AvalonFal
Oct 19 2008, 02:34 PM
In getting ready to remove the shift rod to replace the seal leaking trans oil into the selector rod cover, I came across this on my '74... I haven't seen a bolt like this in any parts diagram. IIRC, where the bolt is should be a small allen screw. I guess the PO stripped the original screw and drilled it. Anyone see any problems with this setup??
Paul
Click to view attachment
degreeoff
Oct 19 2008, 03:06 PM
well for one it would most likely be a softer metal and therfor liable to shear under a hard shift. Second if it isnt tapered on the end to a point then it will misalign. NOW that being said if ya get yeahs a grade 8 bolt and grind it down to a tapered point where it fits in the hole in the rod (making sure you dip it in water after you grind it to keep the temper you should be fine OR just ask around I am sure ther are a few rod ends hangin around here some where?
Josh
Cap'n Krusty
Oct 19 2008, 04:03 PM
Metric bolts don't come in "Grade 8"....... What you would want is a 10.9, and then you'd have to machine the correct tip on it. The picture shows what appears to be an 8mm bolt, so the threads are probably still the standard size. I would go for the correct Allen head set screw. The Cap'n
zambezi
Oct 19 2008, 07:56 PM
To me the picture appears to have a square head set screw like you would find on the shift coupler in a beetle. I'm just not sure it is as long as it should be. I think the tapered bolt of the 914 is longer and has a longer taper than the beetle set screw. I have not examined them side by side but that is what I remember.
JIM
Joe Ricard
Oct 19 2008, 08:05 PM
While you are in there messing around replace the plastic bushings in that coupler. I can see a gap in around the pivot pin.
AvalonFal
Oct 21 2008, 04:37 PM
Here's what the bolt looks like next to the proper cone screw. Luckily, the bolt is an M8 with the same threads as the screw, so the coupler threads are still OK for a new cone screw. One good thing about the bolt was that it was lot easier to get out.
Paul
Click to view attachment
Dr Evil
Oct 21 2008, 04:46 PM
Definitely replace the plastic bushings in that coupler. That is some ugly gap. Also, what is up with your fuel pump location?
How is that working for ya?
markb
Oct 21 2008, 05:25 PM
Didn't some 911's come with the bolt?
ws91420
Oct 21 2008, 05:42 PM
QUOTE(AvalonFal @ Oct 21 2008, 05:37 PM)
Here's what the bolt looks like next to the proper cone screw. Luckily, the bolt is an M8 with the same threads as the screw, so the coupler threads are still OK for a new cone screw. One good thing about the bolt was that it was lot easier to get out.
Paul
Click to view attachmentThat looks very familar I wonder in both of our PO's had work done at the same place
southernmost914
Oct 21 2008, 05:47 PM
QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Oct 21 2008, 06:46 PM)
Definitely replace the plastic bushings in that coupler. That is some ugly gap. Also, what is up with your fuel pump location?
How is that working for ya?
Pictures don't lie.
Steve
AvalonFal
Oct 21 2008, 06:12 PM
QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Oct 21 2008, 06:46 PM)
Definitely replace the plastic bushings in that coupler. That is some ugly gap. Also, what is up with your fuel pump location?
How is that working for ya?
Yep, new bushing set coming in the mail. Shifter bar moves about 1/4" back and forth in the coupler. Preparing to replace all the bushings is how I found the bolt.
Fuel pump was relocated by a PO (did a lot of relocating - battery to trunk, ECU to side wall where battery was). So far, no problems, but I'm a little concerned about the pump being so exposed to road debris.
Paul
sww914
Oct 22 2008, 01:03 AM
That bolt is less than ideal but it's one of the best DAPO repairs that I've seen. It is far superior to nothing.
The main problem that I can see is the lack of the little plastic locking plug in the stock set screw. A small drop of gentle loctite would solve that. Small, Gentle. Not a quart of red loctite.
Bartlett 914
Oct 22 2008, 11:50 AM
What did the shaft look like? It looks like the taper is a little too short. Did the threaded portion bottom out? If it did, I would replace the screw. The hex head is a little nicer. Place the cone point in the hole in the shaft and see how deep it sets. The threads should not touch the shaft.
URY914
Oct 22 2008, 12:57 PM
I use a bolt on my race car's coupling. I added a nut to it so I can tighten it down like a lock nut on the coupling. Its been working for me for years.
mattp
Oct 22 2008, 03:02 PM
I have a bolt on mine also. I did not replace it and it has workled fine in the numerous times I have disconnected and recnnected it over the last few months.
RoadGlue
Oct 22 2008, 04:42 PM
Look what I found last weekend while replacing my shift bushings. See what was missing:
URY914
Oct 22 2008, 05:45 PM
You can't replace a bushing if it is not there in the first place.
You'll be adding a bushing.
sww914
Oct 23 2008, 12:55 AM
Brett W
Oct 23 2008, 08:11 AM
Its funny that this comes up now. I mentioned the bolts in a tech session at the Ramble Thursday night. The last few cars I have worked on have all had the bolt repair instead of the proper tapered set screws.
There is no reason to use red loctite. Blue will work fine.
ClayPerrine
Oct 23 2008, 08:18 AM
QUOTE(Brett W @ Oct 23 2008, 09:11 AM)
Its funny that this comes up now. I mentioned the bolts in a tech session at the Ramble Thursday night. The last few cars I have worked on have all had the bolt repair instead of the proper tapered set screws.
There is no reason to use red loctite. Blue will work fine.
I got to have fun harassing Rusty about the bolt in the shift linkage on the "Purple Nurple".
SGB
Oct 23 2008, 12:57 PM
Carefull Clay, that sounds like a Sesame Street call sign...
(sorry- its an inside joke)
ClayPerrine
Oct 23 2008, 01:23 PM
QUOTE(SGB @ Oct 23 2008, 01:57 PM)
Carefull Clay, that sounds like a Sesame Street call sign...
(sorry- its an inside joke)
Well...
He didn't want to be Grover, so this is all I can come up with.
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