My 75 steering column has side-to-side slop. I presume there are bushings/bearings in there that wear out??? If so can these be easily replaced without any special tools?

On some there was a metal bushing, on others it was a plastic bushing ... The replacement is a 928 part.

Requires removal of the steering wheel. Bushing is split so it will fit over the steering shaft. Available from Pelican Parts.

There should be a thread here on it's replacement.

The bearings themselves have no reason to wear out unless they were damaged by a PO in some manner.

Thanks Ron!
I see Driving Source sells a repair bushing for $16 free shipping via ebay

Pelican 12.75 free ship

Mark,
Let me know how this works out for you. My 75 has the same issue.
thanks,
Arvin

Hi Arvin!
After reading a number of threads, many who inserted this upper bushing fix also ended up either replacing the upper bearing or using shim material get all the slop out.

I went ahead and ordered the bearing and bushing...will see.
PS No free ship on Pelican

I replaced the bearing on my 75. This bearing may be different from other years so I cannot speak about them. The bearing I used is for a 911. Part number 911 347 771 02. I actually got these by mistake for something else I had ordered. This bearing does not use a shim and it worked perfectly. There was another issue adding to the slop. The housing opening for the bearing was a little oversize. The bearing would move around easily. Before installing the bearing, I used a center punch and made 3 or 4 spots on this surface. This helps center the bearing. I then used Green loctite to glue the bearing in the housing (red could also be used). There is no slop in the wheel anymore

The whole column or just the shaft? Sometimes, the 4 bolts come lose and the whole column moves.
Andy

Me three, I've got a '75 also... same thing. Anyone have the 928 part # to give to Pelican?
Bruce

I just bought one on my last order. p/n 928-347-739-02-M100

Perfect... Thanks!
B

How many years are the same? Mine is loose and it's a 72.

Item Name Item Price Quantity Item Total
--------- ---------- -------- ----------
911-347-771-02-M100 $23.75 1 $23.75
Upper Steering Shaft Bearing, 914 1.7/1.8/2.0 1972-76, Each Brand:
Genuine Porsche

----------------------------------------------------------------------
928-347-739-02-M100 $12.75 1 $12.75
Upper Steering Column Bushing Repair Sleeve, 914 1.7/1.8/2.0 1972-76,
Each Brand: Genuine Porsche

This is the bearing I used on my 75 but I did not need any shim /sleeve. Is the steering shaft a different diameter for early cars?

deleted

Today I took apart the steering and found that a large part of the slop was because of the one allen bolt facing downwards under the column was loose. Since I had it all apart I replaced the bearing, which tightened everything rather nicely.

One thing I learned is I didn't need to purchase an upper bearing and the sleeve. For those who are contemplating this easy repair, the bearing is just about the same price as the sleeve. The inner part of the bearing is plastic and thus wears down after a zillion miles...thus the sleeve. The advantage of the sleeve is you only have to pull the steering wheel. The sleeve pushes down inside the sloppy plastic inner part of the bearing tightening things back up.

However with just a little bit more work, you might as well just replace the bearing and not use a sleeve.

Glad i could help!
Andy

Yes, you were and folks, you can get to that one allen bolt with a trimmed allen wrench.

I went the sleeve route but that didn't 100% fix the steering wheel slop. It turned out the majority of play was from in the bearing itself. There was too much radial movement between the bearing races. So I bought a bearing at the Porsche dealer(cheaper than any of the online shops).

I found there was also some minimal gap between the bearing and snap ring and also the bearing and steering column. So I used a very thin washer as a shim to take up slack behing the snap ring. And put a dozen or so dimples into the steering column with a punch. Installed the new bearing and put the whole shebang back onto the steering shaft. Now there's no play whatsoever and the steering wheel feels real nice under the hands now.

My bearing makes a grinding noise whenever I turn the wheel. It's nice to know that the bearing is so readily available, but I'm really confused on the whole shim thing. Some pictures that helps me understand would be really helpful.

There's a picture of this bearing on Pelican Parts, the part number is 911-347-771-02.

The metal sleeve replaces the white plastic insert when it wears out. You don't need the sleeve if you install a new bearing.

Are you sure you're hearing the noise (a squeak or scraping noise) from inside the steering stalk? There are several U-joints that can also squeak as well the lower bearing under the fuel tank. Since you are going to be replacing the upper bearing, you should probably take the steering linkage out and thoroughly grease the U-joints (as represeted as number 34 in the picture below).

I found that most of my steering squeak was actually coming from the bearing (represented as number 26), which is located behind the fuel tank. Please note that there is no current replacement for this bearing or the rubber mount the bearing sits in. However, it seems that this bearing rarely wears out.

Thoroughy cleaning this bearing and re-lubricating the bearing eliminated the squeak-scraping noise for me.

Click to view attachment

It's kind of a PIA to get to, I had to remove the fuel tank, lower the steering rack and remove the cover bolt (item 26 & 27 in the diagram) to get to the bearing. But it really made a difference in reducing the annoying squeaking noise.

Eric Read

I have the same situation on my 76. If I have time this weekend I'll take it apart and snap some photos.

Thanks for the heads up with the bearing/sleeve info.

Tony

I put the sleeve in and re-packed my bearing. This worked pretty well however I still have a little bit of slop. If you can fix it with just replacing the bearing I would go that route, but I was under the impression that if you bought a new bearing you still needed a sleeve...

The new bearing includes a sleeve. It's white plastic with ridges on the inner surface to ensure a tight fit.

OK, So I removed the steering Wheel, removed the 4 screws holding the turn signal switch assy. Unplugged the connections, and cannot remove the switch assy to get to the bearing and bushings??? what next ???? The book talks about removing the Stering column??
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment

If you unplugged the back of the unit then you just need to push on the plug to get the whole thing to pop out. I am assuming as I havent messed with the 75-76 with the switch in it, but it should be the same.

I'm Un plugged on both plugs, I'll go give it a try. I just don't want to break anything. I'll keep you posted.....

Thanks Doc

Tony

75 is the same...just unplug the electrical assembly from below where the steering column and lower dash meets.. The unit wil pull right out.

The main point I want to make is that you should push from the bottom and not just pull from the top or your switch will come apart as it looks like it did in the picture.

don't forget to disconnect the two washer hoses from the wiper/washer switch. to remove the whole ignition cylinder unit, you need only to remove additionally the circlip on the column shaft, disconnect the ignition switch plug, and loosen the single allen head bolt on the bottom driverside of the column (75).

im in need of a new bearing too...still have to order one.

Yep, Got it out. I did figure the washer hoses were holding me up for a bit, then pulled them loose and the whole assy came out. I had to pry the bearing out 1/2 a mm at a time but its out. The bushing and bearing are in decient shape. I guess I should have ordered a replacement and had it on hand and I'd be done by now.

Heres the big question....

how hard is it to get the plugs back in after it's all back together??

I just replaced my bearing the other night. Just like Bartlett 914 experienced, the new bearing wasn't very tight in the bore and added some slop..i ended up using some pieces of shrink tubing around three points around the bearing (something real thin - cut pieces and split them into strips) Worked perfectly as I did have to do some tapping with a rubber mallet to get the bearing in. Installed - ZERO slop!

found it much easier to attach the ignition harness and washer hoses with the column disconnected by removing the four mounting bolts.. the two bottom harnesses are easy to plug back in either way...

Now i'm having issues with my wipers!

Well to open up an old thread .....

I just recieved the replacement bearing and sleeve. Now that I read the thread over, I didn't need to buy the sleeve Oh well what else could I use 12 bucks on . I see the sleeve is a quick fix for a worn plastic inner on the bearing if needed.
Is it worth removing the plastic on the new bearing and using the metal sleeve from the get-go? Not to mess with Porsche engineering.

TI

Hey Tony...been there, done that. I thought the same thing...since I was in there, should I remove the plastic and insert the metal sleeve. Then I said, it lasted 30+ years last time....nope, if it works don't fix it.

Put the sleeve in your toolbox next to the other parts you ordered incorrectly...oops, that's my toolbox.
Mark

I also ordered the sleeve and bearing for the 914 but haven't gotten around to doing this but it is exactly the same on a 72 super beetle I am presently working on and I used the sleeve on the bug and it fixed it. I haven't checked but a bug supplier might be a cheaper alternative source. The bug turn signals don't cancel and I noticed the 914 stuff in the pictures are not the same turn signal parts in the 72 bug and figured out the turn signal spring was missing and one of the little plastic parts it hooks to is broken. I guess I will look more closely at the 914 when I get time as it's so loose it makes the horn honk. On the bugs I have taken apart the metal sleeve is actually installed from the bottom and has a lip that holds it in place. It seems like if you shove the metal sleeve in at the top it won't have anything there to hold it down inside the bearing. Also on a bug I found a felt sleeve above the metal sleeve that was saturated with oil that lubricated the bearing. Vws must not have the plastic part as I haven't found one on several I have taken apart for parts.