I finished disassembling my new suspension components and then mount one of the rear trailing arms onto my car to see how it fits...awesome. I went from paper thin, solid rotors with steel trailing arms from 1969 with the smallest calipers know to man, to vented, cross-drilled 24mm rotors with aluminum trailing arms from '87 with large calipers.

To put it into perspective, the new rear rotors and calipers are bigger than the stock front rotors and calipers.



Just in case anyone was wondering, I thought I would show the differences between the steel trailing arms from '69 and the aluminum ones from '87. The geometry between the two appears to be very similar with exception to the angle on the shock mount.

Whatcha planning for the front brakes?

Oh, my, god. Becky, look at it's brakes.
They're so big. *scoff* The car looks like,
one of those race guys' cars.
But, y'know, who understands those race guys? *scoff*
They only drive it, because,
it looks like a total pimp mobile, 'kay?
I mean, her brakes, they're just so big. *scoff*
I can't believe it's just so round, it's like,
out there, I mean - gross. Look!

hehe Sir Mixalot rocks!

Britain,

Since I gather you are changing form steel to alum, I wonder if you could give me some tips as to how to tremove the hub from the bearing.

is there a special tool?

The front brakes are staying stock....yea right!

I am going from this:





To the matching Carrera front rotors and calipers:






In regards to removing the hub, that is where I got stuck last night. I couldn't get the large nut off the end of the spindle. When I do, I can send some pics on how I did it.

-Britain

Britain,
Just a tip for the castle nut....


I used a cv bolt and screwed it through the rear stub axel until it met with th metal, this prevented it from moving while I unscrewed the castle nut.
I then used a impact wrench (I think the torque value on the csatle nut is 240lbs or close to it) it still took a while for the nut to break with a good impact wrench but after it finally broke I removed it and the stub axel came out with a couple taps of a hammer.

See the other thread for hub /bearing separation.
It seems brute force is necessary
I'm gonna give it another go later tonight with a big finger smashin hammer
we will see how that goes

I use an old 911 rear torsion bar and a 3lb. sledge. The fat end of the t-bar sits over the end of the hub where the stub axle slides in.

See... I tell ya guys, we're dying for a 911 board that is this cool. I hope they continue to let us hang here (we do have teeners as well...)

Nice tip Eric, I just happen to have one of those to beat on

Here's mine BTW... If we post enough pictures of this, we'll effectively force Hertzog into spending more money

How did you accomplish that look? Did you media blast it then clear coat it? That is the look I am going for also.

-Britain

I wonder how much slower they are going to make your car? There is a reason thatr the 912E had soild rotor. Steve

I don't understand...why?

-Britain

Weight.

B

Add a little more horsepower to the mix and you will need a little more stopping power.

-Britain

first - no 'T' ...

next - aluminum bananas are already on the list. but i can only do one end of the car at a time and the front is coming first (so i can get the 'S' calipers back on, among other things...)

most of the front suspension upgrade bits are inbound as we speak. i'm having to cheap out (initially) and i'll be cannibalising the 914.6 of its front antiroll bar (it's a nice one, and paid for). donno what i'm doing on struts yet - was supposed to have group-buy Bilstein pricing a while ago, actually got a call yesterday saying it'd be in an email - nothing yet. i may have to use my big-brake Boge struts with inserts...

if the struts -do- work out, i believe they're threaded for coilovers so that might be the answer to my torsion bar questions.

at the back - everything needs to be done, and it's more than i can deal with just now. so i'll start with being able to steer the car where it's supposed to go, and work out keeping the back behind us on the track ...

Sorry Rich, hard to remember name spelling from what's left of my memory. I was close thought (proud senior moment)

Britian,

Glass bead blasted. Not coated yet but a friend advised a urethene clear. I may go that route to help keep them clean.

Eric,

Bead blasted and clear powder takes a lot of extra work when blasting to get a consistent finish, but when done, it looks awesome.

Almost forgot, it will also make the part a litle darker than it does before coating.

I may just leave them and hope they stay clean...

that's what the factory did, and look how well it worked for them ! :-) ...