The 914-6 oil tank isn't flowing enough oil for me. We are hoping that is the problem with my current setup.

So.... what's the little fu.... err..... thing worth?

I am gonna go with an aftermarket tank I guess.

- Brett Smith

I dunno what it's worth, but if it's good and clean I may take it off yer hands for ya.

yeah...theyre junk. ill dispose of it for you

new ones were said to be 800+. (price jump was recent iirc)

I think a couple of NOS ones sold recently on rennlist for 450 or so.

Dunno what a used one will go for. But Brad will.

kim.

yeah..
people doing conversions are always in the market for a used one..

I'm interested too..

I'm also confused... how is it not flowing enough oil for you?
perhaps a larger return line?

brant

If it's not rusty, bent, or gummed up, I'll give $450 and reasonable freight charges.


Perry Kiehl
800-867-4712
a914man@netease.net

Hey,


I could use a 'spare' too.

But back to your concern, the factory tank does not 'flow'
enough oil?

Please advise..

Thanks,
P

I would like to hear more about this "flow" issue also. We use stock tanks with 3.6 liter engines with NO issues and front mounted oil coolers. I know Jerry Woods makes a slight modification to the stock tanks but this is usually only done with engines running Carrera cup/GT3RS oil pumps that would suck a golf ball thru a garden hose.

FYI: we run -20 line on the suction side to the engine from the tank.


B

That was a suggestion from John Forbes and his lead mechanic over there at Black Forest. They both said the same thing, and didn't talk to each other about it.

Basically, what I gathered, there is too much going on in there for it to flow everything right. Plus, the 3.2 creates more crank case pressure than that thing was designed with, since I am having a problem with blow by, kinda.

Now, I have to look up alternates. Any ideas?

- Brett Smith

Yeah... sell the little fu.... err..... thing to me.

Huh? Aftermarket is going to be worse...

I agree about the blow by... but we get the same thing with a 8KRPM 2.0 6 cyl. You have to get creative about the blow by and vent it into the trunk into a secondary catch can of some sort. I cant count how many times I have seen a K+N small filter on the breather side of the tank (worthless) all they do is OIL the engine compartment and make it mess. I vent them into the trunk on a long line. The longer the line the better. On our 3.2 liter 8k RPM engines we have to run the line 13+ feet to the front mounted tank and we STILL have some minor blow by issues with a pro built heated dry sump tank.

The factory used single large air cleaner with the breather line going to the bottom of it. When you remove it and place the K+N's and watershields on it.. you lose whatever small amount of intake vaccuum that helped pull on the line. The factory air cleaner also had a small "dump" that allowed oil to accumulate and literally drop on the ground behind the car.


B

914-6's are now illegal to operate in the city of Palo Alto!

Ha ha.. wouldnt surprise me (although the cops left us alone when we had the shop there).



B

On the subject of air filters/air cleaners....

I'm going back to the stock setup.

My vent line right now leaks directly onto the line that goes from the bottom tank to the side of the motor. It slides along the line and onto the headers. Yeah, not good.

So, the catch can idea. What do I do, just empty the thing whenever it gets more full than I want it?

Thanks a bunch guys, and Brad.

- Brett Smith

Yes. Just check it every once in awhile (like when you change the oil). It wont fill up quickly. If you get really creative drain it back into the engine.


B

K&N now makes a big cylindrical filter for the original air cleaner housings. that's what i'm using on my 911E right now.

BTW - for anyone considering K&N's in 'modern' engines - i wouldn't recommend them for anything with a MAF.
cleaning (followed, not infrequently, by replacing the MAF) is a common issue on the VAG cars with MAF's.

i don't want to get into the does it/doesn't it filter issue - but the downstream entrained oil causes problems with MAF's.
my MFI is too primitive to care :-)

Rich is 100% correct. This is a big issue on Boxsters and 996's. Lots of failures reported and all them have one thing in common (K+N filter)


B

I got a pic here some where of my hi-tech catch can.
Trailer tra...occupant engineering at it's finest.

I disagree. That particular prooblem oly exists when the Owner dosnt know how to oil his filters (read over oils them) and sho nuff, sucks excess oil into and onto the MAF hot wire.

I installed a catch can as an auxillary between the line that goes from the top of the motor to the tank. I haven't gotten a chance to check it yet, to be sure it is working. But, hopefully, it is.

I will post pictures later.

- Brett Smith

i guess you can blame the factory as the "owner" 'cause we hear of failures all the time from VW owners who have -never- cleaned and oiled them. the (newer) VW MAF isn't really a hot wire sensor - it's more like a thick-film sensor and is evidently fairly fragile. likes to overheat with not much in the way of oil film.

i agree completely that too much oil makes the problem much worse.

That *might* work. The problem with the K+N is: it lets oil OUT. It will mist the engine compartment with a light haze and every piece of piece of road grims/crud will stick to it.

Let me know how it works. I normally install something similar on the tank outlet.


B

I have the same alloy Canton bottle/breather on the tank vent line. The tupperware option just didn't seem...right. (JP and Malm haven't quite infected me with that trailer occupant bug yet).

I had never seen one on the other line.

Ah, but mine is a Moroso one. So that's good for what, 10 or 15 RWHP?

- Brett Smith

Yep. you got us spanked...LOL


B