How much flex is to much? I have one that flex 8mm ,I cut up any tub that flex over 14mm
Will a chassis stiffening kit fix that much flex (14mm)

Thank you for any info

covering up the hell hole is not a FIX!! And dose not stop flexing at ALL!

Where are you measuring this flex?

Corner to Corner?
Suspension points?
Doors?

The three places I mentioned have a variation of up to three feet in dimension so it really would make a difference where you are measuing the flex.

Given that, all cars flex, even new ones.

the chassis Stiffening kits was designed for race cars with really stiff springs that were cracking the outer longitudinal right at the rear shock tower. This is because the shock tower was not welded to well in that area and all the vertical load ends up on the outer long....mainly in one place. If its cracked there or flexing there, then yes it will help.

The longs also crack directly under the windshield (drop a plumb bob from the top edge of the windshield) and that area also cracks.
The Engman inner longitudinal kit will help fix that flex and will stiffen up the car quite a bit.

For the standard hell hole issue there is no way to do it half ass and have it last. You need to remove the outer long and inner rear fender and replace them with new metal. If what you have is no rusted to bad, you can buy an outer longitidinal overlay (not stock) that fits over the whole long, from the front inner fender to the rear suspension mount...
That is the best cure for the flex...adding extra metal.

Rich
Rich

measuring from Top of doors, targa or roll bar to windshield

All the cars I have seen flex in that area. At least the windshield frame moves a bit when opening and closing the doors...that is normal.

when the targa bar moves, its the inner long by the seatbelt bolt and back from there that is bad. Its double walled so when you replace it, you need to double wall the replacement...

Let me find a thread for you to look at.

Rich

So you are lifting the car where?
Transaxle
or lift donuts

take a look at the pics in this thread.
You can see the pieces that are available and they are typically all affected to some extent.

You dont need to buy all of them, just the bad ones.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...0&hl=heaven

I dont get as uptight about rust because of where I live. All the cars I have ever seen need work, it just comes with the climate.
Rich

And keep cutting up those CA cars. Everybody east of the Miss would love to have what you guys throw away. At least your helping the Supply (-) & demand situation.

T.C.

lift donuts

I have looked at over 200 cars and found 2 that did not flex you can find them in CA

Sure, you'd love to have them. But when someone offers one up, it always costs too much to transport it. Or cash flow is a problem. Or it's the wrong month. Or you have a doctor's appointment.

I've seen it time and time again, even back to when Brad on the old board was trying to get together a truck-load of decent rollers to take out East. Everyone was ga-ga over the idea, until they heard they'd actually have to pay a grand, or fifteen hundred, or whatever it was, for the shell. Then everyone suddenly dropped out.

And still we get people complaining about the "rust free cars" we cut up.

Hey, you want one--come out here and buy one! If we're chopping them up, we aren't going to be asking a huge amount of $$ for them. So all you have to do is get the car back east of the Mississippi.

--DD

That's how I got my car. started as california car went to Washington state where I bought it. and flew out to drive it home.

I'm good. but that was back when gas was still 1.69 a gallon.

I Have gotten at least 2 West Coast cars, so I have some ground to stand on. Well worth the transport costs. Now I can't speak for all the other cheap-smacks here.

T.C.