Need to weld in new jack posts and support plates with the quarter panel intact. I have the old removed. It looks like once I weld the post to the long I won't be able to fit the plate over it? Is it possible without cutting into the quarter?

My new support plates don't have a drain hole. Should I drill one? I don't see water getting in there if all four sides are sealed up good.

Make two cuts downwards from the hole for the post and bend down the tab. This gives you the clearance to install the support over the post. Bend the tab up and weld it once the support is installed. I would drill a hole so primer, POR15 or whatever could be sprayed inside to protect the metal left bare from welding.

Thanks for the tip.

What about welding a short, smaller post(stud) to the long, then welding on the support, then slide the post through the support and over the stud. It wouldn't be welded to the long but the stud would give the support. Guess you would lose a little depth when sliding in a jack plate, but I never intend to use them.

Ed, I know this would be hard to describe BUT.....

The jack support piece...the pyramid...
On the original one its welded to the top flange of the long.
How do you get up in there with the fender in place???
Can you do it or do you just do the sides and bottom really well (which would hold it, just not seal it.)

Rich

That's a good question. I was just planning to weld the sides and bottom, and smear a bunch of seam sealer across the top. If the top can be welded I would also like to know how it's done.

Working thru the wheel opening you can get to most of the top, not easy but can be done. I've found removing the old one more difficult than welding the new. Rather than trying to weld the edge of the support make a row of holes and do plug welds. Then use seam sealer.

What about the side and bottom welds? Should they be plug or spot welded or should I weld the whole seam?

I have found plug welding to be the best way to ensure good contact and replicate the factory spot welds.
Its also alot easier to control the heat with plug welds cause you just doing one....then move or wait a bit...

Rich

I'm glad I checked this thread cause I'm about ready to replace the jack posts on my 76. I was wondering about how you guys get the top welded in place. Looks like I'll try getting through the wheel well and finish up with seam sealer. Seam sealer is my friend.

So I read through all the articles I could find over the last year and maybe the post is eluding me but I could not find where anyone had removed the top half of the jack post plate. Reading this thread and seeing at least Ed had been there and done it I decided to give it a go.

Well after 30mins or so I removed the remanants of the top half of the old jack post Yep it can be done, I am a believer

Earlier tonight I went and bought this tool, mainly for removing some of the harder to get at spot welds on the engine sheet metal. It allows you to get at all but two or three of the welds although I took the BFH and large screwdriver to most of them.

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Anyway this felt pretty good.

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Nothing an attachment on the die grinder won't smooth out.

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Kudos to this thread for the motivation.