ok so i drove the 14 this morning to ace hardware and it drove fine had plenty of power and everything. So i went to go pick my friend up to goto dinner and it started right up.But when i went to go it started to bog down, when i pressed the gas pedal it had like no power and took some time for some response. So i thought i was running low on gas. drove to the gas station put 3 gallons in and samething no change felt like i was running on 2 cyclinders. So i brought it back home let it sit for 2 hours went to start it and nothing! Then tried agian 15 mins later and got it to start after pumping the gas pedal, almost like it had carbs. The idle is at 5 or 6 when usually its at like 8 or so. But it also idles wierd it will idle then drop and almost die until i pump on the gas.

i popped the cap off and gave it a quick turn and the rotor turned so the distributor is good. I hear the fuel pump turn i when i turn the key. I checked all spark plug wires all were good and tight.

also i have a 2.0 with stock injection.

is my engine fried?

is it my fuel injection system?


What do i do?!?

please any help is awesome

Check your fuel filter for starters.

Perhaps your grounds for your injectors are corroded/otherwise bad. The injectors fire in batches: 1-3, 2-4. If it feels like you are running on 2 cylinders, this is an easy check. The junction block for the grounds is located on one of the case bolts on the top of the engine under the intake box. It should have an octopus of wires going to it.
Seeing the dizzy spin is not an adequate inspection. You need to see if there is any axial play in the shaft. You should not be able to wiggle the shaft back and forth in any appreciable manner. The spark plug wires being tightly installed means nothing as well if you are concerned about spark, you have to remove the wires and check for spark to the head. Given your other dirty ground problems, I would start with the aforementioned ground point and see if it improves.

I've only had experience with the L-Jet, but it does sound like it could be a fuel delivery problem. I've had a plug on my fuel-injectors pop-off on me before, leaving me with only three operating cylinders until I found the little guy. Not sure if that is happening here, but definately worth checking. Have you checked your fuel pressure? What is it?

Also, as Dr. Evil so evily (is that a word?) pointed out, before you rule out your ignition system you need to make sure that you are actually getting a good spark to all four cylinders. I usually snag an appropriately sized screw-driver and stick the metal end into the end of each spark-plug wire (one at a time) and then, holding onto the plastic end, I hold it close to the engine case and have someone crank the engine a coupe o' times. If your ignition is good you should see a pretty spark jump from the screw-driver to the engine case.

He is right.
i just put on gloves and hold the wire up to bolt holding the intake manifold on (but I have carbs.)

i like using a spare spark plug and aligator clip the plug to a ground. least chance of having a numb hand for a few minutes haha.

trigger points...

Eh, pussy

haha yeah i get zapped enough at work, i dont wanna get zapped at home too!

back to basics. fuel, spark and timing. If it was anything major - like a fried engine, you would know about it.

Take off one spark plug wire at a time while the engine is running. rpm will drop on a good cylinder. Won't change on a bad cylinder. If you have a bad cylinder remove the spark plug. If it is wet you have a spark problem. Dry is a fuel injection problem. If you have 2 cylinders bad with dry plugs then how they are paired will tell you the story - either trigger points or grounds.

thanks for all the help it's now fixed... i changed the fuel filter no change. then i went back to the engine bay and was looking at my driver side injectors and relized thier was no wires going to them, found them and reconntected them and it runs better than before!

the only problem now is i'm not sure if i hooked the right clips up to the right injectors..... i think i did any way to tell?


thanks for all the help agian!

Of course - that stuff is all documented here and in references like the indespensible Haynes and factory workshop manuals.

But don't lose too much sleep over it - DJet injectors are fired in banks (1 & 3, 2 & 4) which means that half of them are not synchronized with the firing sequence any way. it doesn't matter.

Try it one way, try it the other way, and stick with the way that works best until you can run down the proper reference.

yea i think i figured it out. to the wires and saw which one was the longer one and attached it accordingly... but when i had ti wired the other way it idled a lil higher. so i don't know which way is better

do you want to sit and watch it idle, or do you want to drive it ?

high idle sometimes means slightly lean, all other things being equal.

This is a road-test item - you are checking for part-throttle smoothness and midrange performance.

yea it was at idle and when i drove it. but after i switch it the idle dropped by about 50-100 rpms and really don't want to drive it until my shifter bushing kit comes in