Talking about the front here. The car is on stands (duh!) and I want to get the rotors off to replace and the calipers to clean and do up.

On the calipers, is brake cleaner safe for the seals? Seals were done not too long ago and look good. I want to clean it all up and paint them; plating and rebuild is too much lettuce. Can I really soak it?

...and, how do I get the "bearingcup/cover? off? Geez it seems like it's welded in there. Tried rubber mallet, hammer and pick...

I am assiming that i need to get in there to get the nut off that opens up the rotor.

sorry no pics yet.

sometimes heat helps to loosen things.

There are two basic approaches. The one shown in many owners' manuals is to use a round rod - like a 1/2" drive socket extension - and place it between the hub and the ridge in the cup (like sideways...). Whack it with a brass hammer.

What (eventually) works for me is big adjustable-joint pliers ("water pump pliers"). Grab top and bottom, wiggle. turn, repeat as required.

Some good penetrating oil like PB Blaster or KROIL to help break any dissimilar corrosive bond couldn't hurt.

If you've got a slide hammer and the right hook end that might work for you.

You don't want to soak if the calipers' were rebuilt recentley. This could cause the rubber o-ring inside the caliper to swell and it would essentially freeze the pistons. (It wouldn't really freeze it but it would be a PITA to get out). Break cleaner would work fine or if you had a bench grinder with a wire wheel that would do the trick. After words, wash with a mild detergent or rubbing alcohol. Paint with some etching primer and finish with caliper paint.

Regarding cleaning the calipers: BE VERY CAREFUL WITH BRAKE CLEANER. Use short bursts with the brake cleaner and have compressed air standing by. Even brake cleaner can be harmful to the brakes.

These solvents will distort the rubber if used in excess. Brake cleaner is similar to carb cleaner except, it's a bit milder.

If you really want to clean them up I would say to try to gingerly take the rubber dust caps off (we're talking fronts here correct?) Once those are off you can be fairly liberal with the brake cleaner and a wire brush. If they are stock 1970 varieties then take off the snap ring and gently pull up the seal.

If you contemplate the rears, be careful of the rubber dust seal directly under the handbrake arm. Do not ever use liberal amounts of brake cleaner on the rears. Brake cleaner can get to this seal and buckle the seal. No remedy except a "full" rebuild at that point. Same applies for the rear dust seals as the fronts.

Echoing the other Eric here... do not soak them in anything.

Finally... I hate caliper paint.

Thank guys, i got the cup off and rotor; taking that corroded shield off too...and off it stays.

I too hate caliper paint but they look like crap. The can of paint I have squirts like all hell. It can shoot a pinpoint stream 20 feet. Is it a defective can?

Can I just use black or gray engine enamel? it sprays better.

...oh and is regular axle grease ok? How do I clean the bearings?

How do you throw on that beautiful coat of zinc? And, where would you purchase? I know this may be a trade secret but I'd thought I'd ask as I prefer the zinc to caliper paint. Eric

'best' is Swepco 101. (use rubber gloves - the moly WILL stain anything it touches...)
Next up I prefer Mobil-1 grease.

Clean them with a solvent wash. LET them air dry. DO NOT spin them with compressed air no matter how much fun it looks.

Zinc gets electroplated. don't try this at home. If I wanted something besides bare-metal, I'd probably use GunKote applied by airbrush. GunKote comes in many colors including a nice stainless look. It is a thermo-set polymer coating.

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Yeah? Well it was the only way to keep those stunning re-plate & rebuilds looking like they did & do, out of the box, that you sent me! Of course I'm talking about hi-temp clear coat E!