety reasons and it wouldn't hurt to run the hot wire in a loom.

Great suggestions guys!

I came up with a solution! I did some thinking and looking at electrical schematics, and found a wire that when cut with an inline switch disables the power relay in the engine compartment. It is the medium-sized wire of the three black wires attached to one end of fuse number 9. It disables ignition and the fuel pump. I have a small switch located inside my center console and mounted with a piece of aluminum.

Please don't post where you have the kill switch, kind of defeats the purpose of theft deterent, ya think?????

come on, he didn't tell anyone how to operate it...

I did a 3.2 Motronic conversion on a 914, and had to add 3 fuses for the Motronic system. Because the fuse block had 4 fuses in it, and the owner wanted a battery cutoff, I hooked the last fuse across the cutoff (they were mounted on the same mounting plate in the back trunk). I put in a 15a fuse, and told him to take the cutoff key with him when he left the car. Kept all the devices needing a memory alive when the car was off, and still would blow if someone even turned the key on with the cutoff key out.


He loved it.

Here you go. Description of how it works and diagram of how to hook it up. Remember, this is for my switch that has 2 switches build into one. The main switch *opens* a circuit while the secondary switch *closes* a circuit.

I also recommend using heavy duty rubber insulator caps on both of the main connections to the switch. You don't want to light up the night with arcing electricity ...

Andy

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

clay, this sounds like what i was thinking (my above post with the fusable link). no?

mike

Yes, it is. You can buy an inline fuse holder at FLAPS, and use it too.