The last 3-4 times I've started my car when the engine is cold, it has taken quite a few cranks for it to start and when it catches it idles pretty low (500 rpms) for a few seconds below climbing up to idle (900 rpms).

At no time does it idle any higher, which leaves me to believe the AAR is stuck closed. I recall that the engine would idle higher (aprox. 1500 rpms) for a minute or two below falling back down to idle. Once the car is started, it runs fine.

I haven't started to check anything yet, but the AAR is where I'm looking first. Anyone have another suggestion?

pull it out and hook it up to a 12v source and see if it heats up. If it does make sure you can see through it, then throw it in the freezer and make sure it closes.

Mine was doing the same thing so I put a little penetrating oil in it and cycled it through the 12v source again and it seemed to work better afterwards.

Good luck

You need a tune up.
Yes I would agree the AAR will make it idle higher when cold.
I have not had one on my car in 8 years...it starts warm or cold (all winter) on the first crank.

Tune it up, you missed something like dwell or timing or valves...

Rich

I will check all those but once the car gets up to idle, it runs fine (idle, cruise, WOT).

At what temp does the cold start valve operate?

I also don't have an AAR and my car starts promptly. But the cold idle is a bit slower than warm.

The CSV activates at near freezing temps. I don't have a CSV either.

Its pretty low, something like 35-40 degrees.
Its directed by the ambient air temp sensor.
That is one sensor most people dont think about...its just under the plenum on the passenger side on the front of it...its just sitting out in the air..

Rich

Ok, still having the same problem. I adjusted the valves. The dwell and timing were fine. Checked the plugs and they look fine. Cap, rotor and plugs replaced in March this year. Tightened up the alternator belt a bit.

I pulled the hose off one side of the AAR when the motor was cold and was able to blow thru it so I don't think it is stuck closed. I should be able to rule out the cold start valve as it has been over 50 degrees in my garage.

I noticed this morning that if I give it a little gas when cranking it starts better (although I believe the manual says to not depress the accelerator when starting).

Could this just be a sneaky vacuum leak?

I would be more inclined to look at the fuel pressure not holding.

Try a simple hotwire of the fuel pump and see if you switch that on in the morning (you can just use your finger and open the flapper) if the pump changes tone....its goes from no load to full load...lowers the sound of the pump once its pressurized the system.

I know this was the first sign of Abels pump starting to fail...the first start was tough.
After he replaced that pump...it started up on the first crank.

When you turn on Djet, it primes the pump prior to turning over the motor.
With Ljet is primes the pump while turning the starter....
I thought that was the override part of Ljet to prime up the system.
If not, you are relying on the pump to maintain full pressure until the flapper door gets opened up once you start it the next time...

I would look for fuel pressure dropping issues.
Get a gauge installed inline (you need one anyways)

Rich

I do have a gauge, although it's not permanently installed. I'll throw it on and check the pressure while cranking.

Where would you put one inline in the engine bay? I searched around the web and could only find this from the UK with the wrong psi range.

Click to view attachment

put it on the pressure side of the fuel rail at the passenger side of the car. Just put it right inline.
I think you will want to see what the pressure is before you start it in the morning...then while cranking...then while running.

In a perfect world all three numbers should be the same...but they wont be...

Rich

Hope you get this figured out Chris because the symptoms are exactly the same as mine.
I don't think it is a vacuum leak - that would lead to hight idle would it not?

A vacuum leak would cause a lower idle, or a stall. If I slowly unscrew my oil filler cap (introducing a vacuum leak), the idle will go down and eventually stall. The AAR, when open causes a higher idle because although more air is getting into the plenum, there is still no vacuum leak.

I'm going to check the fuel pressure at different states like Rich suggests. I'm also going to re-re-check for vacuum leaks.

It only has to run for another month or so until I take it off the road and the 2.0 D-Jet goes in.

well then....just warm it up for a month....geez


Rich

is it supposed to do that? i'm really confused. That just doesn't sound right.