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Full Version: Horn issue, 71, no relay, 12 volts at horn button, why?
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BRAVE_HELIOS
Hello fellow teeners. I am having some horn issues!

I have a 1971 914 (no horn relay) with one stock horn. I recently aquired a dual horn (hi/lo) setup from a 1984(?) 944. There are two connection wires coming out of horns (horns wired in series?), and the two wires coming from the cars wiring harness. I connected the two wires from the horns to the cars harness. The horns will not work. I decided to take a voltage reading at the wire connected to the horn button and it shows full voltage (13.5). I don't think I should be getting any voltage from this wire... it's a ground wire. I also used a wire/voltage probe on the two connections by the horns. With the key to the on position, I had full voltage going into the horns and full voltage coming out of the horns (and heading to the horn button). I know the horns work... I connected them directly to the battery and they sound great. Any ideas on what's going on here? idea.gif

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messix
the horn button grounds the circut, that wire should be hot. check the horn button it needs to ground when pushed
BRAVE_HELIOS
QUOTE(messix @ Nov 9 2008, 10:09 PM) *

the horn button grounds the circut, that wire should be hot. check the horn button it needs to ground when pushed



I forgot to add that when I do try to ground the horn wire, the engine rpm's drop to the point where I think it wants to stall.
messix
QUOTE(BRAVE_HELIOS @ Nov 9 2008, 10:22 PM) *

QUOTE(messix @ Nov 9 2008, 10:09 PM) *

the horn button grounds the circuit, that wire should be hot. check the horn button it needs to ground when pushed



I forgot to add that when I do try to ground the horn wire, the engine rpm's drop to the point where I think it wants to stall.

ummm you got problems... that circuit is not work right.

sounds like its going direct short. and i bet the horns are not hooked up o the factory circuit, there should be a relay
BRAVE_HELIOS
QUOTE(messix @ Nov 9 2008, 10:31 PM) *

QUOTE(BRAVE_HELIOS @ Nov 9 2008, 10:22 PM) *

QUOTE(messix @ Nov 9 2008, 10:09 PM) *

the horn button grounds the circuit, that wire should be hot. check the horn button it needs to ground when pushed



I forgot to add that when I do try to ground the horn wire, the engine rpm's drop to the point where I think it wants to stall.

ummm you got problems... that circuit is not work right.

sounds like its going direct short. and i bet the horns are not hooked up o the factory circuit, there should be a relay


Troy,

I looked at the wiring diagram for a 71. I did not see a relay. One wire goes from the horn button to the horns the other wire from the horns to #9 fuse then to the fresh air blower.

Could I run a new protected hot wire to the horns and circumvent the rest of the circuit (to the blower)?

Thanks.
messix
QUOTE(BRAVE_HELIOS @ Nov 9 2008, 10:48 PM) *

QUOTE(messix @ Nov 9 2008, 10:31 PM) *

QUOTE(BRAVE_HELIOS @ Nov 9 2008, 10:22 PM) *

QUOTE(messix @ Nov 9 2008, 10:09 PM) *

the horn button grounds the circuit, that wire should be hot. check the horn button it needs to ground when pushed



I forgot to add that when I do try to ground the horn wire, the engine rpm's drop to the point where I think it wants to stall.

ummm you got problems... that circuit is not work right.

sounds like its going direct short. and i bet the horns are not hooked up o the factory circuit, there should be a relay


Troy,

I looked at the wiring diagram for a 71. I did not see a relay. One wire goes from the horn button to the horns the other wire from the horns to #9 fuse then to the fresh air blower.

Could I run a new protected hot wire to the horns and circumvent the rest of the circuit (to the blower)?

Thanks.

had to think on this again.... you should check all the conections from the fuse panel to the horns [there are some splice locations along the route ithink], if there is a corroded conection it will draw a very high current that would explain alot.
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