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nycchef
how do you remove the fan hub to get to the front seal? the 914 manual says i need a special tool. i don,t have one, i don,t even know what kid of tool it is or why itis special. any alternatives? sad.gif
type47
my alternative was to get 2 steel plates about 1/8th inch thick (or thin enough to fit between the hub and the case) and kinda didn't matter the dimensions but there was stock about 1.5"wide and about 4-5" long. when you remove the fan there are 3 long, i think 8mm bolts. to remove the hub, take the 2 pieces of stock and one should fit under a screw hole in the hub and the other should fit under the other 2 screw holes in the hub. screw in the bolts into the holes in the hub until they touch the stock. the stock is under the hub, over the case: between the hub and the case. gently screw in the bolts to put force outward on the hub, probably alternating tightening each bolt a little at a time. the factory tool is a u-shaped metal piece that esentially does the same thing.
nycchef
QUOTE(type47 @ Sep 5 2008, 01:43 PM) *

my alternative was to get 2 steel plates about 1/8th inch thick (or thin enough to fit between the hub and the case) and kinda didn't matter the dimensions but there was stock about 1.5"wide and about 4-5" long. when you remove the fan there are 3 long, i think 8mm bolts. to remove the hub, take the 2 pieces of stock and one should fit under a screw hole in the hub and the other should fit under the other 2 screw holes in the hub. screw in the bolts into the holes in the hub until they touch the stock. the stock is under the hub, over the case: between the hub and the case. gently screw in the bolts to put force outward on the hub, probably alternating tightening each bolt a little at a time. the factory tool is a u-shaped metal piece that esentially does the same thing.

let me see if i inderstand this. the metal plates are a backstop , as you screw in the bolts the hub will push forward?
turboman808
special tools mean a chisel and hammer.
PeeGreen 914
QUOTE(turboman808 @ Sep 5 2008, 03:30 PM) *

special tools mean a chisel and hammer.

poke.gif That's dangerous.
nycchef
QUOTE(Phoenix 914-6GT @ Sep 5 2008, 02:33 PM) *

QUOTE(turboman808 @ Sep 5 2008, 03:30 PM) *

special tools mean a chisel and hammer.

poke.gif That's dangerous.

that's nate he is the poster child for dangerous.
r_towle
QUOTE(nycchef @ Sep 5 2008, 06:28 PM) *

QUOTE(type47 @ Sep 5 2008, 01:43 PM) *

my alternative was to get 2 steel plates about 1/8th inch thick (or thin enough to fit between the hub and the case) and kinda didn't matter the dimensions but there was stock about 1.5"wide and about 4-5" long. when you remove the fan there are 3 long, i think 8mm bolts. to remove the hub, take the 2 pieces of stock and one should fit under a screw hole in the hub and the other should fit under the other 2 screw holes in the hub. screw in the bolts into the holes in the hub until they touch the stock. the stock is under the hub, over the case: between the hub and the case. gently screw in the bolts to put force outward on the hub, probably alternating tightening each bolt a little at a time. the factory tool is a u-shaped metal piece that esentially does the same thing.

let me see if i inderstand this. the metal plates are a backstop , as you screw in the bolts the hub will push forward?


Yes, exactly zactly breath...

Rich
nycchef
let me see if i inderstand this. the metal plates are a backstop , as you screw in the bolts the hub will push forward?
[/quote]

Yes, exactly zactly breath...

Rich
[/quote]
so providing i pull this off, literally, should i assume that after installing the washer and the new seal the hub will just slide baqck on?
VaccaRabite
Or, you could go to your FLAPS and get a 3 arm gear puller for like 20 bucks and safely pull it that way.

Zach
VaccaRabite
looks like this, but three arms. I got mine at Autozone.

IPB Image

2 arm version might work as well, but 3 arm adjustable works more better.

Zach
r_towle
QUOTE(nycchef @ Sep 5 2008, 07:13 PM) *

let me see if i inderstand this. the metal plates are a backstop , as you screw in the bolts the hub will push forward?

QUOTE

Yes, exactly zactly breath...

Rich

QUOTE

so providing i pull this off, literally, should i assume that after installing the washer and the new seal the hub will just slide baqck on?


Yes, its a tapered fit that gets held in with the single bolt.
You can heat it to expand it a bit, but I have never needed to do that.
I cant remember the torque specs, but you really dont want to go over that spec...its a threaded hold in the end of the crankshaft.. not cool to futz up.

There is also a key, dont loose it.
Rich
r_towle
the special tool it a flat plate about 3 inches wide with a "U" cut out of the middle. You drop that plate down around the crank and use the bolts to push the hub off.

Rich
Cap'n Krusty
Good old fashioned "church keys" work well as "backstops" (your word), but ya gotta have the hardened ones. The cheap ones just bend. The torque on the bolt is 18 ft/lbs. The Cap'n
nycchef
QUOTE(Cap'n Krusty @ Sep 5 2008, 06:07 PM) *

Good old fashioned "church keys" work well as "backstops" (your word), but ya gotta have the hardened ones. The cheap ones just bend. The torque on the bolt is 18 ft/lbs. The Cap'n


gonna see if autozone has the tool. started to do it the makeshift way usiing some light metal but the bolt started to go through. got scared, gave up. thanks for the info will let you guys know how it pans out tomorrow beerchug.gif
rich
VaccaRabite
make sure you remove the big washer directly behind the bolt before you try pulling it.

Also, get some PB Blaster in a spray bottle and spray it down really good to make the job a little easier. They are under a lot of pressure. The first one I removed literally shot across the room when it finally popped.

Make sure that the bolt is threaded in all the way or it will bend. Put the "point" of the puller on the bolt. If you end up bending the bolt, let me know. McMaster sells them in 5 packs. I have 4 of them left over. :-)

Zach
Dave_Darling
Three nice thick fender washers work well. Anything that's decently strong and wide enough to spread out the load is great.

If you have a puller already, you can try that. But washers are cheaper yet than any puller. I think they're also easier in this case, because they'll hold themselves in place with no fussing.

--DD
r_towle
two fat flatbars, prybars...called the wonder bar...or as Cap'n said....church key.
That is what I use...one on each side..

Rich
nycchef
QUOTE(r_towle @ Sep 5 2008, 08:37 PM) *

two fat flatbars, prybars...called the wonder bar...or as Cap'n said....church key.
That is what I use...one on each side..

Rich


special tools humbug...3 5/8 washers damned thing flew out and landed in an ashtray. 914 world inguenuity at it,s best. thank you all piratenanner.gif
Cap'n Krusty
QUOTE(nycchef @ Sep 6 2008, 09:20 AM) *

QUOTE(r_towle @ Sep 5 2008, 08:37 PM) *

two fat flatbars, prybars...called the wonder bar...or as Cap'n said....church key.
That is what I use...one on each side..

Rich


special tools humbug...3 5/8 washers damned thing flew out and landed in an ashtray. 914 world inguenuity at it,s best. thank you all piratenanner.gif


Hope you didn't honk up the end of the case that retains the seal. BTW, be sure to replace the o-ring behind the hub. The Cap'n
JeffBowlsby
Do it once, do it right. I bet this tool is still available and I further bet a good P-car or VW parts shop has them.

Try http://baumtools.com/
dflesburg
They dont have any. I called them.

Nobody has them.

Need to find some High Carbon Steel (hard stuff) as the piece I made last night from mild steel bent under the pressure of the bolts.
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