QUOTE(jimkelly @ Nov 2 2008, 09:40 AM)
I am running and will continue to run a narrow body car with skinny tires (i like sleeper look).
i still think you should pursue a kit for those looking to do a 930 box inverted. are you saying trunk has to be cut out, and if so, hopw much of it, a pic or sketch of expected cut out area would be great, will reinforcement be required to be welded in?
thanks
jim
If you are planning to stay narrow body I would strongly encourage you to consider sticking with a tall ratio 914 trans. The gearing is almost identical to a 930 and with a billet intermediate plate and a thorough rebuild it should hold up very well for most people. There's always someone out there who can find a way to break it, but that goes for almost anything. For those more "prone to breakage", then maybe going to something stronger makes more sense.
You don't have to baby the 914 trans, but you don't want to drop the clutch at 4000 rpms or go drag racing. Keep the shock loads to a minimum and apply the power smoothly. You also need to start out with a properly rebuilt gearbox. That doesn't mean just throwing some synchros at a tired 200k mile trans and flipping some gears around. It means the parts bill is going to hurt a little and the person assembling it should check everything, including resetting the ring and pinion for maximum strength. The payoff is less chance of turning big parts into little parts.
It's also a good idea to build the car around the transaxle you plan to use. It sounds funny, but transaxle options range from $500 to $15,000 or so. If you're going with the 914 trans, then build a higher reving motor with smaller displacement. The torque will come on a little later and be more trans friendly.
I've had a lot of V8 914's and right now I'm installing a built 914 trans in my heavy tube frame car with a very healthy 383. Conventional wisdom says that's suicide, but I really don't anticipate any problems; although I wouldn't necessarily recommend it to just anyone. I'll build the trans properly, and I'll drive it properly. On the track I wouldn't really expect to lose any time. Smooth is actually the fastest way around the track and I'll definitely have to be smooth to keep it together.
My LS6 car is getting an inverted 930 and it's going to be a more complicated installation. Like wbergtho, it's going to be getting 500hp, wide tires, and be built to handle anything I can throw at it. In a car like that it makes sense to skip right to the 930. Between the increased cost of the clutch package, 930 trans, shifting solution and fitment I would anticipate it easily costing an extra $5000 vs. doing a very nice tall ratio 914 trans for under $3k. Keep in mind that's doing an inverted stock 930. If you flip the ring gear and shorten the bellhousing you're looking at a couple thousand more for a difference of perhaps $7000 more.
Yes, that 500hp car with the 930 will be faster than a 350hp car running the 914 gearbox, but it's also probably twice the cost. It's definitely not twice as fast and they'd both induce perma-grin every time you get in.
I wouldn't ever anticipate there being a "kit" to install a V8 and inverted 930 in a 914; it's just too invasive. All the clutch components are the same, and the inverted adapter is readily available. That leaves you with actually hanging everything in the car. Not too hard with the short bellhousing, pretty tight with the long. It's really not all that difficult though.
That side shift 930 Wilhelm posted is certainly an option, but it's probably a $10,000 gearbox by the time you get it in the car. I'm certainly not trying to talk anyone out of building maximum effort cars, I just don't think everyone needs a $10k gearbox to have a fun and reliable V8 914.
For the guys that plan to put $5000 into suspension and brakes, $10,000 into an engine, maybe $10,000 into a nice chassis, then going to a high end trans makes perfect sense. Most others can spend half as much and have just as much fun.