Got the car running great finally, Raby 2056, new webers, hex bar linkage.
Got the carbs balanced, it runs smooth and strong, BUT....
after running it for a bout 20 minutes the car will not return to idle, the linkage sticks with just a tiny bit to go before going back on the stops. It only happens when warm and takes just the slightest touch on the linkage to get it to go back?
Should I go with a heavier return spring? Not sure thats the best, seems to be covering up instead of fixing the problem.

What hex bar do you have? There's huge differences in quality of the bars ...

Andy

the problem is that the drop links are not on the same plain when looking front to back and or side to side.
This will bind the drop links (one of them)

First make sure they are both at the same angle side to side...first step.
Then find a place to measure to front to back on both the top and bottom of the drop link...the centerline of the fan shroud is good, or the rear of the engine bay (there is a vertical portion of the firewall at the trunk.)

Take a look at this link and you will see what I mean and how to fix it..
http://www.356registry.com/techinfo/repair...er_linkage.html

The exact same principles and solution apply to the 914...but this link has pictures.
rich

What about one of these.

Those do solve this problem nicely.
Also look at Triad setup for a bell crank solution.

There are also many different throttle plates that you can get from Redline with different offsets to aid even more in solving this.

I personally hate hex bar linkage...its always a compromised solution and I tried every one I could find...they all suck somewhere.

I think the bellcrank is the closest to a decent compromise but on a motor that stretches alot (expands in width when hot) you are still compromised with solid links of any kind.
I went down the road (when I had a race motor with aluminum jugs) of building several prototype cable operated bell crank systems and finally got one that work pretty decent, given my lack of machining abilities.

If I do another carbed type 4 I will probably send the prototype to a machinist I use and have him tighten up all the tolerances...
the cable setup never changed adjustments no matter how hot or cold the motor was.....and that motor I had would expand over 1/2 inch in width from cold to hot...amazing thing to try to figure out...

Rich

the strange thing is that it works fine when cold and even for teh first 20 minutes, then it starts binding?

heat makes it bind.
If its setup perfectly it wont bind.

Rich

ahh!
How do you account for the spring that is on both carbs, on one side the spring is on the front and on the other it is on the back creating a difference inthe offset?

Im not sure how to answer the question but if you look at the carbs and try to understand what they were made for (Alphas) then you will understand that the whole setup is one compromise to the next.

These carbs were never designed for the application, but adapted to the application.

If they were designed for this application you would not be able to switch the carbs from one side to the other...but you can.

Rich

Add a return spring? Weber tech manual suggests a return spring wethre you need one or not.

Zach

Check your throttle cable!

You could have it twisted around the clutch cable. I've also seen them split at the firewall, fall apart and bind up there.

I've got little springs on each carb- from the bootom swivel up to the base plate and another, bigger spring pulling the throttle cable end toward the firewall.