Ok, so I've had my 73 2.0L running for 4 months as my daily driver. Now I'm having some starting issues.

When the engine is warm, I turn the key and get a click noise from the starter... and that's all. Have new ground strap on transmission, good ground cable at the battery...

There is a little funkyness going on with my turn signals and emergency brake light... brake light general warning light is always blinking. And the turn signals usually give one click in the right direction (usually at double brightness on the indicator) then they sort of short out and both turn signal indicators blink dimly.. although the actual turn signal light seems to work normally. I might have something backwards in my dash instrument panel. Other then that- the car seems electrically ok.

Where would you start on the starter problem? Stuck selinoid? Low amperage? Time for a hot start bosch kit? The battery has been getting warm as well while driving. Been swaping out voltage regulators and alternators... currently it runs at 14 volts possibly overcharging the batteryh the best regulator and alternator I could find (rebuilt).

14 volts is ok for normal operation.

Check and clean all +12V and ground connectors and terminals especially on the battery. Assumption is you cleaned the mating surfaces for the ground cables with sandpaper to make sure you have good conductive surfaces.

If it were me, I would start at the starter. Get your voltmeter with clip leads and clip on the small yellow wire to the solenoid. Clip leads clip onto the terminals so you don't have to hold the leads in place. Can be purchased at Radio Shack or equivalent.

Check voltage at solenoid when cranking or trying to crank the engine. Should read close to the battery voltage. If not, could be ignition switch or other connectors under the dash which have resistance and cause a voltage drop. If good voltage at the solenoid, then maybe time for a new starter.

I get the same "no=start feature" sometimes after a long period of use. i'm pretty sure it is a combination of ignition, and starter. When the sarter gets hot, it's resistance increases. I just keep putting in new staters every few years

I recently replaced my flasher that had the same wierd symptoms too. I used a VW Bus unit and it actually works correctly for the first time in my20 year association with the car.

The situations are completely unrelated.

I just install a Ford solenoid (just over $10) and forget about it. 15min job.
(BTW to me the bosch horn relay is a POS)

My bus has one, my 914 has one and my 67 bug with all 100% new harness, switch and starter will also get one.

I'm installing one in a customers bug today........

I went through all the same stuff. Ended up being the ignition switch. The hot start relay helped but it would still fail sometimes. New switch and all is fine.

Bosch relay or Ford solenoid?
Switches can go but my money is on the bosch relay.....

But what do I know....

It was a bosch. I am willing to bet the Ford one is better. The relay is out now and it is working. I may reinstall the relay as a preventative measure. I think the relay helps save the ignition switch in long haul. But what do I know?

Use the ford solenoid, I have one that's been on my bug (and is now on my bus) since the late 80's.

Sorry about the "But what do I know..." crack, bit testy today, this AM had a now ex-customer telling me how to do a job...had to tell him how to have sex with himself. Rather enjoyed that part.